A couple of mod questions

[redmaestro]

Now my oil leak has been cured, I am now looking at slightly mod'ing my E reg EFI. I have 2 questions for you all:

1. I bought a 5-20 BHP mod from ebay (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2429485396&category=32094). It arrived on Saturday but am not too sure where to put it. The instructions say to locate either the IAT sensor (????) or the coolant sensor plug. Where are these, and does this mod actually work?

2. Where can I get an eleccie window switchs which go underneath the car radio on the centre console? My local scrappy doesnt have any MG's etc. How much are they from Rover?

Cheers

Redm

[Mat_C]

I'm aware of the mod being sold on e-bay - it is a 5 pence resistor (4.7k). You are supposed to put it on the coolant sensor to make the ECU think the engine is cold, so when warm it will over-fuel.

Most mods work by making the engine more efficient - all this one does is dump in more fuel. IMHO it is a load of crap.

[TurboMG]

I cant believe anyone would actually buy one of them things, as said all it does is trick the ECU into thinking the engine is cold all the time when it isnt, to do the same thing on your EFi just disconnect the plug from the temp sender.

[TurboMG]

And the electric window switch unit is still avaliable form rover DRC 9109 and it retails at 109 pounds

[redmaestro]

This mod only cost £3.75, so im not too worried about it - although I am suprised that it seems to be totally pointless. If this mod makes a richer mixture - would this use up more fuel??

As to my window switch, i think I will keep checking the scrappies. £109 seems a lot of money for a plastic panel with a switch either side.

[MGJOX]

drop me a line i've got at least 2 spares!

[redmaestro]

Originally posted by MGJOX
drop me a line i've got at least 2 spares!

Hi MGJOX, I have emailed you my details. Check you Private Messages

Cheers

[TurboMG]

Yes you will use more fuel, also your car will be at your fast idle speed.

[MGTurbo]

And your car may also be slower as it will be overfuelling, you'll increase engine wear because of bore wash and basically its useless...

If you need any tuning advice contact Pegasus on MGMaestroTurbo@Hotmail.com.

Gareth

[TurboMG]

The electric window unit is not just a plastic panel with a switch either side, it is a box which contains various relays for the one touch operation and the opening/closing of the windows.

[Mike Brock]

I don’t know where you guys are basing all your facts from, is it from personal experience? As far as I’m aware adding a 5k-ohm resistor to the intake/coolant sensors - does indeed fool the ECU like you all say. However, it’s more like ignition advance that gives the power. If more fuel is delivered - due to sensor resistance change - then the value of that resistor determines fuel quantity as well as ignition advance (within ECU parameters!). In other words back off resistance until a compromise is meet. To be honest though a 5k-ohm resistor will only have marginal effect on fuel, and certainly will not cause bore wash etc!

I don’t know for sure if the efi O-series engine has the same intake sensor fitted as the turbo O-series engine. To fit the 5k-ohm resistor to the intake sensor (turbo) is easy. The sensor is not polarized which means it doesn’t matter what one of the two wires it connects to. It does work, but not as much as the claimed 20bhp gain!

Mike Brock…

[GK AutoWorks]

I don’t know were you guys are getting your facts from, is it from experience? As far as I’m aware adding a 5k-ohm resistor to intake/coolant sensors - does indeed fool the ECU like said. However, it’s more like ignition advance that gives the power.

AFAIK, no extra ignition advance is gained on the cold idle circuit on the EFI, only extra fuel is added, the injectors opening at twice the normal rate when engine temp is cold. If run in this condition for any length of time when at operating temperature, increased engine wear could occur. Thus if a resistor of a certain value was added to fool the ECU, only EXTRA FUEL would be added and a resultant loss of power when hot rather than any extra! I've done my homework on this one, so if you can prove to me ignition advance is added in addition to the extra fuel, i'll take back everything i've said.

BUT if it were fitted to an air temp sender (like our Turbo's have) it may add 0.001bhp but who's to say it would work in real life?

[Mike Brock]

ECU cold start circuits usually involve more ignition advance - as well as the extra fuel for easy cold starting. The stepper motor has something to do with it also on efi models. 5k-ohm resistor is really just a base line value, and shouldn’t cause over fuelling problems when engine reaches operating temp like you describe. Some performance enthusiasts I know add a 5k-ohm resistor at a time, (5-10-15-etc) until knock is detected, then back off a little for maximum ignition advance combined with certain racing fuels. I’ve personally removed intake sensor and bridged the wires with a 100k-ohm resistor, (ARG disconnected!) this tells the ECU the cars running at –30C or so, then run AVGAS 130 octane fuel for a real kick in your back power gains with your Maestro/Montego turbos!

I don’t need to prove anything, however, I do speak from experience with these things I say. I suppose it’s something you’ll need to try out for yourself as it were. :)

Mike Brock...

[H48HPE]

one thing i would observe about all these cheap performance mods is that if they were of any performance benefit, ARG would have put them in as original equipment. As it is, surely they would have set the carb and timing settings to be their best possible.

andy

[Mike Brock]

Hi Andy,

Car manufacturers always compromise with best fuel economy, emissions, reliability etc. So there’s always plenty scope for improvement for the dedicated go-faster enthusiast! That’s until something breaks that is - :eek: LOL

Mike Brock...

[Bertybassett]

Red Maestro,

If you want to improve the performance of your EFI I would recommend the following :-

1. 57i INduction kit or equilivant with 1 or 2 direct induction pipes directed onto the filter.

2. Swop your unleaded ECU for an leaded ECU or a Rover 216i ECU or motobuild adjustable ECU.

3. 3" straight through exhaust.

4. Piper cams (expensive)


These are tried and tested performance mods and are guaranteed to improve your performance.

Please note that this is based on a Engine/Gearbox and ancillaries in good condition/well maintained.

The other is to improve your suspension. Improving your suspension will allow you to tranverse bends, roundabouts quicker thus giving better performance. Uprating your brakes will aloow you to brake later etc.

A 2" lowering kit with gas dampers, poly bushes and a tightning up of your steering rack will do wonders for the overall performance. While your doing that I would definately recommend new ball joints and track rod ends.

Please contact me at robert.purser@btinternet.com for information.