View Full Version : Springs & anti-roll bars
BIGLAD
17th May 2003, 13:47
Does any one know which models were fitted with front anti-roll bars as standard?
I have a Montego DLX that HAS one and a Maestro Clubman T/D that HAS NOT?
I think that the Diesel/MG/Gti etc have a thicker one (21mm) as opposed to the smaller engine ones (19mm)
Can any one confirm or shed any more light on this ?
Does any one have any information on Standard spring rates?
Thanks BIGLAD
:confused:
MGTurbo
17th May 2003, 14:12
AFAIK, all 2.0 litre Montego's were fitted with a front anti-roll bar. With the Maestro, 100% certain the MG's came with an anti-roll bar on the front, I am surprised your diesel doesn't have it. Turbo's had a thicker anti-roll bar than others. Pretty sure that the 1.6 Maestro also had the front anti-roll bar.
Gareth
Mat_C
17th May 2003, 16:35
1.6 Maestros do have a front ARB - If your clubman TD doesn't have one - stick one on!!
Did that to my 1.3L - best tenner I've ever spent!
e692wtt
17th May 2003, 23:10
I believe that all models from 1.6 engine up had a front anti roll bar, and they are easily fitted to 1.3 models (all the mounting holes are there, just get the parts from the local scrapper). A mate of mine with a 1.3 Maestro (N-reg, Apple 2000, converted from lhd before sale after sitting in a warehouse at Cowley) also says that getting the front anti roll bar and fittings from a scrapper was the best £10 he ever spent.
Mind you, my VDP Monty handled better than my 1.6 Monty even though one of the front anti roll bar links had snapped... due to front shock absorbers in better condition, I would say, because the tyres weren't the grippiest I had ever driven on.
The other other Rich.
E_T_V
18th May 2003, 00:29
Ok I've been wondering about this so how easy is it to retrofit the roll bars. Our 1.3 ex plod clubman doesn't have one and I'm sure it would help its shocking handling, (sorry about the pun). How easy a job is it? Will any maestro roll bar do?
Cheers
Dan
e692wtt
18th May 2003, 00:41
The most difficult bit will be retrieving rusty bits from a scrap car. The holes for the anti roll bar mountings will be ready-drilled on your car, and mounting rubbers and other mounting parts will be available at your Unipart (sorry!) Dealer 'off the shelf' if needed. You can be destructive at the scrappers to get hold of the anti roll bar because all the mounting bits can be bought from Unipart (if you don't mind forking out some cash) if you just get the anti roll bar form the scrappers and trash everything else.
Go for it!
The other other Rich.
topgear
18th May 2003, 15:06
Interesting subject here!
Will the 1.3 City x have an anti roll bar? About 5 years ago when i stupidly got halfords to put a complete new exhaust system on it, they had a big moan about how it would take so much longer because of the ARB!!?!? something which i could never quuite get my head around and something ive never really thought about since. But then, the mechanic also tried to suggest i had serious engine wear because there was a little bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust immediately after the exhaust was put on. "dont be stupid," i said, "thats just moisture or oil in the exhaust evaporating" plus it was a cold morning!!! at which point, he gave up the sales speak about having the car looked at in their workshop for a whole day!
If any of you hadnt heard the rumours a while ago, about halfords spraying oil on suspension struts and then making out they needed replacement... you have now!
What are your thoughts? Will you be using Halfords???
:p
Strandy
18th May 2003, 15:28
I've had some less than impressive service when it comes to Halfords and exhausts in the past. They once fitted a full new exhaust to a Calton we were using at the time... They took ages and then when finished the exhaust was obviously still blowing (from the manifold joint!)
We spent the next 10 minutes arguing - they claimed it was the gasket between the carb and the inlet manifold!!! using the excuse that it would have been disturped when a recent recon engine was fitted...
needless to say, they eventually re-did the exhasut joint... strange how the deafening noise cause by a air being sucked past the carb/manifold joint disappeared as a result!
Another time, I had an exhaust fitted to a mini (only because it was free fitting) and I noticed a louder than normal induction roar as I drove home... the cause? well, the air cleaner had been reloacated to the boot - maybe to maximise performance? Who knows? £22 well spent :laugh:
Austin-Rover
18th May 2003, 15:30
I don't like Halfords very much - every time i go i am always the only customer, which can make you quite uneasy. Plus some parts are always cheaper elsewhere - like private parts shops - where the service is much more friendly.
Reading what you have put about Halfords would certainly make me think twice about buying larger, mechanical parts for my car!
D87 SMW
18th May 2003, 23:38
I know what you mean about Half*rds. My Dad has to go in there to buy oil for the Astra. The prices are higher, but it is the only place he can get Du*khams oil from. Which reminds me, the oil should have been changed 6 months ago! :eek:
e692wtt
19th May 2003, 13:45
F170 GGT
There are several places around Bury that sell Duckhams oils. Email me and I'll send you directions, they're easy enough to get to. RDGelder will be able to let you know his own recommendations around Bury as well.
The other other Rich.
Austin-Rover
19th May 2003, 13:58
I bought a large bottle of oil from my local parts shop (Quines) and i paid £8. I cant see the point in paying extra for a brand like Duckhams, when the cheaper stuff i got works just as well.
e692wtt
19th May 2003, 23:13
I use Duckhams Q20w/50, costs about £8 from Alan Quine's, the place RDGelder refers to, because it reduces my Monty's oil consumption to around 600 miles per pint and is reasonable quality stuff. This oil consumption is no worse than it was 57,000 miles and 6 years ago as the oil gets changed every 4,000 miles/6 months. I've tried 15w/40 oils and been unable to see behind for the blue smoke.
