Lowering a Maestro [Archive] - Maestro & Montego Owners Club

John S

4th January 2004, 13:14

Originally posted by Sam
Hello,

Has anybody here lowered their Maestro? I was thinking about doing it but was just wandering if it was a good idea...What improvements would it make as the handling is fairly good anyway?:confused:

It is quite expensive to lower a Maestro if you buy everthing brand new and have the kit fitted professionally. Asking on mgcars.org.uk could bring some results regarding the KYB gas branded shocks.
I lowered my maestro TD and it improves the looks i.e. you can't see the suspension through the wheelarch gap and you can give it some speed around roundabouts with less fear of becoming 'unstuck' from the road. The car does not lean to one side when driving energetically round corners like it used to either due to stiffer springs - which is nice. A good cheap upgrade is to fit front and rear anti-roll bars but as I guess yours might be a 1.6 it will already have one but not the rear which you can get off an MG model.
For turbo owners, an added benefit of lowering the suspension is that you gain improved traction/downforce allowing for a slightly speedier take off.

John

E_T_V

5th January 2004, 00:48

I've asked a similar question on here and looked for a few solutions (my problem was compounded by the fact it is a van!!)

There are several solutions but the least cost is to get a set of shorter and stiffer springs. I found a place that will manufacture any spring I like and they also sell kits for 75 quid that lower the car by 35mm. Make sure you are using the shorter shock length (there are two lengths on the maestro) and replace with either shorter shocks or new standard ones.

Would that be of any interest?

MGTurbo

5th January 2004, 09:32

IIRC the company selling springs said they had them in stock but had great trouble searching for them when i called up, and it would take at least 6 weeks to order them. At the time i went for motobuild springs, but more expensive, closer to £100.

I lowered my car 1 inch all round, it was found the back end sat lower than the front, this would have settled in time, i chose to lower it a bit further to 35-40 mm at the front.

One thing i would add, the 1.6 doesn't have a ARB on the rear as mentioned, i wouldnt retro-fit one because it simply doesn't need it, and can cause lift-off oversteer for the average road driver who's pushing it a bit.

I lowered my friend's 1.6 2 inches all round, brand new Monroe shocks and Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD-3 tyres with 6x15 Monty rims. The handling was out of this world, it had an initial bit of body roll then stiffened, up the grip was incredible, understeer was virtually non-existant, it would run rings around my Turbo everytime. Part of this was due to the 1.6 being lighter at the front, and the lack of ARB on the rear.

An interesting point is the latest Rover 25/200/MG ZR shares the same rear H frame as a Maestro, but even the ZR does NOT have the ARB fitted! I can see why, i may even consider removing mine. My Montego Estate doesn't have one either and that handles better than any standard Maestro Turbo, even at normal height!

Anyway i'm drifting slightly off-topic. Hope this has been of some help.

Gareth

Sam

5th January 2004, 11:16

They sell 2" lowered springs for £110 at motobuild. Do you think I will be able to use the original Maestro shocks with these springs, or will it sag at the back??? As buying new springs and shocks gets a bit expensive.Do you think 2"s is a bit much? I don't want it scraping on the wheel arches on tight corners or when I have people in the back.

John S

5th January 2004, 12:14

Originally posted by Sam
They sell 2" lowered springs for £110 at motobuild. Do you think I will be able to use the original Maestro shocks with these springs, or will it sag at the back??? As buying new springs and shocks gets a bit expensive.Do you think 2"s is a bit much? I don't want it scraping on the wheel arches on tight corners or when I have people in the back.

You might find the ride a bit harsh but if you are solely aiming for great looks & roadholding it may be the right choice. My exhaust rattled against the underbody when the car was fully loaded and needed re-adjustment. Mine is lowered 1" as it has an 0 series engine which is prone to 'grounding' and as it's a diesel it's no real sports car anyway (well not all the time ;)). Don't know if grounding is an issue with the S series though. I'll post further info if I find it.

John S

5th January 2004, 13:01

Here's some info from the rather aged Motobuild brochure.....

John S

5th January 2004, 13:10

Price list November 2002, parts subject to availability.....

Sam

5th January 2004, 14:02

M170 RFA can you please email me those two pages as I can't quite make them out on here.

My email address is samuelmcnally@aol.com

Cheers

onza100

5th January 2004, 14:36

The shocks and springs moto-build provide are made by a company called KYB web site here
http://www.kayabaeurope.com/cgi-bin/kyb/kybdata.pl?next=catalogtop

I think its cheaper to buy them direct. I wouldnt bother with just springs. There are to shock lengths for the maestro and monty. Mines lowerd 2" also fitted powerflex bushes to it at the same time and a Monty turbo diesel estate anti roll bar.

