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nicksmaestro06
24th April 2006, 22:28
:banghead: My CV rubber boots on my 1986/87 Maestro are toally dead all split etc so i have purchased 2 new ones £20.35. I went straight to he car to put them on and realised i did not have a spanner big enough to remove driveshaft or hub whatever its called anyway does anyone know what size spanner i will need to get the nut off. This nuts on both sides also appear not to have a split pin and never seem to have had one.

tony
24th April 2006, 22:38
some are staked, rather than have a split pin , that is on the outer edge of the nut it will have been knocked into a grove on the end of the drive shaft to stop it from turning(that is unless your split pins are missing)
i think its a 36mm nut, and they are handed too.

D87 SMW
24th April 2006, 22:46
32mm. You'll not shift that with a :spanner: either! Try a cross-brace on it with a 32mm socket - We just used some scaffolding to undo the hub nuts on my MG.

For the nearside you'll want to undo the nut clockwise and the opposite for the offside.

HTH :spanner:

MaestroTurbo
25th April 2006, 08:45
32mm. You'll not shift that with a :spanner: either! Try a cross-brace on it with a 32mm socket - We just used some scaffolding to undo the hub nuts on my MG.

For the nearside you'll want to undo the nut clockwise and the opposite for the offside.

HTH :spanner:

Wrong Steve, the front hubs are not handed, only the rear ones are. If you use a cross brace and manage to undo it i'd be impressed, ideally you need a two foot extension bar..

Monty O
25th April 2006, 16:26
Last one I did, my socket set would not shift it, so I hired a 1" socket and breaker bar, cost me £5...no sweat! might buy me one of those......

darrenandsarah
25th April 2006, 17:52
Shifted mine by applying steady pressure with an extension pole and then hitting the thing as hard as possible...

nicksmaestro06
25th April 2006, 21:38
Oh god your all making it sound like its gunno be a :censored: of a job all to put some blinkin cv boots on arghhhhhh! Well i will get round to it sooner rather than later then i need to fit my arches and new bumpers and possibly a new sill i have botched it today hehe

dave-mg
26th April 2006, 07:43
ive got an inch drive socket set(20 quid from the car boot sale)so all i use is a rachet and a socket,dont need bars or hammers lol.mind you the rachet must weigh a ton llf.:) ;)

e692wtt
26th April 2006, 13:30
'Split' boots have worked fine for me, for around a tenner each all-in.

It takes half an hour, only the wheel needs unbolting and no other dismantling.

Just don't glue yourself to the car (gloves come in the box).

nicksmaestro06
26th April 2006, 21:43
Can i not cut the ones i have already in half that i got from motoserv at weekend and get the glue?

B18 GPC
27th April 2006, 07:26
'Split' boots have worked fine for me, for around a tenner each all-in.

It takes half an hour, only the wheel needs unbolting and no other dismantling.

Just don't glue yourself to the car (gloves come in the box).


See if you can get a slippy sloppy one.. Put it in a watering can for 5 minuites full of boiling water , turn inside out.. put it OVER the cv joint.. by the time its shrunk down , it fits , and will have turned back 2 i nthe right way ... then cable tie away ;)

D87 SMW
27th April 2006, 09:34
See if you can get a slippy sloppy one.. Put it in a watering can for 5 minuites full of boiling water , turn inside out.. put it OVER the cv joint.. by the time its shrunk down , it fits , and will have turned back 2 i nthe right way ... then cable tie away ;)

Slippy sloppy? I'm afraid that's too technical for me. Why heat it up and turn it inside-out to put it on? Are you referring to the split boot kit or the full ones? Either way I don't see what you are getting at...

The split boot kit means you can fit the boot without taking the driveshaft off, which the full boot's require you to do.

MGTurbo#261
27th April 2006, 09:50
See if you can get a slippy sloppy one.. Put it in a watering can for 5 minuites full of boiling water , turn inside out.. put it OVER the cv joint.. by the time its shrunk down , it fits , and will have turned back 2 i nthe right way ... then cable tie away ;)

Are you by any chance an adviser to George Bush ? Iam off to Partco to ask for Slippy Sloppy one :laugh: I will let you know how I get on later

nicksmaestro06
27th April 2006, 11:37
Right okay i am not going out to get some slippy sloppy ones i already have some BUT if i got the glue can i cut these ones in half and slippy sloppily glue them bck together

POOH
27th April 2006, 11:41
this what i do
remove ball joint nut on bottom of hub
remove caliper
remove track rod end
undo two bolts holding strut

then completly remove with drive shaft
milk bottle top to cover oil from gearbox

so much easier

tegards stu

POOH
27th April 2006, 11:50
u wont need to remove the hub nut and get grief

when facin hub on the deck hold shaft take out circlip shaft will slide out
change the boot shaft should clic back in

i would not recommend split boots as they will reopen and u may not realize
ure cv will grind before u kno it

e692wtt
27th April 2006, 12:56
The 'split' boots have 'tongue and groove' edges (like skirting boards), so the surface area available for adhesion is probably 5 times that available if a normal boot was cut then reattached. The latter is therefore strongly not recommended.

I've never had a 'split' boot come apart on any of the cars I've used them on - any problems with a boot splitting/perishing should be noticed during regular (weekly for me) checks anyway :) .

nicksmaestro06
28th April 2006, 00:28
I got the hub nut off no problam at all just jumped of the socket twice and the nut loosned got the driveshaft off only to realise i dnt have circlip plyiers hehehehe so get them tomoz the really wazed me off oily for nuthin:banghead: :banghead:

G Force
28th April 2006, 12:17
Hi, circlip pliers are not needed for this job. The CV joint just knocks off with a mallet.

Cheers Gary :)

maestro vans
28th April 2006, 23:37
Yes Garys right, when I've done mine in the past I've taken the driveshaft and put it in a vice on the shaft nice n tight. Get a rubber mallet or club hammer and a block of wood and give a definate blow to the CV joint. The circlip will go into its groove allowing the CV joint to slip off the driveshaft. Must have done a good halfdozen of them over the years. Its easy once you know.....Let us know how you get on .

B18 GPC
29th April 2006, 07:36
Slippy sloppy? I'm afraid that's too technical for me. Why heat it up and turn it inside-out to put it on? Are you referring to the split boot kit or the full ones? Either way I don't see what you are getting at...

The split boot kit means you can fit the boot without taking the driveshaft off, which the full boot's require you to do.


Dont worry .. Its one of those.. saturday labour time saving things at work ;)

Saves having the Constant Velocity Joint Itself Off

D87 SMW
29th April 2006, 12:49
Erm, a 'Split Boot Kit'? :banghead:

nicksmaestro06
29th April 2006, 14:22
ITS ALL GOING HORRIBLY WRONG ive taken some circlip of at the bottom on the shaft where the cv is it giving more movemnt now it goes in and out but the bloody thing will still not come off and ive smaked and smaked it some more arghhh!

B18 GPC
1st May 2006, 11:16
Theres no surclips on the maestro ?

theres the ring by the end of the shaft.. you compress with a cable tie {cable rap , wire clamp , whatever you call it} ... slide the joint back over .. and cut off the cable tie when your done.. liek puting pistons back into a liner .. whose compressing clamp things..


And steve,.. theres nothign split about these boots i mean.. dont worry ;)