EFi just died .....

[redmaestro]

Hi All,

I started my car (EFi) this morning after work (5am) and drove home. She started first time, no problems at all. I got up this afternoon, and wanted to go for a drive into town with my missus. The engine turned over as normal, but just wouldnt fire.

After about 10mins trying, the battery gave up.

Any ideas what I should look at tomorrow. I'm thinking about changing the plugs and dizzy cap - but is there anything else I should look at?

[SimonR]

Hi All... I got up this afternoon, and wanted to go for a drive into town with my missus. The engine turned over as normal, but just wouldnt fire.

Any ideas what I should look at tomorrow. I'm thinking about changing the plugs and dizzy cap - but is there anything else I should look at?

Huh - bad luck!

Erm the ECU is another thing that I'd look at if the dizzy cap / plugs / leads don't do it. Take a plug out and see if you get a spark.....

[Russ]

Check the inertia switch (drivers footwell) isnt tripped or the wires of it

[G51 NAV]

Deffo check the inertia switch! Right behind the radio, you can't miss it.

[MAESTRO_MONTEGO]

yep little black boxs with a red top button behind the radio,you can see it if you put your head in the foot well and look at the wiring for radio.;)

[threelitre]

I'd first check if there is any spark reaching the plugs at all. If not it can be likely that the rotor from the distributor is defect, even if it looks perfect.

Alexander

[G Force]

Hi redmaestro, you can do a check to help diagnose the problem just by sitting quietly in the car with the doors and windows closed. I will try describe them but they sound more complex than they actually are, they just take a couple of miniutes in reallity.

Turn on the ignition and see if you can hear the fuel pump running at the rear of the car, it should run for two seconds when you turn on the ignition to position II. If you need to listen a few times wait 30 seconds after switching off before turning the ignition back on.

If you can hear the pump running this proves the main relay, fuel pump relay, inertia switch are all ok and the injection ecu is controlling the fuel pump system.

If you can't hear the fuel pump priming for two seconds, turn the ignition to position II and listen towards the engine and bulkhead area to see if you can hear the stepper motor rattling for few seconds. You should also hear the stepper motor rattle when you turn off the ignition followed by a relay click 15to 30 seconds later.

If you can't hear the stepper motor rattling then it is more than likely the main relay is faulty or the inertia switch tripped. If you can hear the stepper motor rattle but not the fuel pump priming the fuel pump relay could be faulty. (In this condition the engine should try to start when cranking but stop as soon as you let go of the key unless the small white green wire is not connected to the starter or fuel pump ballast resistor)



If the above tests prove ok i.e. both stepper motor and fuel pump can be heard move on to checking for a spark at the HT leads and fuel at injectors etc..


Gary:)

[redmaestro]

Hi All,

Just a quick update to let you know how I got on this afternoon.

I had put the battery on a slow charge overnight, so was ready for today. I reconnected it and oddly enough she started. I bought new plugs, rotor arm and dizzy cap and started on working on her. Here is what I found.

1. Old plugs were worn
2. The metal on the rotor arm/dizzy cap looked tarnished
3. The screw that held the rotor arm has worked its way off the rotor arm.
4. The metal spade connector on the coil lead going into the old dizzy cap was badly corroded. I assume it was made out of copper because the corrosion was a bluey green colour, and the metal was starting to fall apart. The coil end was fine.

Also, inside the old dizzy cap had like a small, thin, yellow plastic shaving - as if the metal 'blade' from the old rotor arm had rubbed against the yellow plastic shield thingy. I guess this was due to the rotor arm not being screwed in or being loose.

I'm not sure exactly which one of these was causing the problem - but she seems fine now!!!!

[G51 NAV]

Good news all round then. I once had a rotor-arm snap in an MG EFi, just as the car was pulling up the drive...how lucky was that!

[mgdavid]

Hi All,

Just a quick update to let you know how I got on this afternoon.

I had put the battery on a slow charge overnight, so was ready for today. I reconnected it and oddly enough she started. I bought new plugs, rotor arm and dizzy cap and started on working on her. Here is what I found.

1. Old plugs were worn
2. The metal on the rotor arm/dizzy cap looked tarnished
3. The screw that held the rotor arm has worked its way off the rotor arm.
4. The metal spade connector on the coil lead going into the old dizzy cap was badly corroded. I assume it was made out of copper because the corrosion was a bluey green colour, and the metal was starting to fall apart. The coil end was fine.

Also, inside the old dizzy cap had like a small, thin, yellow plastic shaving - as if the metal 'blade' from the old rotor arm had rubbed against the yellow plastic shield thingy. I guess this was due to the rotor arm not being screwed in or being loose.

I'm not sure exactly which one of these was causing the problem - but she seems fine now!!!!

...regularly serviced then !....

[ben rawlings]

yet another blunt, helpful comment from mr mg david ;)

Glad you got your maestro sorted mate.