Sam

5th January 2004, 15:07

I just had a ook at that website and the online catalogue, but I couldn't understand how there measurements work out. Which ones are the two inch lowered ones? Can't find any prices either...isn't it expensive to get the springs and the shocks?

Bertybassett

5th January 2004, 21:07

Hello Sam

I`ve I had my efi lowered for all of my ownership less 1 month at the very beginning. I`m going on 3 years now. Here are a few of my experiences.

There are 2 main lengths of dampers for the maestro 264mm and 250mm on the front and about 3 differnet heights on the back, 180mm, 165mm and 157mm from memory.

Motobuilf sell the KYB gas struts 264mm on front and 157mm on back, this combined with 1" or 2" lowering springs makes the car look lower at the back then the front. They are in actual lowered the same amount its just the geometry of the car which gives this effect. I got over this by fitting the 250mm damper which brings the front a touch lower and makes the car look "level" to view. I have 2" lowering springs on my car with the shortest fixed dampers for front and back with 16" wheels and 205/45 tyres. The car sticks to road brilliantly, but the ride is a little harsh at times. I wouldn`t have this configuaration with 15" wheels as your smack the sump just drivinf down the road. I haven`t hit my sump once in normal driving. The wheel arches do not rub on my car, but they do on others.

Sam

5th January 2004, 22:02

So I can't just buy the springs and use the original dampers?

Sam

5th January 2004, 22:06

Originally posted by M170 RFA
You might find the ride a bit harsh but if you are solely aiming for great looks & roadholding it may be the right choice. My exhaust rattled against the underbody when the car was fully loaded and needed re-adjustment. Mine is lowered 1" as it has an 0 series engine which is prone to 'grounding' and as it's a diesel it's no real sports car anyway (well not all the time ;)). Don't know if grounding is an issue with the S series though. I'll post further info if I find it.
Did you use the original dampers and just replace the springs?
If I just replaced the springs would it be lower at the back than at the front, or would it be level?

E_T_V

5th January 2004, 22:25

Standard shocks aren't very expensive at all and they'll make a world of difference to the handling anyway over a worn out set. I recall they are something like £13 each or there abouts. Of course they aren't uprated in any way but they'd certainly make a good start.

Sam

5th January 2004, 22:45

But basically if I wanted to lower my maestro I could just buy some lower springs and that would do the job fine? I don't have to buy new shocks or dampers do I?

MGTurbo

5th January 2004, 23:16

Originally posted by Sam
But basically if I wanted to lower my maestro I could just buy some lower springs and that would do the job fine? I don't have to buy new shocks or dampers do I?

Yes to keeping standard shocks with shorter springs if in good nick.

Gareth

Bertybassett

6th January 2004, 18:53

Hello Sam,

It depends on how much you want to lower your car? 25mm/35mm/45mm. It all depends. In my case i want to lower the car more, but i`m restricted by the sump. The only people who do uprated dampers for MMM`s are spax,leda etc. The dampers from KYB or sachs boge are just gas. Instead of oil dampers as standard. If you want you can get the shorter dampers in oil if you like. Oil dampers are cheaper then gas, but don`t damp as well. As an example, from the underside of the wheel arch to the floor is about 560mm on the back and about 555mm on the front.

Sam

6th January 2004, 19:19

It appears motobuild only do the springs lowered by 1" and 2"s. There isn't an inbetween which I would be more tempted to go for. I get the impression that 2"s might be a bit of a harsh ride at times, but 1" probably won't look much lower or make that much difference to handling. I probably won't get new dampers as my ones are in good nick anyway.

Has anyone got any photos of a lowered maestro?

John S

6th January 2004, 19:52

Has anyone got any photos of a lowered maestro? [/B][/QUOTE]

Here's mine. It has poly bushes, KYB (orange) gas shocks and 1" lowering springs. As all maestros ride too high the 1" kit will do nothing in the way of making it look Max Power but I prefer subtleness.

Sam

7th January 2004, 11:26

Looks pretty nice :) Has lowering it made much difference? What size wheels have you got on there?

Sam

7th January 2004, 11:33

Looks pretty nice :) Has lowering it made much difference? What size wheels have you got on there?

John S

7th January 2004, 12:16

Originally posted by Sam
Looks pretty nice :) Has lowering it made much difference? What size wheels have you got on there?

