Getting the rear anti-roll bar off...

[SimonR]

OK - is there some kind of secret that I don't know?

My father and I have the MG's rear H-frame out (See Spring Project... Thread!) and are trying to remove the rear ARB. We've undone its nuts but it's not budging!

So far we've tried gentle persuasion followed by beating it with a sledgehammer, then applying heat but nothing's had any effect - it's still firmly held in place.

Do we just need to use more violence?

[SimonR]

Does nobody know how to do this?

I have a feeling that it is just a case of beating it with a hammer but I'd like to prove it either way...

Thanks.

[G Force]

Hi SimonR I can't picture the set up. but if you fancy taking a photo of the part you are trying to remove it might refresh my memory if you don't get a definitive answer.

Gary

[SimonR]

Cheers, Gary, that's what I'll do!

[E_T_V]

I'd also like to know as the last one I tried to remove I broke :(

You could always not fit the rear one, it'll make the car comfier to drive in normal use. Fitting one also makes the car a bit more tail-happy in my experience.

[EVO AL]

I don't think I have ever been sucessful in removing one...

I would just leave it off. Normal driving you will not know any differance..

[SimonR]

Hi SimonR I can't picture the set up. but if you fancy taking a photo of the part you are trying to remove it might refresh my memory if you don't get a definitive answer.

Righty ho - here's the offending part. You can see the bolt I've undone where it passes throught the rear H-Frame...

What do you reckon? - hit it some more with a hammer?!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y291/Wonkey_Donkey/Maestro/MG%20into%20DRY/CopyofIMG_0281.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y291/Wonkey_Donkey/Maestro/MG%20into%20DRY/CopyofIMG_0282.jpg

Sorry about all the junk in the photo above - as you can see there's still half an MG in my parents' garage ;-)

[dieselmaestrodave]

There is only one way to get it off and its brutal, assuming you wont be using the old h frame. You need to grind a slot in the round metal collar as this has rusted onto the roll bar, once you have done this you can then apply WD-40 or plusgas and then some heat, some big mole grips around the collar to twist and loosen it and eventually you will see some movement, you may end up having to recut the threads a little.

Its alot of hassle for very little gain, leave it off as the car will actually handle better without it, all it does is create the impression that the rear is firmer but by having it it actually stops the h frame from performing as it should which is to twist slightly, doesnt matter on a race car but if you want predicatable handling leave it off! Just put decent gas shocks on the rear and use the 2.0i springs will be enough.

[G Force]

Hi SimonR. I think all that can be said has been said on the pros and cons of keeping the rear roll bar. With regard to removing it you will not shift the bar by force alone as the collar / distance piece between the square section of the frame is well and truely seized onto the roll bar. The only way you will have any chance of removing it is to get the whole of the collar white hot with oxy acetelene and trying to drift the roll bar through. Even that way you are not certain to move it and probably ruin the strength of the roll bar, so your best bet may be to resign yourself to cutting a groove along the length of the collar with a dremell then splitting it with a chissel. You will then be able to easily remove the anti roll bar but you will have to make another two distance collars out of suitable tubeing.

Sorry not to be able to offer a better solution.:(

Gary

[threelitre]

Change the complete H-Frame as is?

Alexander

[SimonR]

Thanks one and all for your help and views.

I think the solution is going to be to leave out the rear ARB as all the post above seem to suggest that 1) I don't need it and 2) it'll be a right pain to remove it!!

Alex - the reason I'm not changing the H-Frame as a complete unit is because the MG's one is slightly damaged where one of the shocks bolts onto it.

[TEAM78]

you need to apply gas to it, it will then move, Ive got a number of them off that way. thats the oxy-tourch, will be off in minutes, heat up the thick cylinder spacers, thats the villan

btw the rear arb is most certainly worth while on fwd vehicles with forward bias mass distributions, it fails to do much on the maestro due to poor chassis stiffness