Rear Wheel Bearing Noise

[Jack]

About 10,000 miles ago the rear off side wheel bearing on my Maestro Diesel started to rumble. Recently I thought I outght to take it apart and potentially re-grease it to see if that cured it. It didn't, even though the bearing surfaces and balls looked fine with no visible wear.

Anyway, I have duly purchased and fitted a new bearing and the rumble noise remains! I definately have the right wheel and have tried torqueing it up less than the required 50 ft/lbs. No luck. I have heard of people having problems by not changing both the inner and outer races together but I have changed it all. I can't understand it. It only makes the rumble noise on left hand bends.

Any ideas?:(

[E_T_V]

CV joint quite possibly.

Also you have to torque it up to the correct torque otherwise it'll have too much play in it when it goes round corners.

Also check that the drum/backplate interface isn't rubbing, you might have to remove some rust from both to get them to run smoothly.

[Jack]

Nope. None of the above. The noise is definately coming from the o/s/r corner (I've had people in the car in the back listening out and they have confirmed this). Also, the classic noise of it rumbling on left turns indicates a problem on the right (off side) side of the car. I really can't see anything wrong with it and am at a loss.

Has anybody heard of bearings being noisy brand new?

[Mat_C]

Whats the rest of the rear suspension like? It could be a vibration caused by a weird combination of factors (bushes shot etc).

[G Force]

Originally posted by Jack
Has anybody heard of bearings being noisy brand new?

Nope not really, but I have seen people damage the race when they have fitted the new bearings. I use your theory for diagnosing wheel bearing noises, but I have been caught out by the odd exception to the rule, I would not be suprised if this is not what is happening in your case. If you are convinced that the o/s/r is at fault swap the drum and hub assemblies over to see if the diagnosis is the same ie. does noise go to the n/s/r, if so, if the bearing you fit was a unipart bearing you should take the car to the rover dealer and they should change it under the unipart 12 months parts & labour warranty.

Cheers Gary :)

[E_T_V]

Have you checked that the exhaust isn't catching as this is one of the places that it sometimes does. Otherwise change the bearing it is a suprisingly easy job. When they fitted it they did remember to fit the split pin didn't they?

[Jack]

I sussed it!

When fitting the new bearing I noticed that the smaller outer one was in a plastic wrapper that was opened. I thought nothing of it at the time but I now suspect somebody had bought the bearing kit and then changed just the small bearing. They then put the old knackered one back in the wrapper very carfully to make it look unopened. They then took it back to the shop.

Anyway, I decided that this must be the case as I removed the "new" bearing to find that the small outer bearing in question was quite notchy. I've returned it to the shop and they've supplied a new kit which I am going to fit tonight. I'll let you know how I get on.

Maybe this should act as a warning - check inside the box to see if it looks opened previously before leaving the shop!:rage:

[MGTurbo]

Originally posted by Jack
I sussed it!

When fitting the new bearing I noticed that the smaller outer one was in a plastic wrapper that was opened. I thought nothing of it at the time but I now suspect somebody had bought the bearing kit and then changed just the small bearing. They then put the old knackered one back in the wrapper very carfully to make it look unopened. They then took it back to the shop.
:

Thats a bit unlucky... Saying that, i've done it myself with a nearly new thermostat.... the joys of being poor...

Gareth

[Jack]

Oh dear! I changed the bearing again last night to the brand new one which was not opened and it is still making the noise! I am now starting to think that Mavis Maestro has somehow been "throwing" the rumbling noise to the o/s/r corner when it is in fact coming from somewhere else. Hopefully it's the n/s/r in which case I'll put on the old o/s/r bearing to that side.

I assume that the front bearings are different to the rear and if it's the front I'll have to buy another kit (at least I'll have a spare rear bearing set!).

I have heard that Maestro front bearings are a bit of a pig to do? Is this true? What's involved. I've yet to look in the Haynes manual but no doubt it'll sound very easy - what's the truth?

