Time Warp Maestro to remain in the fold...

[Ed]

Hi Guys

After much discussion, grilling, shuffling, death threats and logistical nightmares, I have been convinced to keep the Maestro. The Ebay listing will end later today as a friend had listed it for me. I have no plans to use it on the road, certainly not until it is a bit more reliable as at the moment I wouldn't rely on it to get to the end of my driveway! As far as I can see, the car has two major issues that prevent it from being a great car for me:

A: The bulkhead is rotten and the foot wells fill up with water very quickly when it rains. I took the inner front arch liner out last weekend and nearly passed out when I saw the extent of the rot behind it. :horror: I am very nervous about this!

B: The car cuts out when warm if you don't keep the revs up, then it is an absolute b*tch to restart and you can sit there for 20 mins trying to restart it.

Does any body have any tips on the above problems? Particularly the second problem as A is more then likely the need of a good welder!

Cheers

[Austin-Rover]

Glad to hear it Ed! As the person who awoke it from it's slumber and saved it from death, it's only right that you should keep it and give it the love it deserves.

:)

[Ed]

Glad to hear it Ed! As the person who awoke it from it's slumber and saved it from death, it's only right that you should keep it and give it the love it deserves.

:)

Thanks Rich. If I can get its problems sorted out and get it running properly then maybe I have a chance of bonding with it. Although this car has quite a story, I still don't feel a connection with it. I'm hoping this will come when she stops being a stubborn ox! :laugh: She is cute though I will give her that!

can anyone help on the cutting out/restarting problem?

[dutch-van-driver]

I'm no expert but could it be vapour lock? But in that case it should be a more common problem I guess. Or is the fuel-pump old and doesn't give the fuel the engine needs.

I just drive diesels so....

Marc

Maybe some pointers.

[Ed]

I'm no expert but could it be vapour lock? But in that case it should be a more common problem I guess. Or is the fuel-pump old and doesn't give the fuel the engine needs.

I just drive diesels so....

Marc

Maybe some pointers.

I did wonder if it might be the fuel pump. I have a new "old stock" item for it in my stash so I'll put that on tonight and see if it makes any difference. I need to change the rubber fuel pipes too as they are getting brittle and perishing at the ends. Is there any way of checking to condition of the auto-choke setup?

[Dave]

Early R-series suffered vapour-lock due to the carb overheating... I believe later ones were fitted with a small cooling fan?

Can someone more knowledgable about 1.6's shed some light on this.

Dave

[E_T_V]

I always thought it was just the MG varients that suffered from vapourlocks due to overheating carbs, but I may be wrong. If the rubber of the fuel lines has perished there is a fair chance that the rubber diaphram in the fuel pump pay have done so too. (Does your oil smell of petrol by any chance?) If so replace it ASAP as petrol in your oil is a recipe for disaster!

For the auto choke check the condition of the O-rings (these may have swollen or perished). Also while it is out of the carb you can turn the ignition on and off which should activate the motor and turn the brass barrel around. (you'll see what I mean when you take it off).

[MaestroMatt]

It was just the MG varients that suffered - my R series has no cooling fan on the carb. It could be a problem with the auto-choke. Replace/service the stepper motor and replace the rubber O rings with some new viton ones.

[Ed]

I've just fitted the new fuel pump and I have to say that the engine started instantly for the first time whereas before it took a couple of turns. I checked the oil and it doesn't smell of petrol. Would it be an idea to change the coil and the ECU to see if there is any difference?

Meanwhile, I have uncovered the extent of the bulkhead rot... please look at the pics below and someone please tell me it can be repaired!!! :horror: With rainy days coming, I really need to get this sorted asap. :banghead:

[MGTurbo]

Well it aint pretty thats for sure ands the dash will have to come out, but it looks like once the dodgy bits are cut out, a number of sheet steel pieces tacked in at first would do the job. Then finish off with seam weld and then seam sealer. You just gotta be brave and get the angle grinder out! :laugh:

[Ed]

Well I have to admit, I love the angle-grinder, it has become a good friend recently while doing the Countryman restoration although that car has not got anything quite as bad to tackle as this. Think I will begin the dash disassembly tomorrow after work. Even if I can't get it running properly, it will be nice not to take a swim every time I open the door! :laugh:

[Ed]

...and I've never welded so maybe this may be a good time to learn?! :worried:

[tony]

angle grinder mmmmmmmm

[G Force]

Hi Guys

B: The car cuts out when warm if you don't keep the revs up, then it is an absolute b*tch to restart and you can sit there for 20 mins trying to restart it.

Does any body have any tips on the above problems? Particularly the second problem as A is more then likely the need of a good welder!

Cheers

Hi, Have you checked the vacuum switch on the carburetter, (the little valve with 3 pipes connected) remove the valve and suck on the single pipe side, if you can suck through it or you get a mouthfull of petrol, It is probably causing a large chunk of your running prob.

Cheers Gary :)