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redmaestro
2nd February 2007, 01:36
:banghead: Oh why me??? :banghead:
I ordered a reverse switch, to replace my broken one for my 2L Efi. It arrived this morning at my local motor factors, as I was eager to fit it when I got home. Must admit, it only took a few minutes to fit and hardly got dirty doing it. "This is too easy" I thought to myself....... and then I realised....!!

When the ignition is on (2 clicks), the lights stay ON in neutral, 1,2,3 and 4 gear. It only switches off in 5th. Also noticed a fair bit of resistance when putting it into reverse - or is that the new switch needing to be "bedded in"?

Please help - this is really getting on my nerves. I've put strips of black insulating tape over the reverse lights to stop anyone driving behind me worring about a reversing car on a 60mph road.

Thanks Redm

talkingcars
2nd February 2007, 06:33
Please help - this is really getting on my nerves. I've put strips of black insulating tape over the reverse lights to stop anyone driving behind me worring about a reversing car on a 60mph road.

Thanks Redm

Unplug its wires from the loom!

ChrisM
2nd February 2007, 08:46
I'm no expert, but is it possible that the switch is now in the wrong way round? Sounds like it's working backwards!

E_T_V
2nd February 2007, 09:48
Something definatly isn't right there. As said unplug the bullet connectors that lead to the switch as a temporary measure (or remove the bulbs - as reverse lights aren't an MOT requirement).

redmaestro
2nd February 2007, 09:54
Something definatly isn't right there. As said unplug the bullet connectors that lead to the switch as a temporary measure (or remove the bulbs - as reverse lights aren't an MOT requirement).

Thanks for the quick replies. The switch has a bullet and spade connector (or a male & female) so is impossible to get wire up wrong. I'm going to look at it again today but dont have much hope. I am suprised to learn that reverse lights are not part of an MOT though. I thought all lights had to work - including reverse lights if fitted

E_T_V
2nd February 2007, 10:46
Nope, the only lights tested are sides, dipped, main, indicators, brakes and rear fogs. Front driving lights or fogs don't have to work. Neither do rear reverse lamps.

The wiring is usually two bullet connectors (one male one female) which has got me wondering if there is a wiring problem somewhere. (i.e. where has the spade come from?)

The switch is just a plunger which pushes against a shaft in the gearbox. The shaft has a change in height for when reverse is selected which activates the switch.

Also are you sure that the switch you have got is right? Does it look the same as the old one? And have you tested the old and new switch with a meter to see if they work as expected?

redmaestro
2nd February 2007, 11:00
I'm working on it now and the connectors are how you described it. One's a bullet shaped, and the other is the opposite one ( to fit around a bullet). These fittings are on both switches.

G Force
2nd February 2007, 11:57
Hi sounds like they have supplied the wrong switch or maybe a bit of the old switch is left inside the gearbox. Have a look at both switches side by side and compare the plunger hights of both.

Gary:)

redmaestro
2nd February 2007, 12:43
OK, just come back inside with some weird news. I managed to repair the old one - I pulled off the rubber grommet and managed to insert the broken cable back into it. Replaced the grommet and fitted the old one back into the gearbox and connected the cables to test it.

Now my old one works perfectly!!

Is it fair to say the new one is faulty? :confused:

G51 NAV
2nd February 2007, 16:42
It's fair to say it's not compatible. Swapping wires round on the connectors won't have done much, a switch is a switch: join the two wires together and the lights come on