Maestro Van tickover high

[maestro vans]

Hi all, An update for you on the brake situation. If you remember the brake pedal was sticking down and slow to rise up after application. The upshot of it is I replaced the servo and it all came good, ie so far so good.
A quick question should the rims feel fairly hot when driving around for a while. The brakes are definately not binding, I tested this by braking on a hill and releasing the brakes, the van rolls, so no binding. However I'am a little worried that the rims are getting so warm.
Second question, whilst fitting the servo I noticed the rubber tube had split on the little vacuum pipes that come from the intake manifold, one goes to the distributor and adjusts the advance/retard timing I think, this one was OK. the other one goes from a little T piece to the carb. Upon reconnecting this with a new rubber end the tickover has risen.
I cannot lower the tickover enough, Ive adjusted the idle screw to minimum and in the end tweaked the fuel/air mixture screw 1/2 a turn out.
In the end the car was very lumpy as to be expected. I have left the small vacuum pipe off at the moment just to lower the engine to tickover.
Do you think it could be that the timing needs adjusting?
Any help greatly appreciated.

[H48HPE]

normally if you reduced the engine vacuum by cutting a vacuum pipe the engine revs would fall cos the engine cant pull the fuel through from the carb cos the vacuum required to do this is escaping.

if the previous owner didnt know what they were doing and didnt realise there was a vac leak then maybe to stop the car stalling they re-adjusted the throttle cable by re-clamping it so it was holding the throttle open instead of using the adjusting screw.

Is there any free play in the cable at the carb?

is it a manual choke or one of the automatic versions

[H48HPE]

as for hot rims,

mine are always warm after a run around, disk brakes always get warm, if the van rolls on a slight downhill slope then I would say all is ok

Andy

[maestro vans]

Thanks for the replies guys. There is a little slack in the throttle cable. I have checked the carburettor lever shuts all the way.So it is not stuck on at all.
I wonder if its a timing issue?

[H48HPE]

it could be the timing I supose, you need to check it with a strobe lamp.

also have you checked that the choke is returning properly?

Andy

[Aussie Montego]

Check the vac advance on the dizzy to see if it is leaking, put a hose on the dizzy and give it a suck, you should be able to suck a little bit of air and then it should stop. If you can just keep sucking then you have a leak.

[E_T_V]

As I see from another thread it is a 1.3 van.

I think the problems are all related to the vacuum system (as is VERY common on this engine). The 1/2 turn you made to the mixture may well be not enough. The last 1.3 that had a vacuum leak needed a good 3 or 4 turns to get it back in tune after I'd fixed the vacuum leak.

Check all the vaccum pipes are sound and not split. Also check the vacuum diaphram (as suggested above)

Once all this is done then re-tune the engine.

Follow the instructions in the haynes manual. They aren't really hard to tune by ear.