Montego TD Head - HELP !

[F 447]

:confused: :confused: Hello, me again. Struggling on, near to actually getting the Head off, but confused. Power steering drive wheel on the end of cam, do I need to take this off? Back plate of power steering, apart from the bolt at top of rocker cover, where are the other bolts that need to come off?
:confused: :confused: Someone said there is no need to take the turbo off(not sure what they meant), will I be able to just unbolt the manifolds from the head, instead? Because of the way I've got the car, I can't get underneath to unbolt the exhaust downpipe. Haynes manual says to do this, but in their photos it looks like they have unbolted the manifolds from the head. Also, I can't get the vacuum pump off, due to one of the bottom bolts being rounded off, will this be a problem?
Made up a scissor tool with metal bar, could not believe it when trying to undo the crank bolt, it just bent. I made up another with thicker bar and bigger bolts and managed to undo it in the end.
Can't believe how long its taken just to get this far, I suppose if you know what to do its probably that much quicker. I find the Haynes manual particularly painful to follow on this car and quite vague in some areas. Any help gratefully received. Cheers Steve.

[MGTurbo]

Originally posted by F 447
:confused: :confused: Hello, me again. Struggling on, near to actually getting the Head off, but confused. Power steering drive wheel on the end of cam, do I need to take this off? Back plate of power steering, apart from the bolt at top of rocker cover, where are the other bolts that need to come off?
:confused: :confused: Someone said there is no need to take the turbo off(not sure what they meant), will I be able to just unbolt the manifolds from the head, instead? Because of the way I've got the car, I can't get underneath to unbolt the exhaust downpipe. Haynes manual says to do this, but in their photos it looks like they have unbolted the manifolds from the head. Also, I can't get the vacuum pump off, due to one of the bottom bolts being rounded off, will this be a problem?
Made up a scissor tool with metal bar, could not believe it when trying to undo the crank bolt, it just bent. I made up another with thicker bar and bigger bolts and managed to undo it in the end.
Can't believe how long its taken just to get this far, I suppose if you know what to do its probably that much quicker. I find the Haynes manual particularly painful to follow on this car and quite vague in some areas. Any help gratefully received. Cheers Steve.

The pulley and belt needs to come off, the covers can then be removed.

The manifolds CAN be undone with the head still on, you need a 3/8 inch drive ratchet with a couple of extension bars and a 6 sided 10mm socket. It's fiddly, but far more easier than taking the exhaust downpipe off, which in turn would mean disconnecting the oil and return feeds for the turbo, to remove the head with the manifolds still attached. I removed the vacuum pump and the EGR to help with access to the manifold bolts, i also removed the pipe from the turbo to the manifold.

Don't know why your undoing the crank bolt? Unless your renewing the timing belt, in which case you would slacken off the bolt first before anything else was done, then set and mark the timing.

Gareth

[F 447]

:D Cheers Gareth, I am intending to renew the cambelt, which is a good job because Haynes don't show you how to do it if you are not. I am trying to follow Haynes, and it goes from section 13 to 9 to 10 to 7 etc, its doing my head in. But I am getting there. On the cambelt end, got the crank pulley off, cambelt off, timing kit / locking kit installed. I have got the power steering belt off. Funny thing though, alternator belt on its last legs, steering belt on its last legs, cambelt is perfect. I do like the fact that the cambelt is twice the width of any cambelts normally used, on most cars. Not got EGR on mine luckily.
When you say you removed the pipe form the turbo to the manifold, do you mean where it meets the inlet manifold? (cast alloy colour?) Is that so you can push the manifolds back a little, to get the head off?
Thanks, Steve.

[BIGLAD]

Originally posted by F 447
:confused: :confused: Hello, me again. Struggling on, near to actually getting the Head off, but confused. Power steering drive wheel on the end of cam, do I need to take this off? Back plate of power steering, apart from the bolt at top of rocker cover, where are the other bolts that need to come off?
:confused: :confused: Someone said there is no need to take the turbo off(not sure what they meant), will I be able to just unbolt the manifolds from the head, instead? Because of the way I've got the car, I can't get underneath to unbolt the exhaust downpipe. Haynes manual says to do this, but in their photos it looks like they have unbolted the manifolds from the head. Also, I can't get the vacuum pump off, due to one of the bottom bolts being rounded off, will this be a problem?
Made up a scissor tool with metal bar, could not believe it when trying to undo the crank bolt, it just bent. I made up another with thicker bar and bigger bolts and managed to undo it in the end.
Can't believe how long its taken just to get this far, I suppose if you know what to do its probably that much quicker. I find the Haynes manual particularly painful to follow on this car and quite vague in some areas. Any help gratefully received. Cheers Steve.

Hi,
You have to remove the Vac pump, because one of the head bolts is beneath it and therefore you can't undo all the head bolts.
Biglad

[F 447]

;) Thanks for your reply Biglad. Managed to suss it out in the end, got the head off, head seemed pretty good, slight pitting around 1 & 4 cylinders. Block face poor, heavy rusting around all water passages which was bubbling up to the block face. If any thing needed skimming it was the block. So tidied up the head and block and put it all back togather again. Had big trouble trying to put new cambelt on it was a tight fit. Also could not get the injection pump to time up, it ended up about half a tooth out. I have now just checked that the cam and bottom end are timed together. Have no dial gauge and probe, so slackened the injector pump and pulled it back towards the rad 5mm to compensate for the timing being half a tooth out. Still won't start though. I have bled everything through. Had big trouble with the fuel lift pump, it would not draw anyhting up. So took it apart and found it to be jammed inside, looked like someone had been at it and not put it back together properly. Ran OK before, perhaps the injector pump was doing all the work?
Any suggestions for why it won't start and or injector timing please ??? Steve..:confused: :confused:

[J199 HHG]

Check the stop valve is wired correctly. Should be 12V on the terminal.

