Failure to Proceed...

SimonR · 20th May 2007, 16:18

Well, that didn't take long!

My new S-Series VP has cut out and is refusing to re-start. I've checked the fuel pump, dashpot and that it's getting a spark too, it just won't start. Originaly I thought it was flooded and have tried leaving it / putting my foot to the floor while cranking.

I'd only just started it after it had been parked over night and while I was sorting the sat nav in my mate's drive the idle gradually dropped until it cut out altogether....

I suspect a carb/auto choke problem, but can't get it started. One thing that I've realised is that the vacuum switch is broken, but that shouldn't prevent it from starting, should it?

The RAC are on their way but I'm sure it'll start first time when they arrive!

Oh, what joy.

SimonR · 20th May 2007, 18:20

Gah!! Damn it!

Turns out that it was the autochoke. The RAC man just unscrewed the dashpot (to let more air in) and it started first time.

Still I learned something new I suppose.

Must replace the O-Rings, get a new vacuum switch and reset the fuel mixture....

E_T_V · 21st May 2007, 08:43

Yes unscrewing the top off of the carb and turning it over with your foot to the floor is a quick and dirty way to get it started. Looks like the RAC man has seen a few monty/maestros before! Its an old trick but a very very useful one.

ChrisM · 21st May 2007, 08:46

I'll remember that one myself for tomorrow morning when my autochoke plays up again

Simon · 22nd May 2007, 10:58

Mine used to do that too and I used the same cure! I replaced the carb plus the vac switch and used Viton o rings and it is now running sweetly. I'm looking forward to seeing your car!

SimonR · 22nd May 2007, 11:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simon

Mine used to do that too and I used the same cure! I replaced the carb plus the vac switch and used Viton o rings and it is now running sweetly. I'm looking forward to seeing your car!

Yeah you must see it v. soon. I've found all the CDs that you gave me in about 2000 so you must have them back.

I think that my problem was mainly caused by a broken vacuum switch and dodgy O-Rings. The Vac switch has been renewed and just as soon as I can be bothered to remove the PAS pump I'll do the O-Rings, too.

It's quite a nice car, really, I'm just getting used to it and the wily ways of its gearbox now. I keep finding blemishes on the paint work that turn out just to be marks that wipe away. I love it when that happens...

The combination of gold over grey with beige leather and tinted windows looks really special I think.

ChrisM · 22nd May 2007, 20:10

Well I tried this trick in the car park at work this evening, and it worked a treat! I really must get my O-rings changed though. I have a spare pair though, so will get it done on my next day off...

When I've been starting the car from cold it fires after about 10-15 seconds of turning over and then just churns and stutters... is this just likely to be the autochoke stuff, as it runs beautifully once its going!?

G Force · 23rd May 2007, 10:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisM

When I've been starting the car from cold it fires after about 10-15 seconds of turning over and then just churns and stutters... is this just likely to be the autochoke stuff, as it runs beautifully once its going!?

Have you tested the vacuum switch is ok on your car chrisM? It could be the choke O rings like you say or the HT leads also.

Gary

SimonR · 23rd May 2007, 11:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by G Force

Have you tested the vacuum switch is ok on your car chrisM?

Yes - My car did exactly this when the Vacuum switch was broken. It's fine now with a new switch fitted.

Can you suck air through the single pipe on the front of the switch as Gary's described elsewhere?

ChrisM · 23rd May 2007, 11:25

Good thinking Gary, I have a couple of spare ones (I assume they are the same for S and A series!?)

I've not tried it yet Simon, but will check it when I get chance. Thanks guys

Simon · 23rd May 2007, 12:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by SimonR

and just as soon as I can be bothered to remove the PAS pump I'll do the O-Rings, too.

I took my carb off to do mine, The PAS pump gets in the way if you are going to perform your usual stepper screw removal dodge. (Gets in the way when you replace the oil filter, too!). Fitted 2 new carb gaskets upon replacement. You might have a couple left over from a spare head set perhaps?

Quote:

Originally Posted by SimonR

The combination of gold over grey with beige leather and tinted windows looks really special I think.

Yes, an almost ideal (and rare) combination of hues to my mind (and taste) which worked similarly well on the Rover 200s and 800s of the day.

G Force · 23rd May 2007, 12:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisM

(I assume they are the same for S and A series!?)

Hi ChrisM the vacuum switches are physically the same on S & A series but the internal jet sizes are different.

If you do have a faulty vacuum switch on your car it would be far better to fit a good A series vacuum switch as a temperary measure than leave the faulty one in place though.

The one you want is a LZX 2292

Gary

ChrisM · 23rd May 2007, 13:43

Just to avoid confusion, I'm talking about an A series car with the problems, not an S series - it is S series ones that I have spare! I will check the current one out though.

That said, it would account for a lot on my S series engined car, so suppose I ought to check that too

G Force · 23rd May 2007, 14:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisM

Just to avoid confusion, I'm talking about an A series car with the problems, not an S series - it is S series ones that I have spare! I will check the current one out though.

I see, sorry I did think you were talking about your S series but no matter as the syptoms of a faulty vacuum switch are the same for both engines.

It is a good idea to check both cars like you plan to. especially if you are experiencing poor starting & cold running and also poor mpg.

Funnily enough the S series vac switch works pretty well in the A series engine and would probably be fine as a permenent replacement, where as the A series switch is not a great success in the S series.

ChrisM · 23rd May 2007, 18:11

Thanks Gary

I have just replaced the vac switch on my 1.3L, along with all the vacuum pipes with bits I had spare (in fact I made my own for the spurrs off the vac switch out of braided fuel hose!). I also changed the stepper motor O-rings at the same time. Henry runs like a new car now

The only other thing now is that the choke stays on far too long - I'm guessing this is a faulty temperature sender, as the temp gauge never gets above 1/4. If I get this changed it will be more or less sorted, other than the oil leak!

Thanks again,
Chris

G Force · 24th May 2007, 14:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisM

The only other thing now is that the choke stays on far too long - I'm guessing this is a faulty temperature sender, as the temp gauge never gets above 1/4. If I get this changed it will be more or less sorted, other than the oil leak!

Good news on the success with the carb

The temp gauge problem could be a faulty sensor as you say, or there could be an open circuit in the wires from the sensor to the fuel ecu.

To test whether it is the sensor or the wiring disconnect the plug from the coolant sensor and connect the two wires in the plug together with a modified paper clip or similar, the gauge should now read hot and the high temp warning light should flash, if this happens suspect the sensor. If the gauge stays at a 1/4 then suspect a break in the wires.

Also firstly check that the temp gauge stays at a 1/4 when running stationary until fan cuts in. If the gauge reads normal to hot when stationary then the thermostat is faulty.

Gary

BikerGran · 24th May 2007, 22:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisM

The only other thing now is that the choke stays on far too long - I'm guessing this is a faulty temperature sender, as the temp gauge never gets above 1/4. If I get this changed it will be more or less sorted, other than the oil leak!
Chris

Quote:

The temp gauge problem could be a faulty sensor as you say, or there could be an open circuit in the wires from the sensor to the fuel ecu.

To test whether it is the sensor or the wiring disconnect the plug from the coolant sensor and connect the two wires in the plug together with a modified paper clip or similar, the gauge should now read hot and the high temp warning light should flash, if this happens suspect the sensor. If the gauge stays at a 1/4 then suspect a break in the wires.

Also firstly check that the temp gauge stays at a 1/4 when running stationary until fan cuts in. If the gauge reads normal to hot when stationary then the thermostat is faulty.

When Doris's temp gauge showed low - it was low! Simple replacement of thermostat did the trick.