New Clutch

[SimonR]

Now that I have the new engine I've got a few more things to think about. The first is the clutch. Shall I just buy a unipart one - there were a few advertised at very good prices on eBay - or is there a better type from a different company?

Also (showing my ignorance here) I'm guessing that when I've bought a clutch, all I have to do is bolt it on the correct end of the crank shaft...? Obvioulsy I'll be reading the Haynes before I so much as lift a screwdriver but will I need to buy anything else clutch-related?

Gearbox-wise do you think that simply cleaning the current one will be enough? - I changed the oil about 3,000 miles ago and it seems to be fine. I expect that the casing that is near the crank case will prolly be covered in engine oil, due to my current engine haemorraging the whole time. This won't have damaged anything on/in the gearbox, will it?

I've already messaged Simon about the parts for the oil breather, so check your PMs Simon! Strangely, the parts CD ROM doesn't seem to mention the later oil system. I certainly can't find any mention of an oil filler in the camshaft cover anyway...

[John]

I think thre's a bearing called the release bearing or something like that, I always replaced that on rear wheel drive cars but don't know the system on front wheel drive, must be similar though

[E_T_V]

You can buy clutch kits which contain the clutch friction plate, the big metal pressure plate and clutch release bearings.

People always try to sell you the whole lot, which may be what you need in this case, but it is much cheaper to get just the friction plate as the pressure plate never wears out on most Meastros (well not the 1.3's and 1.6's we've had. If it is for a 1.3 engine I've got a practically new one (6,000 miles) on my spare (defunkt) engine in my garage which you could have, but they are usually so cheap that it isn't worth the hassle unless you are in the area sometime.

The VW gearboxes are ultra reliable and so long as they have got oil (in the right place of course) will run and run. Just clean your old one up (don't breath any of the mess inside incase it has asbestos in) and you'll be ready to run.

Just a litle tip to that might help. It is usually easier to join the engine and gearbox up then lift them in together if you can rather than have to try lining everything up whilst in the car.

[SimonR]

Thanks Folks, good advice!

On this occasion I'll prolly go for a complete kit, just so that I can be sure that I've done a thorough job. I now know what parts I'll need to buy!

In terms of manufacturers, is there any particular one to go for, or would Unipart do? I guess it's done for the last 115,000 miles! Although it does slip occasionally but I've put this down to oil escaping out the crankshaft oil seal and getting onto the plate.
It's a 1.6 S-Series engine, btw.

[E_T_V]

In my opinion they are all pretty much the same, (and are probably made by the same people anyway!) 115,000 sounds about right. Mine was changed at 105,000 because it was worn out and oiled from a leaking crank seal, and that is after heavy use during it's life as a plod panda car. So 115k sounds about right. It might be worth checking your new engine as it might already have a pressure plate on it and that is the expensive (comparatively of course) bit which you won't need if it is new! I think I paid about 20 quid for an exchange friction plate. The whole kit was around 60 quid I think but that was some time ago so I could be wrong.

[SimonR]

Fantastic, I have a bid on a new complete clutch kit on ebay for £15 quid... Thanks :)

I also saw a Maesty 1.3 VW gearbox for £50. Now, I think I know the answer, but is this the same part as a Maesty 1.6 S-Series VW gearbox? - I wondered if the ratios are different.

I seem to remember that it is the same part tho...

I've got a couple of days to bid for it.

[SimonR]

Ug, time's running out!

It was for a 1995 1.3 Maesty, if that helps :D

[Jonathan]

I'm pretty sure they're identical except obviously the MG1600 'box which had different ratios. The parts catalogue only lists Transmission 5-Speed 1300cc/1600cc rather than separately.

[SimonR]

Thanks Jon - I'm pretty sure you're right. I've bid on the item anyway, so fingers crossed!

It's only £49 so I've not made too bad a mistake if it's wrong.

[MGTurbo]

The 1.6 gearbox had different final drive ratios and is likely to affect overall performance but expect a gain in economy and quieter cruising.

Gareth

[SimonR]

Thanks Gareth!

I won the auction so am off to Wolverhampton on Saturday to collect the gearbox. One final question tho:

How difficult is it to swap the final drive components from one box to the other?

The main reason I want to change my gearbox is that while I have the chance I'd like to iron out any possibilities of component failure. I have experience of MaestroMatt's old silver Maestro which developed a very disconcerting sound due to worn gearbox bearings and my current box is about the same mileage and has probably not been treated much better.

I'm guessing that it'd not be a very big job and also that the parts I'd be transferring would not likely be very worn, being final drive..?

It'd be nice to preserve F153's character even though I'm replacing so many parts....

[E_T_V]

Those VW gearboxes do go on forever so long as there is oil in them. (the driveshaft output seals sometimes go). If I were you I'd just use the whole new box as it is, (plus oil of course!! :) ) The most fiddly bit is putting the driveshafts on as you have to lie under the car in the most awkward position unless you have a pit in your garage of course. Join the two up on the floor and lift them in as a unit into the car, (much easier than trying to line them up in the car).
The whole job should take you a day. If you compare the stampings on both your new and old gearboxes you'll see if there are any differences in final drive ratio. Unless your old box has sprung an oil leak it'll be good for 200k miles, ours certainly were.

[MaestroMatt]

Unless your old box has sprung an oil leak it'll be good for 200k miles, ours certainly were.

Not necessarily true - as F153 says, the box in my last 1.3l started making a horrid sound in 1st and 2nd due - I was told by my mechanic - to worn bearings. This was at about 110k.

[MGTurbo]

Wouldnt bother swopping diff's. A lot of time will be needed on setting up pre-load/shimming etc so leave it as it is.

Gareth

[Simon]

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Simon1