Removing an MG Maestro centre console

[G51 NAV]

Just how the hell do you get one of these off?

Haynes manual makes it all seem so simple: take off the gearknob, take out the two screws from behind the handbrake, take out the two screws from under the trinket-tray, and Bob's your auntie's husband. Like hell he is :banghead: ! It STILL doesn't budge!

There's obviously no room for leverage at the front as it jams under the bottom of the dashboard, so I figured it has to be levered from tthe handbrake end. But surely to do that the handbrake gaitor must need to come off, and that seems to be secured from beneath like the gearstick gaitor?

I can't believe I can't manage this simple job without having to ask for help, but it just ain't budging! :shoot: It insults the frigging' screws which were so-called holding it on, because even with them removed it's going NOWHERE!

[D87 SMW]

I'll have a go at removing F170's centre console and see if I can offer you any fresh advice...

[D87 SMW]

John,

I take it you have removed all four screws (two at either end) and the gear-knob as well as handbrake grip?

Once you've done this, you pull the console back and up and push the handbrake gaitor down under the console. This does not come off with the console. It stays put.

Best of luck.

[G51 NAV]

Right, I've managed to get it off with sheer brute force: turns out it was screwed into the floor by an additional "after market" ( :giveup: ) screw, which wasn't immediately obvious.

Next question, how the hell do I get the new one on? If I put it past the handbrake, I can't get it past the dash, and vice versa. Any ideas that don't involve removing the dash? I get a distinct impression that when the cars were built this was fitted before the dash was...

[Jonathan]

I think from memory you have to slacken the handbrake off quite a bit and pull it right up to give just enough access.

On the subject of centre consoles, I could do with a set of retaining screws if anyone happens to have them spare.

[G51 NAV]

Do you ever start a job and then wish you just hadn't bothered? :laugh:

Jonathan, re the screws, if you have one screw that fits to take with you, you'll probably be able to get some from a hardware shop or even the garage which is restoring your MG :idea: They don't look particularly out of the ordinary. They seem to be the same type of screw whiuch holds the instrument-binacle in, but I haven't compared.

[D87 SMW]

John, did you get the new console on?

If not, why not just fit a CityX gaitor and have no console in there. :p

[G51 NAV]

John, did you get the new console on?

If not, why not just fit a CityX gaitor and have no console in there. :p No, now realising that just to fit the console I have to jack the arse-end of the car up and start faffing around loosening the handbrake cable, I think I'll wait til I can bribe assistance from a better-abled family member. I can now see why the p/o just screwed a new gaitor into the outside of the console...
...why not just fit a CityX gaitor and have no console in there. :p When I'm looking for more ideas for making my high-performance sports-hatch look like a peasant's hack, I'll know who to ask :p :laugh:

[Rich]

When I'm looking for more ideas for making my high-performance sports-hatch look like a peasant's hack, I'll know who to ask :p :laugh:

Just call it weight reduction:laugh:

[Simon]

You can slacken the handbrake cable without jacking up the back end, but it helps if you use waterpump pliers or mole grips on the adjuster. It is a pain in the bum to remove a console, especially if Joe Bodger has been there before. I've got a long VP Montego console on my car and that's even worse to remove!

[G51 NAV]

It is a pain in the bum to remove a console, especially if Joe Bodger has been there before. I've got a long VP Montego console on my car and that's even worse to remove!
Yeah, and as I've found out, putting the new one back is worse still!

[G Force]

it helps if you use waterpump pliers or mole grips on the adjuster.

I was reading this and wondered if everyone knew that the adjuster wheel was locked by a taper on the wheel itself. To unlock the wheel you just insert a flat blade screwdriver in the gap between the adjuster wheel and the adjuster body to gently prise the wheel away from the adjuster body. Once the adjuster wheel is unlocked pull the cable to increase the gap and the wheel can usually be turned by hand, unless the cable is badly corroded.

Hope that teaching granny to suck eggs is not the general shout:hide: but you never know someone may have struggled unnecessarily:D

[Simon]

Well whad'ya know! I've never done it that way but I know what you mean now. Little tips like that are worth more than their weight in gold!

Thanks once again Gary! :)

[SimonR]

Well whad'ya know...Little tips like that are worth more than their weight in gold!


Hah! Yes indeed they are. I was reflecting on that the other day when I read in the Haynes manual how to remove a starter motor on an Auto Maestro. It was all going so well until it said 'Manipulate the motor out of the car from behind the exhaust manifold'.

You *know* you're in trouble when Haynes manual starts talking about 'manipulating' stuff!

[G Force]

Well whad'ya know! I've never done it that way but I know what you mean now.

Great, I feel better about mentioning it now, hopefuly others will too find it of use.:)