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5th May 2006, 09:59
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Hastings
Posts: 110
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Rusty Holes
Please see attached jpg of nice hole near my window. I hope I wont be pilloried for this not being on my Maestro, but its a caravanette and I cant get in behind the Ole - any ideas how to plug it please?
BJ
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5th May 2006, 11:42
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 113
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Well We may me able to help if there was an attatched picture hehe
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5th May 2006, 11:52
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Hastings
Posts: 110
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Can you see a jpg now? Bit strange this, Manage Atachments>Browse to file>Upload>
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5th May 2006, 15:33
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Blackpool, UK
Posts: 155
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if its not structural, then rub down all the rusty bits that you can get too, and perhaps use some kurust or similar on it. prime if in a zinc based primer, and then get some body filler and just fill it, then rub down, prime and paint. bit of wire mesh underneath might make applying the filler easier.
make sure you get as much rust off as you can, as it will eventually just blow the filler out, or rust around it, and you'll have to start again until there is no metal left.
__________________
Cars:
GHW 715X - 1982 Austin-Morris 95L (Mini van) 1.3 - garaged
E426 CHJ - 1987 Austin Metro 1.3 L Auto - was mint, now rusty
G967 SAP - 1990 Leyland Daf 400 2.0 - camper
T679 DOB - 1999 Rover 200 Vi 1.8 VVC - nippy
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5th May 2006, 16:51
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 113
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Wow now that a hole lol. Im not expert but i would not fill that i would clean it up treat it and weld a new peice on
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6th May 2006, 08:07
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Hastings
Posts: 110
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"Bit of wire mesh underneath might make applying the filler easier"
Regret its the "underneath" that makes this Ole so tricky, being a caravanette I cant get to the Ole from the under or from the inner. Ive considered removing the window but I think that would raise a hole new set of problems.
I'm considering as a last resort to try it the "plasterboard way" - pack the hollow space with newspaper, squirt in some expanding foam, then when thats set hopefully I'll have a base on which to use the proper filler to finish the job off. When I've got several hours free. Ive another Ole like this on the nearside, I'll spare you all the fun of another photo!
I know this looks like neglect, but its just one of the perils of living so near the sea with no garage
BJ
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6th May 2006, 14:36
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 713
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Have you tried removing the internal panel, should be able to get up inside from there.
If you are going to the effort of repair I would also remove the window to do a proper job as it will only come back next year if you don't.
Is it a VW, you can get repair panels for them.
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6th May 2006, 15:38
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Hastings
Posts: 110
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Glad to see theres still one other Maestro in Sussex. Have 3M's at Lancing got any bits left?
Regret this beast is a Bedford Rascal converted to caravanette. The only way I could access the Ole from inside is by removing half the kitchen. OK it is built as a unit but I tried to drag it out last year - I removed about twenty screws and no amount of kicking and shoving would move it, no idea whats holding it (Rust? Surely not) The screws are still in the sink. I've got my expanding foam and gun all ready, should make an interesting photo.........
BJ
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8th May 2006, 09:37
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 185
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If it's not already too late to make suggestions, I think I'd take a small file/ angle grinder to clean back the rust to good metal. Then (depending on how any infill heat insulation material is placed near the hole) get an aerosol of Waxoyl and spray it around inside. This sorts out the rust that will have crept down the metalwork between the two skins. Then clean off the edges again and continue with the filler.
Personally I'd feed in a bit of wire mesh first rather than newspaper or expanding foam which might only hold the damp and cause rust if there's any remaining leakage in future. Consider using some of the hard resin variety that comes ready impregnated with fibreglass strands (is this P40?) to get a good bridge across and give a really solid base. Then rub down and finish with ordinary sandable filler. Prime and paint as required.
When you've finished, I've a couple of holes want doing on mine.......
Steve H
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9th May 2006, 14:37
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Hastings
Posts: 110
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Thanks everyone.
Went for the wire mesh and stranded fibreglass route. Jiggling mesh under the Ole was out of the question, so I banged a drift around the Ole edge until a basin-sort-of-lip was created, daubed the fibreglass on the underside of the mesh, pressed down and waited.
It looks great in the early crude stages after attacking it with a disc sander. Scraped ordinary filler round the hardened FGlass. A rounded end dinner knife is good, but I'm not looking forward to the fine sanding bit at the end. This Ole has several minor offspring round THREE other windows. Apart from wrapping my thumb in sandpaper, emery cloth, does anyone know of a nifty gadget that will smooth off the filler in this concave window surround please? (Photo above)
BJ
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9th May 2006, 14:44
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#11
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Now we're motoring!
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Bury, Lancashire
Posts: 3,579
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Have you invested in a rotary tool such as a Dremmel? You can get lots of nifty attachments for them, including many different size and shaped sanding heads and disks.
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12th May 2006, 12:21
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Hastings
Posts: 110
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Surely not one of these? £4.99 in your local model shop............
BJ
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