Alan Quine's is on Parr Lane, Whitefield, Bury. Cross the M60 on the A56 Bury New Road from Manchester, and turn right at the third set of Traffic Lights (after approximately a mile, follow signs for 'Park 17' on the right) and then the shop is on the right after a mile at the most. Give them a go, they have a good range of products not just Oils.
Hope this helps.
The other other Rich.
:)
J199 HHG
20th May 2003, 12:53
I have to say that for a while I ran my Montego 2.0DLX without a front anti-roll bar, and I couldn't really tell any difference.
And I need convincing that having one helps the handling of the car - OK it might feel better, but does it actually help? (I am sure it must, I just can't figure out why)
Simon
20th May 2003, 23:45
Maestro Anti Roll bars: 1.6 saloon NAM 1186; models except 1600 saloon (which implies 2.0 models and diesels, not 1.3's) NAM 5676. So they are different. Different bushes too. A rear anti roll baris standard on Mg 2.0 EFi: NAM 4892.
BIGLAD
21st May 2003, 23:11
Thanks for all the info.
Do you have any info on spring part numbers/ rates Simon?
Simon
22nd May 2003, 23:39
2000 Diesel saloon front spring NAM 5554; Rear GSV 1097. A "heavy duty" rear is GSV 1129. No info on spring rates though, a suspension specialist would probably be able to help, and maybe have some obsolete stock if you want to, let's say, lower the car or upgrade the suspension.
threelitre
17th June 2003, 23:22
Hi!
I've fitted the ARB of a scrapped Montego TD Estate to my Maestro 1.3, and that made a very noticeable difference on cornering. And it looked stronger then the one std. on 1600 Maestros, so I was wondering... Ok, so they are different and I suppose that I fitted the strongest one available.
The car now leans considerably less when cornering and tyre squeal qill set in much later (using the same wheels). There is a large roundabout here in Aachen, easy to circle around ad 40mph. Before: loud squealing from front tyre(s), after: car feels much more stable and not a trace of noise...
Fitting was very easy, since I took all the fittings directly from the Montego before it went to the scrapyard.
The next mod was to use the Monty wheels. But they did only help comfort compared to the 155/80 13' std wheel, since the Monty tyres have been quite worn.
Regards,
Alexander
Wonko_The_Sane
18th June 2003, 10:52
Topgear- don't get me started on exhausts, shock absorbers and dodgy outfits..sigh...
When I had my Renault 11 auto, I took it to an outfit called "Apples car Clinic". It failed the MOT on "leaking shocks"..bit of a shock..so I nipped down the road to chat to a Renault dealer.
Renault dealer took a look, and came back to Apples with me..to state the fact that the dampers were sealed, thankyou so very much and as such COULD NOT leak, and were in FINE fettle. The oil on them was motor oil..NOT from my car. Half the work they'd said was needed was made up.
I took C370NUX to them a few times..each time they wanted to do things like "replace suspension", "New Exhaust", New driveshaft"..at one point they told me she was dangerous. Carnelian Rover (down the road) disagreed, and they retracted it.
They were in the papers and watchdog as well for dodgy dealing.
This company has since vanished and been replace by "Stop 'n' Steer"..same staff, different name (I'm pretty sure). Never going there again.
Then Peugeot rapid fit worked their magic on H870's exhaust. After ordering the wrong one 3 times (since when does "Rover" sound like "Vauxhall"?), they got the right one, and fitted it. 3 days later it was blowing..so back it went. Twice. Second time I asked to be present to oversee the Job.
Witness one spotty adolescent looking at the first joint after the expansion box..I see a 5mm gap where the sections have seperated due to crappy clamping. I expected to see him tighten the clamp. No..He grabs a tube of "silicone sealer" (window sealer basically) and proceeds to plaster that over it!!:eek:
Same as they did the previous 2 times. I suggested maybe reassembling the exhaust with EXHAUST paste might be good..and got "nah mate..this works..we usually use this..".
I drove H870 away and removed and rebuilt the system myself, WITH paste and clamps tightened. No problems since.
Too many cowboys out there that assume we're thick..:banghead: :banghead:
John S
18th June 2003, 10:57
I recently had the local Vauxhall dealer to install some Motobuild 1" lower suspension kit. All I can say about it is that the kit would be more beneficial on a MG1600 or 2.0i/Turbo but it seriously improves looks. Don't count on improved ride quality from lowering, but I found it wasn't really any worse as my previous shocks had covered ninety odd thousand miles and the suspension bushes weren't brilliant.
You gain better traction with the lowered suspension (front end doesn't rise so much) leading to better acceleration as well. The cornering is unbelievable!
Motobuild Price list:-
8 piece polyurethane bushes : £88
Set of uprated gas shocks/Springs 1"/2" : £250
As you can see - quite expensive but will transform the driving experience of most models.
John S
18th June 2003, 11:02
Exhausts? When my M.O.T. came up last year I stuck some chewing gum in a hole near the backbox joint then blackened it. It passed so I was able to get some suspension parts with the money instead!:D
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