Couple of A Series queries

[Rich]

I am currently stripping the A series engine out of the 1.3 van as part of its re-build.

The engine ran fine, but am doing a de-coke and clean before it goes back in and have found some anomolies!

Firstly, there is a resistor in line, with the temp sender. It looks like a factory item, but I have never seen one before on an 1.3, it was hidden in the engine mount hole, so I didn't see it until now. I wonder if this is why the gauge always read low? Has anyone ever come across one of these before?

The engine (under the rocker cover) is full of gunked up, hard lumps of baked on oil all around the rockers. Its also in the breathers. Its quite a pain to remove, can anyone suggest why this has happend, and what can be done to prevent it happning again?

The exhaust valves had no oil seals whatsoever. The inlet ones did (but they have hardend up and are knackerd), why would the exhaust valves not have seals? It looked like the head had never been off, the head gasket had an original part number embossed into it. I think this would explain why it burnt a touch of oil.

The breather hoses from the seperators have perished and have seen better days. I want to replace them, but am not sure what with. I was thinking of using clear braided pipe, like hose pipe, but am afraid this may not withstand the heat. Does anyone know where you can get the rubber pipe from?

On the plus side, its a leaded engine, that has been running on unleaded, the inlet valves are unmarked, and the exhaust valves are only very slightly pitted. So I am pleased the head will last quite a while longer!

TIA Rich

[B18 GPC]

I am currently stripping the A series engine out of the 1.3 van as part of its re-build.

The engine ran fine, but am doing a de-coke and clean before it goes back in and have found some anomolies!

Firstly, there is a resistor in line, with the temp sender. It looks like a factory item, but I have never seen one before on an 1.3, it was hidden in the engine mount hole, so I didn't see it until now. I wonder if this is why the gauge always read low? Has anyone ever come across one of these before?

The engine (under the rocker cover) is full of gunked up, hard lumps of baked on oil all around the rockers. Its also in the breathers. Its quite a pain to remove, can anyone suggest why this has happend, and what can be done to prevent it happning again?

The exhaust valves had no oil seals whatsoever. The inlet ones did (but they have hardend up and are knackerd), why would the exhaust valves not have seals? It looked like the head had never been off, the head gasket had an original part number embossed into it. I think this would explain why it burnt a touch of oil.


TIA Rich

Sounds like its been running a bit hot at some point - and someones put a resister in to give false readings to the guade , so the buyer {yourself} doesnt think of any problems on purchase..

id imagne the valve oil seals were left out on a previous rebuild..

unless there was a fault with the temp sensor , then you dont need a resister? eg - if the internal build up was shorting and over reading

if it was a sensor fault , why not put a £6 sensor in ?

hope this helps..

[threelitre]

The outlet valves do not strictly need oil seals, as there is no vacuum available to suck oil in - there are engines that don't have them, but I cannot say about the A-series. The oil consumption will in part come from the hardened seals on the inlet valves.

The deposits around the rockers would indicate to me that the car has been either run on very low quality oil for long periods or that oil changes have not been done as often as they should - probably both.

Regards,

Alexander

(now 50k miles on unleaded/LPG and counting....)

[E_T_V]

Valve seals are nothing to worry about, they are "optional" on the exhaust valves. I tend to put some on just incase but strictly they don't need to be there and weren't always fitted from the factory even on unleaded cars.

For the breather pipes I'd try and get some suitable silicone hose as you know it'll cope with the temps and the oil. The clear plastic pipes tend to go hard and crack when exposed to hydrocarbons for a long time, (NEVER use it for permenant fuel lines!)

[Rich]

Thanks for the advice!

It should all be back together again today.

I think that resistor may well have been for the original Lucas instruments. The fuel gauge light had stopped working, and the trip had jammed, so I changed them for Nippon Seki ones. I am assuming the Nippon ones, won't need the resistor. Will take it out and have a go.

The crud in the oil, must be due to lack of mantanance. I had to push it all out the push rod holes in the head, with a screwdriver, it was like trying to shift carbon. Hopefully, now I have cleaned it all out, with some regular oil changes, it won't happen again.

