Gearbox Linkage Troubles

[Ricky]

Can anybody explain the phenomena that are the gearbox linkages on the 5 speed Volkswagen box? I have set the reverse stop gap to the specified clearence (15mm), therefore having the selector lever in the correct place, but still I can't get reverse!! It just doesnt seem able to physically go over to the left far enough to get it and so therefore only seems to get first and second over there. I'ts an improvement on the previous situation where i had to engage the reverse stop mechanism to get first and second, but now i can get first and second by normal selection, as well as where reverse should be (albeit harder!). Where am I going wrong? This is driving me insane, i've done everything the haynes manual says and still the thing wont play ball!! :banghead:

Thanks for any help, and sorry if it doesnt seem to make much sense but i'm quite tired now!!

Ricky.

[E_T_V]

You are pushing the gearstick down when trying to select reverse aren't you? Hey just a thought :D

The other common problem is that one of the gear linkages pops off and leaves you with just 3rd and 4th gears. But doesn't sound like this is your problem. From memory this rod (the longest one) has a slight bend in it, might be worth checking that is isn't more bent than it should be or that no-one has straightened it out because that would move all your gears to one side.

[Mat_C]

The gear linkage for the VW boxes must the worst ever! The problem is the linkage bedding into itself, so when adjusted it all goes pear shaped.

If you look right at the back of the engine from underneath, you should see a box shaped selector level with a ball in it. This is where the bedding in occurs.

Don't bother with the specified clearance - its now changed. You have to keep experimenting I'm afraid!

[Maria]

A possibly similar thing happened on our race car after Chris did a gearbox swap.

To sort it out, he says he put the linkage where it should be, then slackened the bolts and rotated it counterclockwise (he thinks) until the "notch" went into the gearbox housing.

I'm transcribing from MSN, so hope that makes sense :D

[Ricky]

I think you may be hitting in the right area, but I can't quite understand what you mean maria, which bit am I rotating counter clockwise?? Is it the actual linkages on the gearbox housing, or the selector rod?? I can see the splines on the other end of the selector rod which I assume is bent correctly due to the fact that the old one is exactly the same, are these the notches you refer to? Believe you me Mat, I know the bit you are referring to, i've banged it off and on again so many times over the past couple of days!! I'm hoping continuous fiddling will sort it out in the end....!

And yes, I am pushing down for reverse!!!! I know I may have demonstrated that I am a few sandwiches short of a picnic (soaking cork in water, anyone?) but not THAT stupid..... I hope!!

Thanks for your help though, here's to specified clearences!!!:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Ricky.

[Maria]

The actual linkages, we think, but it's hard to explain without a pic. I wish my digicam still worked :(

[derek mclean]

I've found that if I adjust the rod that goes from gearlever to the bell-crank assembly it would always work eventually. The adjuster is near the bell-crank mechanism, somewhere about the suspension cross-member. It is like a very small exhaust clamp, a pinch-type clamp with an 8mm nut (13mm socket). You need to slacken that nut and twist the sliding joint that this clamp holds together. The rod is effectively split by this joint, and if it is not correctly adjusted it will give the symptoms you describe. Forget about book methods. Do it by trial and error.

You haven't fitted a 5-speed in place of a 4-speed, have you? If so, you will need to change the whole linkage and lever assembly. I'm not sure what the differences are, but when I did it about seven years ago it wouldn't work until I had swapped the lot. Then it worked a treat.

Derek.

[Ricky]

Yes thats the part i've been having a go at, its like a clamp on a funny box bit that locates into a ball joint. I am assuming that the funny box like rod cannot be adjusted anywhere due to the fact that neutral is only in one place, so therefore the only place for adjustment is actually at the gearlever itself? No way of adjusting it on the actual gearbox housing at all? I'm sure I will answer this riddle if I keep adjusting the bar in the end!! I have taken an engine and box from a 1.6HLS and put it into my MG1600, but I also took the selector rod and the bit that bolts on to the steering rack off of the HLS as well, so theoretically there should be no problems..... :banghead: :banghead: :rage:

Thanks again for your help,

Ricky.

[derek mclean]

There is no adjustment at the lever, but the front of the rod that leads from the lever is effectively the same thing.

It's not on the gearbox, but behind the bell-crank assembly. That's the complex bracket/lever/rubber pad thingy that's bolted to the bulkhead near the rack (from memory). Sorry, you've just said it bolts on to the rack. I can't fault that.

The selector mechanism in the box is designed to spring into the 3rd/4th plane, so it is quite forgiving in this respect. The reason any book methods don't work is that you have to compensate for wear, or amateur fiddling, hence the easy trial and error method of adjusting the pinch-clamp on the linkage.

Was the original box a 5-speed? I assume so, so you are right, there should be no compatibility problems.

I reckon if you keep adjusting the linkage it will eventually work. As I said, trial and error.

Derek.