Steering Rack Assembly

[John S]

I've just inspected the accident damage on Turbo 399 closely. It seems that the end of the steering arm is bent on the drivers side. A car has hit the front o/s wheel which was pointing outwards whilst waiting at a crossroad. Anyone out there have any experience of taking the steering apart that could give me any tips for removal? I am getting the bits off a diesel of the same age by the way.

John

[E_T_V]

The same thing happened to our A reg 1.3 The tie rod was shapped like a bannana and the wheels pointed in opposite directions. One new tiebar later and all was well. Better get it tracked up afterwards too to make sure it is all even.

[SimonR]

Well, I spent many happy hours last year taking a PAS rack out of an auto Maestro so I have a little experience in the matter and one bit of advice is to make sure you go with a ball joint splitter. First time I went I thought "how difficult can it be?" but it was a real bugger to get the track rod ends off.

The rest of the job is fairly straight forward although access to the rack mounting bolts can be fairly tough (don't know if the diesel rack is the same as petrol, btw) I found it best to jack the donor car right up, support it with tyres on the sills and then work from underneath. Obviously make sure it's stable before you venture underneath.

Getting the rack out of the car can also be fun, in the end I removed everything at the back of the engine and took it up there after moving it as far as it'd go towards the passenger side.

Good luck.

[MGTurbo]

If only *slightly* bent do not be concerned. I fitted a steering rack on mine off a accident damaged car which literally only had a tiny bend on the driver's side near the tie rod. It hasnt affected the way it's driven in 3 years. Maybe a picture would help?

Gareth

[John S]

Thanks for that. Will send a picture when I get some developed today, hope to get a digital camera sometime soon.....

John

[John S]

....and another question: What tool is best for removing the two ball-joints? Is it a specific ARG tool?

John

[MGTurbo]

....and another question: What tool is best for removing the two ball-joints? Is it a specific ARG tool?

John


Removing them from the hub is easy, i just use a forked type ball joint splitter.

Getting the balljoint out of the suspension arm is something else though, and involves alot of time and swearing.

Gareth

[John S]

I reckon the arm's a bit too bent too be straightened. Here it is:-

[Simon]

Christ!

:horror:

Here is a picture of a ball joint splitter:

[E_T_V]

If you have access to a gas torch then you could attempt to straighten it, it should be fairly straightforward. However you would be best replacing the rod if you can get the inner ball joints undone.

[Ovalracer]

This is what happened last time I got a 'slight' knock on my NSF wheel on my racecar. :(

[MGTurbo]

Simon, there isnt any room for that type of balljoint splitter on that part of the hub. If your lucky it will just lift off the bottom balljoint but you usually have to lever it or use the fork type which works everytime for me. The scissor type is ideal for the tie rod though.

No, that rack arm has had it. :giveup: :idea:

Gareth

[John S]

I just managed to remove the steering rack out of a Diesel non-PAS van :D . Will this system fit the MG :confused: ?

John

[MGTurbo]

I just managed to remove the steering rack out of a Diesel non-PAS van :D . Will this system fit the MG :confused: ?

John


Only if you change the rack column and the plate that bolts onto the floor as this is different. I would want to try and keep a turbo with PAS though.

Gareth

[John S]

Here's a picture of the section I've removed. If this will not fit the Turbo & PAS system, what will and from which car will it need to be from? If I need different parts I'll get them from M&M parts in Birmingham.

thanks for your patience,

John

[John S]

I've disconnected all the pipework on the current steering rack. It is loose, ready to come out but it seems like I can't lower it enough to clear the floorpan opening. Would it be expected to remove the exhaust front-pipe for better clearance? I tried removing one bolt but it broke off. This is a last resort question before I have the car towed away to the local mechanics.

John

[TurboMG]

You dont need to change the whole rack, just the arm, check the lower arm isnt bent as well.

[John S]

I appreciate that the arm can be replaced separately, it's just that I can't undo a lot without it being a pain in the :censored: as it's all old and seized. Furthermore, I can't get enough grip to remove the arm. The car has done 100,000 miles anyway so I reckon a brand new steering rack could be on the cards for a more positive/safe driving experience. I'll price check with MGR tomorrow.

John

[TurboMG]

Rovers price is about 350 pounds.

[John S]

That's as much as I paid for the car! :horror: Looks like I may be ordering from M&M parts, Birmingham then. I'll price check all the same, I was hoping more like £150. Oh well.........

[e692wtt]

In September 2002, I was quoted something like £105 + VAT exchange for a PAS rack for the VDP I was running into the ground at the time. This was from a local motor factor that RDGelder and myself use and find very helpful in north manchester.

If you need details, let me know. :)

[John S]

Yes please, do tell......... :D

[e692wtt]

Ok, I will try to get there today or tomorrow (am off work at the moment) as I need a few bits'n'bobs anyway. I think we'll get a price if I go in person, because they know me - whereas if you rang them you may not...

Will keep you informed. :)

[e692wtt]

Right, ready for this? There are 2 types of PAS Rack available, depending on whether the Rack in question has just 2 mountings (as per a 'normal' Steering Rack - what you would expect, basically) or a third mounting in the centre (for the gearshift mechanism, they think). Both PAS Racks are in stock at the suppliers...

The 2-mounting PAS Rack is approx £72 + VAT, the 3-mounting Rack is approx £86 + VAT. A non-assisted Rack for a 2.0 Montego is approx £28 + VAT, for info. They made no mention of it being an exchange rack, but you can ask this on the phone (sorry!).

If you ring and pay by credit or debit card, they are happy for the Rack to be picked up by anybody, if this is of interest to you?