I hadn't thought of silicone hoses, I will have a look for some, could get some nice blue ones, and make it a bit chav like under there!:laugh:

Rich

[Peter J]

Interesting Thread. Are you replacing the crankshaft and big end bearing shells as part of the rebuild?
As there is no oil pressure gauge I was just wondering about how many miles they might last, and whether internal engine parts like this are still available for the 1.3?

[Rich]

Peter,

I havent touched the short engine during this, so its not a strict re-build, as such.

I have a new 1.3 engine which I could fit, but where this one has only done 65k and ran so well, I couldn't justify just throwing it away. If the valves had have been burnt or knackered, then I would have put the new one in. As it is, there fine.

I wanted to de-coke it, and replace the valve stem seals, and at the same time, re-paint everything, so it matches the newly painted engine bay. I also have a 5 speed box to fit, so I just did it all at the same time.

So far as parts go, mini spares seems to be a good place, they appear to stock every thing which is relevent to the 1.3 engine in the mini. So the majority of parts are available, also the old Morris Minor clubs have access to new parts.

Personally, I think for longetivity, engine parts for the Diesels and the 1.3 will pretty much always be available, with Diesel parts direct from Perkins, and the A series being such a world wide known engine, with many enthusiasts with them, not just in the Maestro.

The one I would be concerned owning, is the R series. Not many about, and not that well known.

Rich

[Peter J]

Interesting Reply Rich Thank You.

I don't think I have heard of the R series, and don't know what it is fitted in.

My 1.3 Maestro Van has done about 100,000 , apart from regular servicing the only work on the engine so far has been to replace a failed cylinder head stud (and therefore cylinder head gasket) and it still runs very well. Apart from the mileage it has done I have no other reason to think it might be worn, as I am a gentle driver, and it hasn't had an unusual amount of short runs or cold starts. I am just wondering whether it might be worthwhile to dismantle it and fit new bearing shells rather than risk running it until it fails as I am thinking about driving to Spain and back to visit relatives in it next year. I used to work in a garage in the 1960's, as I recall crankshaft and bearings only used to last about 40,000 miles then. Until I got the Maestro I changed my car about every 3 years so it didn't affect me, but I like the Maestro so much I have kept it since I bought it new in 1991.
I know engines last longer now, but I don't know how much longer. So I wondered if anybody has got one which has done much more than 100,000 miles without a rebuild?

[maestroman23]

peter...i've had two vans that reached 185,000 miles before i sold one of them off...engine still running like a dream although had it converted to lpg at 67k...the other one i still have which reached 180,000 before the big end went so purchased a brand new engine from Ledbury for £400...its now done another 125,000 and equally runs like a dream on lpg.By the way i was told if the big end goes its not worth repairing because of the cost..although if i was mechanically competant i guess it wouldnt cost much just time

[Rich]

The R series was the first 1.6 engine to be fitted to Maestros, but was replace by the S series.

My 1.3 LX did 120k on its original engine and box, and never missed a beat. It did smoke a bit on start up towards the end, but I put that down to valve stem seals. I did however mantain it very well, it had regular oil changes and coolent changes etc and even after being laid up for 3 years, it still started with a fresh battery.

I don't think your van having donw 100k is anything to worry about. The usual signs of a worn engine, would be smoke on startup, smoke when driving and generall lack of performance would indicate a problem. So long as you look after it, it should look after you!

Maestroman, what do you use your vans for to clock up those sort of mileages?

Rich

[steve smith]

lets see some pics of the van rich would be good to see to old thign again after i sold it on

[Rich]

lets see some pics of the van rich would be good to see to old thign again after i sold it on

There are lots of pictures of it on my phone/camera, I will start a new thread about it shortly and put some up. I don't think you would recognise it now......:eek:

[steve smith]

i would like to see it tho ......

[maestroman23]

Rich...i used to have my own courier business for 8 years but packed in 2 years ago...my mate who got me into courier work introduced me to a D reg maestro van back in 1996 and basically fell in love with them... 1000 mile round trip in a day was not uncommon and i think i broke down just 3 times in 8 years ... accelerator cable snapping/drive shaft and water hose busting...i don't know what it is about the van but it feels alot more solid than the saloon...probably the 700kg suspension springs.OF all the small vans made i still reckon it looks the best especially with alloy wheels

[Peter J]

Thanks for the info Rich and Maestroman, thats Good to Hear :)