Retro-fitting PAS

[Dean]

Hi all,

As first efforts to getting my DLX back on the road i've decided to fit PAS before I tackle (and bodge) the welding.

I've got all the parts I bought, ages ago, sitting in boxes in my shed. Has anybody on here ever done this job to a Perky?

Regards

Dean.

[Rich]

Oh yes! 4 times, and again tomorrow!

The hardest part is getting the PAS rack in, the normal one will come out easily enough, but the pas rack is bigger and the pipes will get in the way. You can get it in on the NA engine if you force it past the downpipe and scrape all the paint off the back of tghe engine bay, but its a bit hit and miss, I managed it once, but on TD versions the downpipe gets in the way and makes it impossible.

It is much easier to drop the lower arm down, and remove the stiffing arm thingy which links the sub frame to the car. Go in and out from the drivers wheel arch.

You should also have the union joint from rack to column for the PAS rack, and the plastic floor boot. Non power rack ones WILL NOT FIT as I found out the first time I did it!

Make absolutly sure the nut on the pump pully is really tight. I have had two of them work themselves off and knacker the pump shaft and pully. Best thing to do is to put a 12mm washer and ny lock nut on there, that way it will not come undone, and leave you trying to get a new pump and pully.

Obviously you will need to have the tracking re-set afterwards.

Any other questions feel free to ask, HTH Rich

[E_T_V]

Yeah, pretty much what rich said. I had the luxuary of having no engine in the bay when I put my rack in so that bit was easy!
When we fitted a PAS rack to Jons EFI we dropped the stiffening plate as it would be near impossible to do without lowering it (you don't need to remove it, it just hinges downwards). I too have had the pump nut fall off on my van so locktite is advised.

[Monty O]

Similarly, I lost a nut (ouch!) on holiday in France. Went to a tyre fitter who found a nut/washer and put it on for me.

Moral of the story; PAS? then check your nuts! (I am!)

...and why do squirrels swim on their backs? To keep their nuts dry!!

[Dean]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Is there any particular order that things should be fitted in? All i've got is a box of parts. I've never done anything as big as this before.

Also is it best to do the timing belt before or after PAS conversion or doesn't it make any difference?

I'm planning on doing this over Bank Holiday weekend which falls with my 6 day weekend. So i've got plently of time to skin my knuckles and swear a lot!

Dean.

[Rich]

Based on my experience:-

First of all, pull back the drivers floor pan carpet, and remove the steering column to rack union joint, and the floor boot.

Jack the car up, as high as you can, so both front wheels are up. Remove road wheels, and disconnect the tie rod ends. On drivers side, remove the strut bolts to the hub assembly then, remove the lower arm/sub frame to body bracket. Removing the strut bolts stops the strut pushing the hub/driveshaft down and will make getting the bracket bolts back in much easier.

Remove both drivers side rack bolts and the lower gearbox side bolt from underneath, the top gearbox side one is easier from above. Remove the old rack.

Put the new rack in, and bolt in. Then reasemble drivers side lower arm and strut etc.

Now work on the pipework, fit the two brackets on the solid pipes to the sump, the threads may be a bit gunked up so go easy. Fit the oil cooler next, you will have to remove the bracket which holds the coolent pipe from the rad up, then fit the cooler bracket at that end with the pipe bracket. Get the two ends for the pump in the general area of the pump mount while you do this.

Then connect the pipes to the rack, don't forget the double locking washer which goes on first, then bend the sides back up after to lock the unions.

The car can now be lowered to the ground. Now for the pump.

Remove the blank plate from the end of the camshaft. Theres a bracket which connects the air filter assembly to the engine. Remove this, and its more effort than its worth to jam back in later. Now the back plate of the tensioner assembly can be fitted. Then fit the spacer and pully to the camshaft, be careful not to overighten these bolts and snap them, there a pain to get out when you snap them, as I found out!

Fit the pump to the bracket on the gearbox adapter plate, and bolt it in. Now the pipes can be connected to the pump. Fit the pump pully losely, and try and fit a nylock nut to the pully. You won't be able to tighten the nut easilly, there is a special rover tool for holding it while the nut is tightened. So, fit the belt, and tension it right up, then tighten the nut on the pump as tight as you can. Re-adjust the belt tension.

Refit the plastic boot to the floor pan, and re-fit the union joint. Put the carpet back. Fill the pump slowly with fluid, and leave the level to drop for 5 mins or so. Top again and leave again. Top up once more then start the engine and turn the steering from lock to lock once. The pump will whine when you do this, and the steering will go heavy then light then heavy etc.

Re check the fluid level, I usually find it foams up, and the resivoir will be full of foam. Let this go down, then top up the fluid again again. Start engine and continue to turn lock to lock. Keep doing this until the fluid stops foaming, remains level and the pump is silent with your new super light steering!

Fit the belt cover, check for any leaks and its job done!

Timing belt will not interfere with this at all, and I would say do one before the other, but it matters not which way round you do it.

I also have some exploded diagrams of the system which say a thousand words which I can e-mail to you if it would help.

Rich

[Dean]

Can somebody do a check list of components please, I know for definate i'm missing the rack boot.

Can the non-power rack boot be modified?

Dean.

[E_T_V]

Steering rack
Rack gator where it joins the floor (although a non PAS one can be modded/bodged to fit)
Linkage universal joints thing that joins the rack to the steering column (it is different on the PAS to non-PAS setup) (Thanks tony for reminding me).
PAS pipes (both flexible and metal ones under the engine
PAS cooler
PAS cooler brackets
PAS pump
Belt covers
Belt (new one is advisable)
Belt tensioner
Cam pulley
Tensioner bracket thing that bolts to the block

I think that is about it.

[Dean]

Had a look through my goodies and I seem to be missing:-

PAS cooler
PAS gaitor
PAS UJ

On the hose/pipe front I seem to have 3 bits of rubber hose and three bits of metal pipe, if that makes any sense. One of the pipes seems to go back on itself. The pipes have seen batter days though, a little rusty.

Does anybody have the bits i'm looking for spare?

Dean.

[talkingcars]

The U shaped pipe is the cooler and goes in front of the main rad.

[Dean]

:woohoo: I'm better off than I thought. I was expecting some sort of radiator.

Just need to track down a gaitor and UJ.

Dean.

[mgdavid]

[QUOTE=Dean]:woohoo: I'm better off than I thought. I was expecting some sort of radiator.

Just need to track down a gaitor -----have to ask WHY?

Dan wrote: Rack gator where it joins the floor (although a non PAS one can be modded/bodged to fit)

[E_T_V]

Yes the PAS cooler is just a U shaped bit of pipe. If it is missing then you can make one up out of copper or steel pipe. I had a hydraulic place copymine when it sprang a leak.

The Gator bit can be bodged with some sawing and filing andthen using copious quantities of silicone goo! Mine hasn't leaked so far in many thousands of miles.

The universal joint linkage bit you'll need to get from a PAS car, there isn't a safe way to bode the original to fit unfortunatly. If you are getting the linkage then youmight as well get the proper gator whilst you are upside down in the footwell :D