Rogue Wire in engine bay of 1.3L

[SimonR]

This is a point of interest rather than a cry for help but I'd like to know the answer anyway!

On the 1.3 that I got for a mate, there is a wire that someone's added which goes from the battery positive terminal, across the front of the car, and is joined (by use of blue spring clip thinggy) to one of the wires that goes to the temperature sender that's screwed into the radiator.

What the hell is it there for?!

It makes me think that there's a fault that someone's bodged....

[D87 SMW]

'fraid I cannot help with that question, although I can say that I have a few of those myself, on the MG... :banghead:

Take a look at the photos, this is why I will probably be replacing the whole wiring loom. :worried:

Image 326 is one of those blue clips on the headlight wiring. No idea why that should be there...

Image 314 is the collection of blue clips which were used for the towbar wiring... Towbar now been removed.

Image 327 is behind the indicator stalk, and again, I have no idea why those blue clips should be there. :worried: The indicator stalk will be replaced.


I hate wiring. :( :censored: :banghead: :rage:

[H48HPE]

Simons question first:

Someone has wanted a 12V feed switched on when the coolant temperature reached a high level. My thoughts would be that this has just been to feed the radiator fan, possibly because the loom wiring to the fan has broken in the past and is possibly still broken now. it does however not sound ideal, because how is this supply fused? if there was a fault there would be a very large current flowing through a small wire, this could lead to a fire. It may have an inline fuse which would solve this, if it hasnt get one put in!!

Andy

[H48HPE]

Steves question:

for a start picture 327 isnt behind the indicator stalk its a picture of the battery terminals. :nonono: ;)

anyway has this car got an alarm system? if it has I would think the connections around the steering column and at the battery could be to do with this.

As for the ones around the headlights; I have no idea, but if they work Id be tempted to forget about it.

The connectors in the rear wing are for trailer electrics (as you know) but shouldnt be hard to sort out. just pull back all the wiring from the towbar, and cut it off, then crimp the original cables back together.

Andy

[D87 SMW]

... my mistake. :o

Yes the car has an alarm, it's a Sparkrite unit, like the one we had fitted to the Astra. It's a simple one, shouldn't affect any wiring behind the indicator stalk. :worried:

I want this car as "original" condition as I can get it, apart of course from the alarm and immobilisor (separate). This means I want the wiring to look like it did when it was new, as well as the body/interior etc.

Basically on the same scale as 'GGT.

My god, have I got a job on my hands! :worried:

:horror:

[SimonR]

Image 326 is one of those blue clips on the headlight wiring. No idea why that should be there...
I hate wiring. :( :censored: :banghead: :rage:

The alarm doesn't flash the headlights when armed does it?

I used to have a similar one in F153 but soon removed it.

[D87 SMW]

The alarm doesn't flash the headlights when armed does it?

I used to have a similar one in F153 but soon removed it.

Indicators flash when armed and disarmed, but I don't know about when the alarm actually goes off. I suppose it's just the indicators. Headlights didn't flash with the unit we had in the Astra.

:worried:

[SimonR]

Now we've sorted out Steve's wiring problem on my thread, has anyone else got anything to add about this rogue wire? :)

Thanks to Andy for his ideas - I'm getting the car back from the MoT place sometime in the next couple of days - depends on whether or not it passes - and I'll take a look.

By the way: You're right Andy - either way I'll certainly add a fuse!

[E_T_V]

Check the fuse for the fan in the fuse box. I'll bet it is melted. remove the "new" wire from the battery and the thermostatic switch in the radiator. Free up the fan by removing the grille applying a little oil to the spindle and giving it a good spin or applying 12V to it to turn it. Then replace the original fuse and short out the original wiring to the thermostatic switch. (This will spin the fan hopefully). Quite often the fans seize and when they try to turn draw too much current and melt the fuse. (This could make people think there is a short in the woring loom so they bypass it with the extra wire).
Either that or someone wanted the fan to continue spinning after the ignition has been turned off. There is a couple of possibilities for you.