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secubis3
27th April 2008, 20:49
I've discovered I need a lighting board for my back end as my two bikes hide my lights when mounted. I've been told it's a piece of cake to connect up, but how easy is it? and do I need to get some stuff (what stuff?)to wrap the wires in to keep them dry and safe, and will this put a strain on my battery?
Can anyone give a little guideance, Oh yes and any safety points I need to follow.

Cheers
S

fatboy.01
27th April 2008, 21:03
you'll need

pre wired 7 pin light socket cos it's easier and should come with wiring diagram
soldering iron and solder
electrical tape
round crimp terminal for the earth wire
some cable ties
a test light
indicator relay
a trailer/light board to test the socket

should get the sockect and relay from any good motor factors
hide the socket under the bumber
should take about an hour doing a nice job

G51 NAV
27th April 2008, 21:43
will this put a strain on my battery?No the only thing it puts a strain on is the in-car flasher-unit, hence why, as fatboy.01 quite accurately states, you need a separate flasher-unit.

Bit of nifty wiring should also see the caravan-light flash on your dash when you use the indicators with the light-board attached, which I think is damn clever, but I admit to being easily amused.

talkingcars
27th April 2008, 21:53
IF you are lucky you'll get a plate that fits between the flasher relay and the fusebox.

You don't have to solder the contacts, you can use scothlock crimp terminals, most "professional" garages do when fitting towbar electrics.

e692wtt
27th April 2008, 21:59
The pre-wired 7 pin light socket can be mounted under the car so it is 'hidden' I guess - go for it, it will save messing about if/when you fit a towbar as the electrics are 'done' already :) .

The 'towing relay' powers the 'towing indicator light' on the dash, it is "plug and play". I've found that the standard indicator relay runs a lightbar on a trailer easily - but the 'towing indicator' light (or a buzzer that sounds when the traler indicators are 'on') is a legal requirement when towing.

You could get the pre-wired 7 pin socket only, it's easy to install with its instructions, and hide it securely under the bumper. Use in conjuncton with a light bar on the rear end of the bikes, and the jobs a good 'un :D .

And don't forget a number plate for the light bar... One that matches your car would be good ;) .

EDIT: and I use scotchloks to connect into the wiring too, had no trouble at all on several cars over a decade or more. Not ideal, but as talkingcars said this is how the professionals do it... :)

Ricky
27th April 2008, 23:26
Spit. Those would be the same "professionals" then that created the nightmare ball of wiring that is otherwise known as the passenger side rear light cluster on my 405, in the end I had to rip out every single scotchlock and replace it with a chocolate block connector, again hardly ideal but at least it meant I could go somewhere in the dark without it blowing the fuse that controls the number plate lights, the passenger side rear sidelight and the front two sidelights..... French wiring or scotchlock connectors? Both as bad as the other.....:laugh:

E_T_V
28th April 2008, 11:51
First question is do you have a towbar? I'm assuming not but worth asking anyway.
If you can buy an inline plug rather than a mounted socket type (as you'll have nowhere to mount the socket if you have no towbar!).

Something like this (you want the N type)
http://www.towsure.com/category/7202-Inline_Sockets
With some wire like (again N type)
http://www.towsure.com/category/7196-Cable_and_Wire
Some solder and some insulation tape and bobs your uncle. a nice neat reliable job.

You don't need an extra relay - the one that is in there can cope fine - however if you want the indicator light to work on the dash then you'll need a the relay with the extra pin. Strictly you should have an audible or visual warning that your tow lighting indicators are working and if you buy a wiring kit you usually get a beeper included with them (which gets really annoying in a hatchback car as it is loud!)

You'll need the haynes manual for the car to get the right wiring colours but it isn't a hard job.

fatboy.01
28th April 2008, 19:53
i'm sorry but i've worked in several "professional" garages and have never used dodgy bodge up motors scotchloks there just crap

do it properly and soilder them its a nicer job and dont have a bundle of blue mess behind the lamps

talkingcars
29th April 2008, 06:40
i'm sorry but i've worked in several "professional" garages and have never used dodgy bodge up motors scotchloks there just crap

do it properly and soilder them its a nicer job and dont have a bundle of blue mess behind the lamps

Solder joints are harder to return to stock than scotchloks.

