PAS pump

[C191JOE]

I've successfully installed new head gasket and PAS rack.
The only difficulty is that since re-installation the pump makes much more noise. Could the pump be on its way out or is there something I've overlooked Is it possible to overtighten the pulley for example?

[Simon]

Your system might need re-bleeding if it is making a moaning noise which increases with engine revs. I had to do mine several times before it became quiet. If there is a funny squeak+ budda budda budda noise and judder on full lock at parking speeds then you need to re-tension the PAS belt because it might be slipping somewhat.

[Chris Y]

If there is a funny squeak+ budda budda budda noise

I'm sorry Simon, but that made me laugh out loud :D Just the thought of you actually making those noises :cool:

[C191JOE]

Thanks simon - just tell please me the bleeding process - no profanity intended.
Also I put significant fluid into the system which has quietened it down. It's just over the 'max' mark so I'll see what happens
I did get some buddha buddha buddha -ing but I put it down to the Indian music I'd just been listening to!

[Simon]

...ensure that the fluid is up to the full mark, which you have done. Leave the cap off. Ideally jack the car up at the front and steer the front wheels side-to-side a few times, lower the car and replace the cap. I didn't bother with the jacking up stage myself, but jacking saves wear on the tyres and steering components. Top up if necessary.

Budda budda nothing, you should have heard the noise it made when I first installed PAS. It went "SQUAKK" !!

[G Force]

If you find that after you have bled the pas system and you still have a noise it may be that you have overtightened the cam belt tension. The pas pump is driven directly off of the cam pulley so turning the steering can alter the tone of the noise making you believe the pas is making the noise.

[C191JOE]

Thanks gentlemen for your advice. Sorry to not reply earlier - I was at Goodwood Revival over the weekend. Sir Stirling in a Jag Mk 7- amazing!

Should there be a bit of give in the belt tension? Would you advise loosening the belt a tad and see what sort of sound results?

[G Force]

Should there be a bit of give in the belt tension? Would you advise loosening the belt a tad and see what sort of sound results?

There should be give in the camshaft belt tension yes, it should not be overtightened. It should neither be too slack either as that too will also create noise and result in early failure of the belt.

The correct method of tensioning the cam belt is:
Step 1. align the timing marks
Step 2. using a dial type torque wrench inserted into the 3/8in square hole in the tensioner plate, apply a torque of 18lb ft then with the torque applied tighten the tensioner plate secureing bolts.
Step 3. rotate the engine clockwise by the crank pulley 3/4 turn. Then slacken the tensioner plate and repeat step 2.
Step 4. rotate the engine clockwise by the crank pulley 1 1/4 turn to check that the timing marks still line up.

If you dont have a dial torque wrench you can use a click type but you have to take care the tension doesn't slip back when the torque wrench clicks off.

If you don't have a torque wrench that will accurately measure 18lb ft, as a rough guide you should be able to apply thumb pressure to the centre of the long belt run to achieve a deflection of 1/2in or 13mm.

Gary:)

[C191JOE]

Yes sorry I misread your previous reply . I tightened the cambelt to the correct torque with a dial type torque wrench and followed haynes to the letter on that.
I had in mind the PAS belt tension. Because the PAS was an add-on I have no figures for the sort of give required. The belt has some deflection but as there are now no noises I think it may be about right.

Having put the wheels back on I notice that the alignment is hopeless despite counting the threads on the old rack and setting up the new system exactly.
I think I'll just get the wheels looking as true as possible and get them aligned ASAP at a garage. Unless anyone's got a better idea!