Turbo Diesel Water Pump

[fastrack]

This thread was in the old forum and having begun the ordeal at last of replacing this water pump I've come unstuck already:
What is the best way of jamming the fanbelt pulley to unscrew that pulley's four nuts? I've got 8 mm spanners and sockets but there must be a way of jamming the pulley with them?
BrianJ

[topgear]

Try a hotdog, that should do it! ;)
No, being serious.. i did this job on my 1.3 a few years ago, and i jamped the pulley with a pebble, not the best practice i know, but it worked.. think it was probably just luck tho!

[E_T_V]

Or undo the bolts before you take the fanbelt off which is how I did it I think. But come to think og it I remember using a spanner across two of the bolts jammed against the engine mount.

[fastrack1966]

DAY ONE

Many thanks for the pulling the pulley ideas. There was not enough tension in the fanbelt to help me jam the pulley. Tried a selection of Hastings pebbles, less grip, so I looped the fanbelt round one pulley for friction, hammered a pebble between the pulleys and the nuts were off, first hour gone.

Inserted one timing pin into the camshaft, two others 180 degrees apart through the injector pump pulley. However my authentic Rover manual says glibly to “Remove the crankshaft pulley”. That pulley has four allen bolts, they’re the easy bit.
However I was turning the engine with the large nut in the centre of the crankshaft pulley prior to pinning the timing and even with the camshaft and injector pump pinned the crankshaft pulley nut won’t shift. If Rover has “Remove Crankshaft Pulley” as Step 4 then how can we do their Step 5 “Turn the crankshaft clockwise” if the crankshaft pulley and it’s nut are on the ground?
The other puzzle is how to pin the flywheel. The manual offers a small insert-diagram but does not make clear from where the insert is taken in the bigger picture of the timing belt mechanism. I assume the flywheel is the opposite end of the engine to the timing belt, nearside, and I can’t see this ‘Ole or it’s blanking nut anywhere.

[fastrack1966]

1) Locking the crankshaft:
I found my way to Sealey tool suppliers site and it seems I should look for the crankshaft pinning access behind the starter, when the rain stops. Assuming my pinned camshaft and injector pump are holding piston 1 at TDC (are they?) am I running a risk by removing the timing belt without crawling under the starter and pinning the flywheel? It would take some jolt/force to turn the engine accidentally, though I am aware that even a small movement could leave me on a tow to a garage.
2)Crankshaft pulley:
Would the belt slip over and round the crankshaft pulley if it's off the other two pulleys and tensioner? That means the crank pulley could stay put and lessen the risk of my moving the crank.
BrianJ

[BIGLAD]

The crank timing pin location is on the FRONT of the engine. It is a small hole in the aluminum conversion/adapter plate that is bolted (to the engine) between the engine and gearbox.
Follow the oil filler neck down where it bolts to the block and the hole is to the right of the filler neck. I'm pretty sure there is a raised (circular) piece of auluminum, about 2mm high that is used to locate the pin hole.:)
BIGLAD

[fastrack1966]

Thanks BigLad......I took the risk of swappping the belt and pump without locking the crank and with everything back together the
engine actually runs. I used a hefty pen to mark the crank pulley
in case. I took the timing belt over the crank pulley without having to remove the pulley - details available to anyone who is relaxed about cutting the bottom off the plastic belt cover and bodging it back!
One misgiving still - the belt I bought is identical to the old one, but the tensioning is a mystery - I'm sure it's looser, yet I've refitted the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley. When I removed
the tensioner pulley I'm sure the allen bolt was on the right at
about 3 o'clock and the tensioner adj hole opposite at about 9 o'clock.
However to get the new belt taut I've turned the allen bolt and the tensioner pulley so much that they are now the opposite way round,
i.e. the bolt is at 9 o'clock so the pulley is imposing more of it's size onto the belt to squeeze it inwards. Wiggling the belt in the inspection hole up top it moves between 1/4 and 1/2 turn - seems
looser than the old one to me?
Naturally this means full tensioning with nothing left for future adjustment - on a new belt? I've no intention of driving with a belt like that so any advice would be appreciated, thanks everyone,

Brian J