rear shock absorber choices?!

[jonhamil]

Hi there,

I need to replace the rear shocks on my 2.0 Turbo Diesel. I have approached two factors who tell em that there is a choice of hydraulic, auto levelling, air etc. If I go fro the hydraulic as I would expect to, there is a choice of two 'measurements' 160mm or 179mm. What do these mean, and how do I tell which one my car is?! I believe thay may be a diameter measurement, in which case, is it easy to get a circumference measurement of the shock traveller, to calculate the diameter?

Is it difficult to change the shocks?

Cheers,

Jon

[Mat_C]

The measurements they're refering to is the distance from the lower spring pan to the centre of the lower mounting bolt. Rear shocks will either come off easy as pie, or you'll have to loosen the lower bolt off slightly, hacksaw through the bolt (nearest to wheel), grind off the head of the bolt, remove shock, saw in a groove intro remains of bolt and remove with a screwdriver. The bolt can corrode (read weld) itself onto the metal collar in the shock bush.

http://www.kayabaeurope.com/cgi-bin/kyb/kybdata.pl?next=catalogtop - look up maestro, everything technical you need to know is here.

As for auto levelling etc - things are much simpler is you just consider gas or oil shocks. Gas are superior because they have a layer of gas above the oil damping fluid, the performance of these does not degrade after lots of abuse round the bends as much as plain oil dampers.

[jonhamil]

Thanks Matt,

I am suitably educated! I was aware of the oil/gas situation, but I was not aware that one had a choice - I thought you had to fit whatever the manufacturer dictated. Also I have never heard of self - levelling??

The website link looks very interesting, but does not appear to contain maestro or Montego???

Cheers,

Jon

[Mat_C]

Just select austin - it lists all the different spring pan heights etc etc. I think self-levelling are for towing caravans etc, i don't know much about them myself.

You don't have to strict follow whats advised, as long as you don't mix and match pan heights on the same 'axle' etc it'll be fine.

[mgdavid]

Self-levelling shocks were an option on the rear of Monty estates and can be identified as they are about twice as fat as the standard shocks. I believe they are either difficult to source or b expensive or maybe both ! But they do work well, the extra weight and movement of a full load pumps up the shocks and stiffens them, although there is anecdotal evidence of a high incidence of warranty claims in service.

[matthewsemple]

I was aware of the oil/gas situation, but I was not aware that one had a choice - I thought you had to fit whatever the manufacturer dictated

Rover fitted gas shocks to some of the more expensive Montegos, I think the MG versions got them. When I had mine replaced in my MG Maestro Turbo I went for gas which it may have had from new as the Masetro Turbos did get uprated Montego spec on some items.

There is nothing to stop you putting the gas shocks on even if your car had oil from new.

[skipweasel]

There is nothing to stop you putting the gas shocks on even if your car had oil from new.
I fitted some to a Maestro a few years ago 'cos that was what I could get second hand at the time - they were far better than the originals but that was 'cos the originals had ceased damping some years earlier. Must admit I probably never drove it hard enough to appreciate the difference though.