BikerGran
29th April 2008, 20:30
Scotchblock - :horror:

secubis3
30th April 2008, 12:56
Jinks..Crinks and help ma Boab. I was told that it was "Only a few wires gov and if you have an uncle then his name will be Bob..Robert or Rab.."
Rely..buzzers..warning lights - looks like I need to do some reading on the subject. Is there any books with pictures that anyone can recommend or do I just bite the bullet and go for it?
If I don't have a buzzer inside, is that illegal, and will the new external electrics be part of the MOT?

E_T_V
30th April 2008, 16:49
Jinks..Crinks and help ma Boab. I was told that it was "Only a few wires gov and if you have an uncle then his name will be Bob..Robert or Rab.."
Rely..buzzers..warning lights - looks like I need to do some reading on the subject. Is there any books with pictures that anyone can recommend or do I just bite the bullet and go for it?
If I don't have a buzzer inside, is that illegal, and will the new external electrics be part of the MOT?

Technically you should have some form of warning if your tow lighting isn't working, however it is not tested at the MOT and it would be unusual for a bike to obscure the original indicator on the car anyway. I think I made a post in the FAQ section on this topic. I'll go and see if I can find it.......

E_T_V
30th April 2008, 16:58
Can't find it at the mo but...


Wiring colours for the trailer socket and wire are:

Pin 1 LH Indicator, yellow
Pin 2 Fog Light, blue
Pin 3 Earth,white
pin 4 RH Indicator, green
Pin 5 RH Tail, brown
Pin 6 Stop/Brake, red
Pin 7 LH Tail, black


On the car

Left hand side:

Red/Black trace - left tail lamp
Green/Red trace - left indicator
Green/Purple - stop lamps
Blue/Yellow - rear fog lamp
Black - earth

Right hand side:

Red/Orange trace - right tail lamp
Green/White tracer - right indicator


(Might be worth FAQ-ing this)

secubis3
30th April 2008, 21:21
Thanks for all the advice good people. I found the FAQ you mentioned ETV, how did I miss that one?? I also spoke with towsure and they listed the items I need to complete the job, very helpful them guys.
ETV the bikes I have are two pretty large ones that totally obscure the back lights, I have also since been told that the profile is two far beyond the car and have been shown how to reduce that. I'll let you know when I do the job so you can pray for me!!!!

Cheers all

S

secubis3
18th May 2008, 00:35
Well on my second attempt I managed to get my lighting board done. It is working a treat, many thanks for all your advice, but the noise from the audiable alarm is not so good.

One more piece of advice I need...I drilled the hole in the wrong place and it has been plugged for the time being with a rubber bung, as it is only a small hole what do I need to apply to stop it from rusting? Is it just some primer and top coat or do I need to apply some sealer?

Cheers
S

henocsr
18th May 2008, 22:03
Scotch locks are not what i have ever used or would use, and i am a pro'.
Heat shirk crimp connectors are the way to go, or even just lucus type crimp connectors

C191JOE
30th May 2008, 14:56
Hi
Don't get 'relay' confused with 'flasher unit'
The relay doesn't need to be changed. The flasher unit DOES. Halfords sell the 'Heavy Duty flasher unit' at around £12. Off the shelf. It has four pins rather than the three pinned one it replaces. It enables the caravan icon on the instrument panel. The flasher unit is located just under the steering column. If you open the driver's door and put your head just under the steering wheel (whilst stationary, of course), you'll hear the unit clicking when you use the indicator.
I've just done all that within the past 3 weeks. I'd fitted a towbar last year but the buzzer died.
Also a year or two ago I collected a fixed penalty fine for not haveing a light board whilst carrying a bike on the rear of the car. Make sure the board has got a number plate on, not just lights. Getting the number plate from Halfords necessitates taking the V5 with you. Possibly your passport and a gas bill by now.

talkingcars
31st May 2008, 09:14
Hi
Don't get 'relay' confused with 'flasher unit'.
They are one and the same.

You can either get a heavy duty 4 pin unit or a plate that goes between the relay board and the flasher relay.

Make sure the board has got a number plate on, not just lights. Getting the number plate from Halfords necessitates taking the V5 with you. Possibly your passport and a gas bill by now.
Or get a "show" plate mailorder or from eBay, you don't need the details of the garage who made the plate as the maestro/montego will be older than the 2001 law dictating that you do.