crank help please

[JonCooper]

doing the water pump on a Monty TD

everything was going well untill we got to the big crank pully bolt - really tight and had to pull extra hard on the spanner - think the belt jumped a tooth

the cam is pinned through the little hole

the pump timing mark is lined up how Haynes says it should be

can't see any way to see / set where the crank is set - is there a mark anywhere? should it have been pinned somehow? can I set it right without taking the head off to find TDC?

help please ...

[JonCooper]

update ~

I have re-read (more carefully) and found out I should have put a locking pin into the flywheel, if I turn the crank about 1.5 teeth I can get a pin in there and not move the crank any more

think this is back in line now or am I in the **** still ?

[JonCooper]

update ~

\o/ yay \o/

pin in the crank was right, cam had it's pin, lined up the mark on the pump, re-assembled everything, turned everything to see if anything fouled, turned the key and VROOM!

very happy - new water pump, new timing belt, new diesel lifter and it all seem to run better and quieter than before

[skipweasel]

can't see any way to see / set where the crank is set
If it's any consolation, it took me ages to find the hole for the crank locking pin.

[JonCooper]

I can understand that, it's no-where near where I was working

[skipweasel]

I can understand that, it's no-where near where I was working

I must have misread the Haynes Book of Lies several times - or it's not well written. I was looking at the back of the engine.

[JonCooper]

heh, me too, it does seem deliberatly hidden ;)

[bjr]

As the waterpump is the achilles heel of the perkins prima I've had the privelege of fitting three of them, two montegos and a maestro.

Every time I have the crank bolt sorted in seconds by using a 24mm impact socket (although any hexagonal socket will do, rather than a nasty bolt-ruining twelve flatter) and a socket bar long enough to reach the floor. Clip the bar into the socket and postion the socket fully and squarely onto the crank bolt at such an angle that the bar is pointing towards the front of the car, preferably on the ground or just above it. As the engine rotates clockwise if held still the crankbolt will effectively turn anticlockwise and loosen. Turn the engine over for an instant on the starter but do not allow it to start and..hey presto the bolt is sufficiently loosened to undo it later. I would not advise trying it with an ordinary half inch ratchet as it is liable to break.

[skipweasel]

Every time I have the crank bolt sorted in seconds by using a 24mm impact socket (although any hexagonal socket will do, rather than a nasty bolt-ruining twelve flatter) and a socket bar long enough to reach the floor.
I just used a socket and got a mate to stick his foot on the brake while it was in fifth. Worked fine for me - but then I'm the sort that bends breaker-bars.