Shop details:-

Alan Quine Ltd, (they'll answer the phone as 'Quines?')
253 Parr Lane, Whitefield, Bury, Lancs.

0161 796 5797

Hope this is of use to you. :)

[John S]

Great stuff! Even if the rack is reconditioned it'll be much better than the one I've got anyway. Thanks for your help.....
I've undone my current rack and it seems to have just the two mounts, held by two bolts each. Did they give you any part numbers?

John

[matthewsemple]

Thanks for that. Will send a picture when I get some developed today, hope to get a digital camera sometime soon.....

John

Slightly off topic - I can recommend the Polaroid 3.2 Mega Pixel camera that I have just bought for £79.99 from Argos. That is a real bargain and it has loads of featues including webcam, microphone, four different resolutions, video mode, 4x zoom, etc, etc. Comes with batteries, Software on CD rom, case, USB lead, 16MB.

For an extra £20 you can get a big leather case and a 64MB Smart Card.

If you do get a camera I'd love to see a picture of your Turbo and I'll feature it on my website.

[e692wtt]

Great stuff! Even if the rack is reconditioned it'll be much better than the one I've got anyway. Thanks for your help.....
I've undone my current rack and it seems to have just the two mounts, held by two bolts each. Did they give you any part numbers?

John

Part nos XLR024 and XLR032 - I think these refer to the 3-mount and 2-mount Racks respectively (but it could be the other way round...).

They're half expecting someone to ring for a new Maestro PAS Rack anyway and will go straight to it, don't worry!

If you want me to collect it and meet you somewhere let me know. If not, it's easy enough to find the shop. :)

[Simon]

"2 mounting" one for anything with a Honda gearbox and 1.6 automatics; "3 mounting" one for 1.6 manual cars with the VW gearbox.

[John S]

Ah, as guessed it has only two main mounts. Cheers for that Simon. I shall go there tomorrow. Also, thanks for offering to meet me Rich but I shall be going up to Uni beforehand so I can easily nip into Bury later in the afternoon.

John

[E_T_V]

Bugger. So this would mean that converting my 1,3 to a 2,0 will mean it needs a new steering rack too? Or can I leave one mounting spare?

[tony]

i bet they wont line up dan

[e692wtt]

"2 mounting" one for anything with a Honda gearbox and 1.6 automatics; "3 mounting" one for 1.6 manual cars with the VW gearbox.

Hmm, their parts book indicated that the Montego 2.0 Turbo could be either, but the 2.0SLX I've just dismantled only had a 2-mount PAS Rack...

I'd agree it should be a 2-mount rack, yes.


The 'third mounting' seems to refer to a support for the gearchange mechanism and not a Rack-to-bodywork mounting though? :confused: I'd say 'suck it and see' to see if the existing Rack will be ok, E_T_V.


Oh, and M170 RFA, ring before you go because they will need to get it ordered. Ring first thing and it will be in by dinner, I am sure. :)

[BIGLAD]

Bugger. So this would mean that converting my 1,3 to a 2,0 will mean it needs a new steering rack too? Or can I leave one mounting spare?

The mounting only serves as a pivot point for the gearchange linkage on the VW 'boxes (1300cc and early 1600cc).
If you are aiming to convert to 2.0 then it will be the Honda/PG1 type box that you will need to use. The gear change "linkage" on the Honda 'box (prob the same as your camper) comes in from the bottom/back.
You won't need the "extra" mount, but it may get in the way of a 2.0 'box. Its not very strong so you could probably remove it with a hacksaw if need be.

[Simon]

Yes, it's just a bracket for the gearchange relay assembly, that's all. The mounting points at either end of the rack will line up with the mounting holes on the bulkhead no problem.

Funnily enough, when I converted my Maestro 1.6 to PAS last year, I used a rack that I removed from a low mileage (25,000) C reg 1.6 Auto, but it did have the middle gear linkage bracket on it, albeit unused. Weird?

[hornmeister2000]

Mine's apparently got a gator missing and a "little bit" of play in the rack. Anyone able to interpret that and is it an urgent problem?

[E_T_V]

Yes get the gator fixed as it'll let dirt in causing more wear making more slack.

[hornmeister2000]

But is "a little bit of slack" a major problem? And is replacing the gator an easy DIY job?

[e692wtt]

Ok, as you look down the back of the engine, you see the steering rack against the bulkhead. The 'gators' (actually, 'gaiters', strictly speaking but we all seem to understand 'gator' ) are at either end of the main body (like a scaffold pole in size, mainly) of the steering rack. They are like 'rubber bellows' through which pass the metal arms that go (eventually) to the wheels - and their movement as you turn the steering wheel causes the car to be steered.

It's not difficult replacing these gaiters, just fiddly because you need to reset the 'tracking' on the front wheels afterwards (it might be worth asking if your motor parts supplier can provide a 'split gaiter' like those you can get for the driveshafts, though... this would make it a doddle!) but it's fairly easy to maintain the setting of the tracking from rust marks around the joint that you need to undo each side... I'd say get it reset professionally afterwards though.

If you can 'feel' less than 1/2" 'free play' at the steering wheel rim before any slack is taken up (or the front wheels begin to respond to the movement of the steering wheel) then the car will pass its MoT. Any 'slack' could be due to wear elsewhere in the steering system and not the steering rack though... I shouldn't worry about any movement less than this.


Apologies if this is patronising and condescending, but I thought it was more use than the answers above. If you know this, sorry... :)

[hornmeister2000]

That's really helpful, thanks!