Clutch Change?

[SimonR]

Ok, I've been thinking about this for a while. I'm transplanting an 80k mile engine into my car and as far as I know the clutch has never been changed.

The donor car drives very nicely - no clutch-related problems at all, but I'm wondering if it'd be prudent to change the clutch while the engine / box are out of the car.

Any opinions?

By the way - thanks to all for help so far I really appreciate it all!

If the answer is yes, has anyone got a clutch it for a 2.0l Maestro with Honda manual box?

[BikerGran]

Don't know anything about specifically Meastro clutches, but from a lifetime of driving old cars, I know that an apparently perfectly good clutch often doesn't respond well to anything changing, even if it's only the driver!

And I do know from experience how infuriating it is to do a complete engine change, put it all back together, then the clutch goes a few days later.....

I'd change it if you can get one.

[fatboy.01]

as above

change it will engine is out much easier

[Oli]

On a couple of occasions i've neglected to change something when the engine is out, not long down the line it packs up....

Simon, do it IMO.

[SimonR]

Ah - I thought you might say that!!

Would this (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-216-800-Maestro-87-91-Clutch-Kit-K044_W0QQitemZ130013504253QQihZ003QQcategoryZ10414 QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247Q QcmdZViewItem) do the job?

[Simon]

That should be fine, note the typo on the description which reads Maestro 1.6 1988-93, that should read Montego because that was fitted with the Honda box. Whilst the gearbox is off, you can inspect the rear crank seal and also change the release bearing which is easy. If I were you I'd add a new cable to the list, keeping the old one as a spare in the boot, just in case...EBC are a respected make anyway and this is a conventional clutch not the wierdo VW inside out one. Have you got a centralisation tool? You don't really need one though!

[SimonR]

That should be fine, note the typo on the description which reads Maestro 1.6 1988-93, that should read Montego because that was fitted with the Honda box. Whilst the gearbox is off, you can inspect the rear crank seal and also change the release bearing which is easy. If I were you I'd add a new cable to the list, keeping the old one as a spare in the boot, just in case...EBC are a respected make anyway and this is a conventional clutch not the wierdo VW inside out one. Have you got a centralisation tool? You don't really need one though!

Heapo - the Maestro / Montego mix up was what threw me a little. Anyway, the part's now purchased and on its way.

I don't have a centralisation tool - I've never changed a non-VW clutch before but the Haynes said I needed it for the VW and I never. Are there thread-locked bolts to replace like the VW clutch?

Hopefully the oil seals will be nice and oil tight when it all comes apart...

Cheers

SR.

[G Force]

Are there thread-locked bolts to replace like the VW clutch?
.

No simonr you are ok to reuse the old bolts, + the fly wheel stays on as long as the rear crank seal is ok.

Gary:)

[Russ]

Going a bit off topic,do you have to remove the flywheel on a metro turbo (verto)? Ive done it in the past but cant remember. My clutch is a bit noisey.

Russ

[G Force]

Going a bit off topic,do you have to remove the flywheel on a metro turbo (verto)? Ive done it in the past but cant remember. My clutch is a bit noisey.

Russ

On the verto clutch the pressure plate makes up half of the flywheel mass and has to be remove as one unit along with the back half of the flywheel. It is held on by the large centre nut and offset key washer in much the same way as the old mini. The turbo clutch is always really tight to pull off the crank for some reason (higher rpm I suspect) and sometimes brings lumps of crank with it where the two weld themselves together:eek:

Gary:)

[oseerees]

Not sure if I read this right but if you have a donor engine/box that means you have the engine/box in your car to come out?

- when removing latter dismantle the gearbox and nick the mainshaft - you then have the best centralising tool available (and it will have cost you nowt!).:cool:

[SimonR]

Not sure if I read this right but if you have a donor engine/box that means you have the engine/box in your car to come out?

- when removing latter dismantle the gearbox and nick the mainshaft - you then have the best centralising tool available (and it will have cost you nowt!).:cool:


You're right - but the engine coming out is a 1.6, not 2.0l. Thanks for the idea though - would have been a winner ;)

[G Force]

dismantle the gearbox and nick the mainshaft - you then have the best centralising tool available (and it will have cost you nowt!).:cool:

I know it is irrelevant as we are talking two different gearboxes, but just if anyone wanted to go this route it would not work in the case of either gearbox.

You can only use an old gearbox mainshaft to align the clutch if the crankshaft has a pilot / nose bearing. Neither gearbox has its mainshaft supported by a nose bearing so it cannot work in this instance sorry.:(

The correct centralising tool fits into the clutch centre plate and has a large boss that fits into the pressure plate in the circumference formed by the fingers. I think ETV picked up a bunch of Churchill tools with one in, but you can do it by eye.;)

Gary:)

[E_T_V]

Did I? Oops I still use the end of a ratchet to centralise it :o :)

[G Force]

Did I? Oops I still use the end of a ratchet to centralise it :o :)

I might have imagined it if you don't remember it:o but 18G 1483 is the one in question;)

[Simon]

The last one I did was by eye!

[Rich]

I spent ages messing about with the centralising tool when I changed a diesel clutch. It took so long to work out how it worked, then got stuck, so I chucked it over my shoulder and used an 3/4" extension bar.