15" Montego Turbo alloys with 195/55/15 tyres all round and improve grip by the shed load. The car has a more positive handling feel instead of wallowing slightly round corners and there's much less body 'roll'. The only time it rattles inside the car is when I'm going over a rough road surface, other than that it's quite good. Some other wheels to look out for are made by Team Dynamics (special order, v. pricey)or look for some nice spokey ones from a TF.

John

John S

7th January 2004, 12:25

I'd really like a set of these (team dynamics).....

G51 NAV

7th January 2004, 12:35

Hmmm...I'd like them in silver. To my eyes gold wheels scream out "I really wanted a Scooby Doo but I could only afford its wheels and this Maestro". Just my opinion!

Sam

7th January 2004, 12:42

I do like those gold wheels on a dark car...looks good! Gives it that rally look.

I've got a white maestro and I'm thinking about getting some charcoal grey alloys (16") and lower it by 1", will look v.nice I reckon :cool: Does anyone know where I can pick up some alloys like this for a reasonable price?

Alloys and tyres can be v.expensive :(

Maria

7th January 2004, 12:47

The problem with Maestros is that the wheel PCD is an odd one, which limits the choice of alloys you can get. Your best bet is probably to look into the range available for MGFs.

John S

7th January 2004, 14:29

Originally posted by Maria
The problem with Maestros is that the wheel PCD is an odd one, which limits the choice of alloys you can get. Your best bet is probably to look into the range available for MGFs.

Am I right in saying the maximum size wheels you can have is 16" without modifications?

PS:I'd never put such big wheels on a diesel (kills acceleration) but I'm interested for future reference.

Alan the Vanner

7th January 2004, 17:32

Hmm, think I'll stick with the Monty crossies I got for my van. Subtlety you see.
I think those Team Dynamics jobbies are just the limit for a Maestro.
Anything else and it's a case of:
I wan me ride to be BLING ya na wa' I'm sayin?!:laugh: :laugh:

Maria

7th January 2004, 22:30

Have you changed your hubs, ATV?

malcsmaesty

7th January 2004, 23:26

I'll definately stick with my 15" lattice alloys ta very
much!!! :cool:

Alan the Vanner

8th January 2004, 09:59

Not yet. I have designed some adaptor plates for them to fit. Unfortunately, my ex colleague from my engineering training days who is still in engineering, who I hoped would make them for me is off work with a broken foot.:( Oh well, I need to sort out the axle and springs first.

onza100

9th January 2004, 20:29

just got these for mine in 17".
Im using adaptors from mike satur as i got fed up trying to find anything i liked in the right pcd!
I would try emailing kyb as you can get the shocks and springs much cheaper than moto-build prices.
My car is lowered 2" on 264mm shocks.

John S

9th January 2004, 21:18

[QUOTE]Originally posted by onza100
[B]just got these for mine in 17".
Im using adaptors from mike satur as i got fed up trying to find anything i liked in the right pcd!

Did you get adapters designed for an MGF or are they specifically for the Maestro? How much are they out of interest?

Sam

9th January 2004, 21:18

How much did they set you back, including the pcd adapters?

Would love to see a photo of your car if you can get one. I'm interested to see what 2" lowering with 17" wheels looks like :rolleyes: :cool:

onza100

9th January 2004, 21:38

the hub adaptors are designed for the mgf but i have been assured that they will fit the maestro. I guess i'll find out next week when i put them on! The adaptors also alter the offset. The wheels i got from my mate for £175 with tyres and luckly the adaptors make the offset bang on which could have big problem otherwise.

Bertybassett

10th January 2004, 18:10

Hi folks,

The hub convertors from Mike satur do indeed work on maestros and montys. My dad has a set on his. They do change the offset, so you might find that your tyres rub on the wheel arches. My 17`s should be going on soon. They have the right pcd so i don`t have to mess about. Its imnportant to get tyres that have a rounded tyre wall rather then square has that will help at the back. Of cause you might have to grind the arches back on the inside, which i will no doubt have to do with mine. I too am going for the lowered 2" on 17`s look.

Onza how is your bodykit coming along? I have evo side skirts on my car, and currently my car is lowered 2" on 16`s and the skirts arn`t deep enough for me. So i`m pretty sure that when the 17`s go on the skirts won`t be deep enough. I though about do another set and cut that in half and blending that into the existing skirts to make them deeper. That seems a lot of work though. I`ve seen a few sets of skirts for over cars which might do the job with a bit of alteration. It will be easier to fit a set of skirts from a nother donor car that are deep enough then blend some skirts together. I can then take a mould and a voila deeper maestro skirts! :)