[BIGLAD]

Originally posted by F 447
;) Thanks for your reply Biglad. Managed to suss it out in the end, got the head off, head seemed pretty good, slight pitting around 1 & 4 cylinders. Block face poor, heavy rusting around all water passages which was bubbling up to the block face. If any thing needed skimming it was the block. So tidied up the head and block and put it all back togather again. Had big trouble trying to put new cambelt on it was a tight fit. Also could not get the injection pump to time up, it ended up about half a tooth out. I have now just checked that the cam and bottom end are timed together. Have no dial gauge and probe, so slackened the injector pump and pulled it back towards the rad 5mm to compensate for the timing being half a tooth out. Still won't start though. I have bled everything through. Had big trouble with the fuel lift pump, it would not draw anyhting up. So took it apart and found it to be jammed inside, looked like someone had been at it and not put it back together properly. Ran OK before, perhaps the injector pump was doing all the work?
Any suggestions for why it won't start and or injector timing please ??? Steve..:confused: :confused:

Time everything up correctly (put the pins in the Cam,Crank/flywheel, and injection pump).
Slacken the pump off and get it back to where it was to start with.
You should be able to see where the pump was previously, by looking at the securing nuts (M8/13mm socket size) in relation the the pump body.
Look at the "elongated" holes in the pump (that allows you to move it), it will be "clean" where the nuts were clamping/holding it before.
Get the pump back top this position and re-tighten it.
Slacken off the High pressure Diesel pipes (from pump to each injector) at the injectors.
Crank the engine over.
This will do 2 things bleed any air out of the pipes and confirm you have diesel at the injectors.
BE carefull of the Diesel "spray" whilst cranking- it is under high pressure and can be quite nasty.
Biglad

[BIGLAD]

P.S.-
Make sure you aren't drawing any air in from any where else in the fuel system, that you may have had apart/dismantled during the "Head Job"
:)

[F 447]

;) Hello, and thanks for your replies, especially Biglad. Although I'd worked out the pump needed moving 5mm, I am sure now that I'd turned it the wrong way :censored: so I've had to get at it again and turn it 10mm back the other way, towards the engine. Won't know untill tomorrow whether its done the job, because I'm charging the battery and have still got to put the rad back.
When I had previously tried to start it, and it nearly did once, there seemed to be a tinkling noise, which seemed to be coming from the cambelt end of the engine. I've had the cambelt covers of again and checked all I could think of, but found nothing. Any ideas for a tinkling sound around that area of the engine??? :confused: :confused:
My wild guess is that a piece of the old gasket might be running around the waterpump. I mean a piece form where the water jacket is, that seem to bubble up from the gasket, and look like and are as hard as rust. Does that sound possible. I say that because when i drained the coolant out for the umpteenth time I found a piece in the bowl I drained it into. I'll know later tomorrow if its still doing it, hopefully.:D

[F 447]

:D Well, got it going, but it smoked like a bonfire and struggled to pick up revs. I worked out that the injection pump pulley was half a tooth out on the cambelt / timimg. First of all I pulled the pump away from the engine :o wrong way! So I started pushing it towards the engine untill it ran quite well and hardly any smoke. Ended up altering the pump half a dozen times, and each time having to take the radiator out, undo the three nuts and the two bolts, loosening the injector pipes and bleeding it through. Now it runs pretty good, although still seems to be slightly out. Don't think the pump will push in any more, its right up close and the pipes probably won't take it. I suppose ideally the cambelt needs to come off the injector pulley and then moving it up one tooth, then altering the pump again. But I'll have to see how it drives at the moment, really don't fancy doing all that again - takes too long and need car for work.

Can't believe it, heater still don't work. In fact it colder than it was before :censored: :banghead: And don't understand why the engine seems to be so quiet, what does that mean????:confused: :confused:

[J199 HHG]

Running quiet - I would say the injector timing is too 'late', i.e. retarded. Needs to be rotated with the top moving towards the engine.

[F 447]

:giveup: Thanks Chris, had a nagging feeling that it still needed advancing some more. That means I'll have to get at the cambelt and move the injector wheel up one tooth in relation to the cam wheel and the crank wheel. Because I'm sure the pump won't go towards the engine any more, or should I say the injector pipes won't. Would you agree?
When I do it I'll have to remember to mark all the pulleys first, (mental note).:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
It dosn't seem to take off at low revs like it used to, but it definately picks up better at mid revs and beyond - sound right?

[BIGLAD]

Hi,
If you didn't manage to get a timing pin kit then lock the injection pump with some M6 bolts (about 40-45mm long i think) and then move the timing belt.
If you struggle with the timing belt slacken the adjuster pulley AND the "jockey" wheel. (the one that is held with a 13mm spanner/socket size head) Most people forget to slacken this one.
Biglad

[F 447]

;) Thanks Biglad, yeah, I did manage to get a locking /timing pin kit. Right I'll remember to slacken both jockey wheels.
What happens if the timing of the injector pump gets advanced too much?? Does that cause diesel knock?? Thanks Steve.

[G Force]

Originally posted by F 447
;) What happens if the timing of the injector pump gets advanced too much?? Does that cause diesel knock?? Thanks Steve.

Yes Steve, the engine will be noisier with over advanced injector timing, it will even be noticeable at idle.

Cheers Gary;)