Radiator Fan

[D813YBB]

I’ve recently replaced the radiator on my car due to it failing at the rubber seal where the fan sensor is located and due to it falling to bits anyway.

On putting the new radiator in, I swapped the still working old fan onto the new radiator but forgot to put the washers on the mounting points so that the fan was tight against the radiator fins. Consequently the fuse blew on the first occasion it would have come on.

So I’ve now put the washers on and the fan blades rotate freely and I’ve bridged the connectors to ensure the fan is working. However yesterday while sitting in traffic the temperature went up as normal but no fan cut in. Investigation reveals the replacement fuse has also blown.

Is there anything else I should be checking?

Also I’m now out of 15 amp fuses. Are these generally available or specific to MMs?

TIA

[SimonR]

Hey there,

Sorry can't help with the cause of the blowing fuses but the 15A blade fuse is a universal fuse. You can get them in your local motorfactor as well as perhaps a decent petrol station.

I tend to take a pocketful of assorted fuses home when I visit my local scrap yard....

[E_T_V]

It isn't uncommon for fans to seize and blow the fuse when you switch it on.

Double check the fan is free to spin. I find adding a few drops of oil tot eh spindle can work wonders. Then bridge out the radiator thermostatic switch and the fan should run. Leave it run for 5 mins or so to free off (you'll probably notice that the fan spins much more freely after you've let it run for a while). If the fuse still blows, check the wiring for the fan and as a last resort fit a larger fuse temporarily to get the fan spinning or even connect it directly to the battery if you are brave. If it still refuses to spin or pops big fuses then it is time to find another fan!

[SimonR]

Actually I guess you should also check the wiring leading to the fan to make sure that the insulator is intact and not arcing onto any bits of bodywork.

[snakestamper]

I tend to take a pocketful of assorted fuses home when I visit my local scrap yard....

You know how they say you don't really get to know a person until you've lived with them for a while....... (prepares to find tupperware receptacle for new 'fuse collection'):rolleyes:

[e692wtt]

Wait for your invite to the scrapyard, with encouragement to bring your biggest handbag - followed by a sizeable collection of yellow and silver relays for the return journey, and the inevitable pile of bulbs that will somehow accumulate as well.

You'll need more than a tupperware box when you get home ;) .

I'm sure it's not just me with fingers that attract relays and light bulbs in scrapyards :laugh: .

[xamtex]

it may be possible the fan relay has failed causing the fuse to blow???

[E_T_V]

There is no fan relay on the 1.6. The only one that has a relay is the turbo petrol.

[D813YBB]

I’ve discovered the cause of the problem. The replacement radiator although a perfect fit in the car is slightly thicker than the old one. On re-assembling the front of car there is insufficient space between the body of the car and the radiator. When attaching the slam panel the radiator is pushed forward squashing the fan blades against the radiator.

The photos show where I’ve removed the rubber mounting points in the slam panel to try to provide some slack for the fan but it has been unsuccessful.

Therefore this raises the question of whether later Maestros had thinner fan mechanisms.

My options seem to be:

• Get another thinner (early style) radiator,
• See if there is a thinner fan, or
• File away the metal at the headlamp mounting panel (not doing that though)

Checking the EPC indicates that there were two models of fan; a GATE which is on my car and a DELANAIR.
Does anyone know if the Delanair is thinner than the Gate and if the mounting points and electrical connections are the same?

[E_T_V]

The fan is bolted to the front of the radiator I think so it shouldn't matter where the radiator sits. something sounds odd there as all the car rads are the same thickness, even the turbo ones.

[e692wtt]

There is no fan relay on the 1.6. The only one that has a relay is the turbo petrol.

I thought the MG1600 S-series had them too, as a "too little too late" effort :laugh: ? I could be wrong though :) .

[E_T_V]

They had a carb cooling fan, don't think they had a relay on the radiator fan though.

[D813YBB]

My local Partco can get me the correct radiator ADU 9516 for tomorrow for £106.00.

So I've decided to change the radiator rather than faff about trying to get information on fans. I've still got the original radiator to compare with.

I have to take this route as I use the car every day and its only a matter of time before I get held up in traffic and have to pull over to let the engine cool down.

I just hope the retainer for the fan sensor is included.....

[maestro vans]

Just a little comment to add to your photos that you showed us.
The spiggots that stick out from the top and bottom of the radiator that hold
it on the upper and lower slam panels should have rubber grommets in them
I dont know if that will help with your spacing issues. It will aslo hold the radiator a little more secure too. Just my two pennies worth. Also might be worth putting some washers on the rad to space the fan away slightly if the blades are rubbing. Good luck

maestro vans

[Simon]

I have the following set up on my Maestro 1.6 which works as it should:
Genuine MG ROVER factory Calsonic/Llanelli Radiators ADU 9516 radiator (replacement fitted 2 weeks ago which came with a new rad fan switch and grommet already fitted into place) replacement GATE fan, fitted with a washer in front of and also behind the fan. This bolts onto place nicely and plugs into the existing wiring. Do not do anything else. Fit a washer (They are M4 IIRC) onto the radiator stud, then the fan then another washer then the nut and you will have no problems. I also used coppaslip on the studs on the rad to ease removal of the fan if necessary, they have a habit of corroding themselves on, resulting in the studs breaking off which is not good...:)

[talkingcars]

Spending over £100 on a new rad seems an expensive way to fix this problem.

[BikerGran]

Think I'm gonna need a new rad sooner or later - just noticed a few white maks of corrosion on mine.

[Diesel Dave]

This is my recently swapped radiator, compared with the used replacement It didn't look this bad when it was installed.
http://www.davidakroyd.com/used_better_and_used_terrible_radiators.JPG

Diesel Dave