Coughing at start

[redmaestro]

Hi All,

Looks like my EFi has got a new gremlin!! When the engine is cold, it is becoming a real pain to start. The engine & starter motor will turn as usual but when it fires, it coughs and splutters for a couple of seconds. But when the engine has started up, she ticks over like there is nothing wrong. Any suggestions to what might be up?

Thx

Redm

PS The spark plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm were all replaced last summer.

[G Force]

Hi, First thing I would look at is check and regap the plugs as they have been in nearly a year. It is not unusual to find that the HT leads are giving problems after only a year in service, so they can't be ruled out.

Check that you are not losing coolant, with no signs of an external leak. coolant entering the cylinders past a faulty head gasket can give the symptoms you have.

If the fuel rail is depressurising overnight then the fuel pressure in the rail may be taking a longer time to build up causing bad starting and misfire on start up. Try to prime the rail before cranking to see if it makes a difference. Ignition on (fuel pump should buzz) wait 10s turn off, wait 30s or until main relay switches off, then repeat another two or three times to be sure rail is pressurised, then start as normal.

Cheers Gary :)

[B18 GPC]

i think you get what i do on my 1300 .

When i start mine cold , with no choke.. (foot full down of corse) it will fire .. cough and splutter to about 1500RPm .. back down low , hold it flat out it will splutter to about 4000rpm.. and let off it returns to idle cold , about about 500 rpm ..

So anyhelp with be helpful to me folks..

however i always put it down to not getting enough running !

[MaestroSpecial]

So anyhelp with be helpful to me folks..

Ummm... Use choke?

:spanner:

[weasel2400]

Seconded - use choke ;)

[redmaestro]

Seconded - use choke ;)

Its a 2 litre EFi, with an auto choke. I have had the car for two years and this has only just started to happen.

Interestingly enough, I took 'G Force's' advice about "buzzing" the fuel pump a few times before starting the car - and it worked a treat!!! I have just finished an 8hr shift at work, followed his advice and the car started up earlier than usual without any spluttering or coughing. So I assume that the fuel rail has been de-pressurising. If this is the case, is it worth me looking at replacing some parts ie fuel pump, fuel filter etc

[ben rawlings]

what sort of millage has the car done?

ide replace the fuel pump but double check all the fittings as a forum members maestro caught fire recently due to dikkie fuel pump fittings.

im glad you think you've got it sorted.

[redmaestro]

The milage is just under 68,000 - not bad for an E reg!!

I did read a thread recently about a faulty fuel pump which was bought on ebay recently, so I think I will either leave it alone or get my local garage to fit one.

[Beaker]

Its a 2 litre EFi, with an auto choke. I have had the car for two years and this has only just started to happen.

I think Steve and Weasel were referring to Grayham's 1300 which does have a choke. :)

[E_T_V]

The recent engine fire suffered by one of our unfortunate members was possibly caused by a fuel line becoming detached at the pump in the engine bay. On EFI's the fuel pump is under the car just infront of the tank. If the fuel rail is depressirising overnight it could be many causes but it could be leaking/dripping injectors. Also worth checking as already mentioned are the HT leads. Is the problem any worse on damp days than dry days? If so then HT leads are a likely cause.

[E_T_V]

i think you get what i do on my 1300 .

When i start mine cold , with no choke.. (foot full down of corse) it will fire .. cough and splutter to about 1500RPm .. back down low , hold it flat out it will splutter to about 4000rpm.. and let off it returns to idle cold , about about 500 rpm ..

So anyhelp with be helpful to me folks..

however i always put it down to not getting enough running !

You'll soon kill your car starting it like that.

Start it properly using the choke. It also sounds like it needs re-tuning. If you can get it to idle at 500 rpm with no choke from cold then it must be running very rich when it has warmed up. I probably shouldn't need to say this but 4000rpm on a cold engine will wear it out in no time at all.

[MaestroSpecial]

You'll soon likk your car starting it like that.

Start it properly using the choke. It also sounds like it needs re-tuning. If you can get it to idle at 500 rpm with no choke from cold then it must be running very rich when it has warmed up. I probably shouldn't need to say this but 4000rpm on a cold engine will wear it out in no time at all.

Graham, my 1.3 requires full choke to start up, probably because it's getting on abit, but also has been tuned up to meet emissions regulations therefore isn't running that rich. I'd say get the carb tuned up, it's better to do this than put strain on the already worn engine because of a carb problem.

HTH

:spanner:

[G Force]

So I assume that the fuel rail has been de-pressurising. If this is the case, is it worth me looking at replacing some parts i.e. fuel pump, fuel filter etc

Hi, the fuel rail can depressurise for a number of reasons.
1) The fuel pump has a non-return valve that stops fuel draining back to the tank; if this goes faulty the whole pump needs renewing.

2) The fuel pressure regulator should hold the fuel rail pressure overnight if the regulator is not seating correctly fuel can drain back to the tank. The regulator can be bought separately and is easy enough to fit.

3) The injectors can leak fuel past the nozzle and the offending one or more would need to be renewed.

It is really easy to find where the problem is if you have a fuel pressure gauge but if not it is still possible but more long-winded.

When you park the car for the night etc. use a brake pipe clamp to clamp the fuel return hose, if the car starts ok next morning then the regulator is faulty.

If the car does not start any better, then the next time you park up clamp the fuel feed pipe preferably as near to pump as poss. The next time you start up remove the clamp and start the engine, if the car starts ok then the fuel pump non-return is faulty so you would need to fit a new pump.

To check for leaking injectors the easiest way is to remove the rail with pipes attached, dry the injector nozzles with clean tissue or similar and keep observing the injectors checking for fuel leakage.

Regards Gary :)