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D813YBB
24th February 2006, 16:33
I noticed fluorescent green fluid dribbling down from the rear suspension turret today. Upon removing the plastic trim over the shock absorber more fluid could be seen. Presumably this means I need a new shock absorber, so are they still available and is it a DIY job to replace it?

ChrisM
24th February 2006, 17:49
Yes, yes, and yes, I reckon... I've assisted changing rear shocks, only takes an hour or so... I say they are still available, probably not from a Rover dealer, eBay or an autojumble will be your best bet...

Wetfish
24th February 2006, 18:12
DIY. Yes as long as the bottom bolt hasn't seized. If it has be prepared for a long battle, wd40 (big can) and heat may be needed. If you can't move the bolt perhaps it's wiser to get a garage to do it.
HTH
HenryR

B18 GPC
24th February 2006, 19:18
Yep you have an issue there...

Nice and easy. using only PROPER spring compressors no halfrauds :censored:

no ratchet straps , etc etc ! .... Coils + Head = No head. {or Damage to other .. roofs.. windows.. etc..}

e692wtt
25th February 2006, 14:04
Yup, like previous posters said, it's a DIY job but don't skimp on the spring compressors - it is possible to kill yourself or anyone nearby if it all goes wrong, or at the least severely injure yourselves - or cause serious damage to a brick wall if you are unlucky, for example. But don't worry about that - invest in proper spring compressors with a sintered finish, and all will be fine :thumbup: .

Regarding the bottom bolt, start spraying it with Plusgas at least a week in advance and spray the thread, bush inside the trailing arm and bolt head. Do this daily (douse the whole area), and the bolt should come out easily on the day :) .

It's strongly recommended that Shock Absorbers should be changed in axle sets.

As regards buying Shock Absorbers, Motor factors can still get hold of them, but eBay is your friend and will be cheaper (I paid £25 delivered for a full set a year ago) :) .

BIGLAD
25th February 2006, 22:24
Yep you have an issue there...

Nice and easy. using only PROPER spring compressors no halfrauds :censored:

no ratchet straps , etc etc ! .... Coils + Head = No head. {or Damage to other .. roofs.. windows.. etc..}

You can change the rear springs on a (standard) Maestro without the need for spring compressor.They are not under a lot of pressure , as the fronts are.

B18 GPC
27th February 2006, 17:56
Has one of my posts been deleted off this threat.. about id advise the pair too , but thaught it was one of those things as a "money grabber" all us mechanics appear to be.. ?! and about the roof hole at work..

true.. wen we lowered the special we only just put the compressors on , for saftey ..

tony
27th February 2006, 19:20
Has one of my posts been deleted off this threat..
MOD NOTE
no , i have not deleted any posts, and i cannot see any that has been deleted.(deleted posts leave a trace)

MGTurbo#261
27th February 2006, 19:40
Has one of my posts been deleted off this threat.. about id advise the pair too , but thaught it was one of those things as a "money grabber" all us mechanics appear to be.. ?! and about the roof hole at work..

true.. wen we lowered the special we only just put the compressors on , for saftey ..

:idea: I think you might of been smoking something when you last replyed to this threat :banghead: :laugh: .. It will be the drugs and not anyone deleting your posts from the threat :laugh:

D813YBB
2nd March 2006, 17:07
I’ve just been informed by Partco that they have two types of rear damper for the Maestro as follows:

Gabriel 51411 157mm spring height - £25.59+vat
Gabriel 51028 181mm spring height - £20.28+vat

Could anyone shed any light on which version to get and should they be replaced as a pair or just the damaged one?

G Force
2nd March 2006, 17:55
Could anyone shed any light on which version to get and should they be replaced as a pair or just the damaged one?


Hi, you do not have to replace the rear dampers in pairs if you were fitting exactly the same unit as what is fitted to the other side. i.e unipart unipart, or monroe monroe etc. etc. and the opposing damper is in perfect condition. If you are not at all certain then you should replace both for the sake of saftey and ride quality. ;)

PS you do not need to use spring compressors on the rear. Only the fronts on maestro montego need compressors.

The spring compression on the rears is released well before the securing nut is removed, :)

e692wtt
2nd March 2006, 22:24
I’ve just been informed by Partco that they have two types of rear damper for the Maestro as follows:

Gabriel 51411 157mm spring height - £25.59+vat
Gabriel 51028 181mm spring height - £20.28+vat

Could anyone shed any light on which version to get and should they be replaced as a pair or just the damaged one?

I was told by my parts shop to measure what's on the car - but I can't remember if it is the spring height as part of the suspension strut, or diagonally from spring lower seat to the top of the strut as visible in the wheelarch when the car is on its wheels, or some more obscure dimension :o . Sorry!

As G Force says, changing like for like will be fine. If you can find the same make of shock absorber that is on the car now, this would be an easy way out of the immediate problem by changing just one :) .