:banghead:

[E_T_V]

In theory it is very easy to do. However the bearings can be a rather tight fit (to say the least). If you've got access to a hydraulic press to push the bearings out then it should be almost as easy as the rear ones, otherwise getting the bearings out of the hub can be quite fun! I'd still advice you to check the CV joints whilst you are there as from your description of it only happening whilst cornering it could well be one of those.

To check the bearing jack it up and push/pull on the top and bottom of the tyre to check for play. If there is play then the bearing will need replacing. If not then I have yet to come across a noisy front bearing that isn't dead. Also check the exhaust to make sure that it isn't swaying to one side under cornering and rubbing on the car underside.

[Jack]

Now I am confused! I went home on my lunch, jacked all four corners up and can detect no play whatsoever in any wheel.

Is there any way I can check the CV joints (without taking them off) to confirm whether or not it's one of them?

I thought CV joints made horrible clunking noises on full lock when they are kaputt. This is a definate low rumbling noise.

[G Force]

Originally posted by E_T_V
If there is play then the bearing will need replacing. If not then I have yet to come across a noisy front bearing that isn't dead.

The bearing does'nt neccessarily have to have play in it to be noisy. The slightest pitting in a ball bearing or roller can cause the bearing to be noisy whilst showing no evidence of play. Very small ammounts of play are tolerable and of no detrement to the operation of the bearing, but as you say if there is excess play the bearing should be changed. :)

Cheers Gary ;) :)

[G Force]

Hi there Jack. You can often hear the rear bearings if they are noisy if you jack up the rear end and spin the wheel by hand and listen carefully both next to the wheel and inside the car. if not try putting a long screw driver on the rear of the axle stub and your ear to the screwdriver handle this amplifies the sound.

The fronts you can jack up in turn and spin up with the engine (not too fast though) you may notice a noise change as you turn the steering also.

As for cv joints you are correct when you describe a clunking noise on full lock. This is usually when they are well shot. Before they get to that stage they can present with a knocking rummble, this can usually be reproduced at quite low speeds though.

Hth Cheers Gary:)

[Jack]

Right, I've been out and had a good listen. Whilst I am still unable to be certain which corner the noise is coming from I can state the following with confidence:

The low rumble occurs very slightly when going straight ahead. Any slight turn to the right and is disappears. Any slight turn left and it gets worse. Fast curves to the left make it sound the loudest. The same curve but to the right gives no noise.

The noise gets steadily louder as the vehicle speed increases and vice versa. Coasting along in neutral the noise is the same.

Full lock in either direction on slow turns does not affect the noise and there is no clunking at all.

I always thought that bearing noise on left turns = right side bearing and vice versa. I thought the noise was coming from the rear and hence changed the o/s/r bearing. Is is possible that the noise could occur in the n/s bearing on left turns?

Thanks for all your help - I will be doing the stethoscope thing tonight and give you my diagnosis tomorrow!

[G Force]

Originally posted by Jack
Is is possible that the noise could occur in the n/s bearing on left turns?

Hello again Jack. Yes it is mate, Like I was saying before your diagnosis technique in most cases works very well, but on the odd occasion it sometimes gives the wrong result. Its a little hard to get your head round, but if you imagine in the case of a rear wheel bearing the ball bearings and outer races rotate around the clamped inner races, so the thrust on the inner races is greater around there lower portions. If the inner race has damage on its upper portion, as the load comes off the wheel (as in cornering) more load is applied to the non thrust faces of the inner races due to bearing pre-load & weight of wheel etc. resulting in noise.

If its any conselation Ive been caught out now and again, but Im willing to bet you will cure the problem with a new wheel bearing, whichever one it turns out to be.;)

Regards Gary :)

[Jack]

Woo hoooooooo!!!!! Finally sorted it. Never again will I assume I know where the noise is coming from – always do the stethoscope thing.

It was the n/s/r, NOT the o/s/r! When I removed it the outer bearing’s race was pitted, not badly, but enough to cause the noise. I then fitted the bearing which I had removed from the o/s/r as it was okay. All now quiet.

Just got to sort my windscreen water leaks and the speed wobble at 80mph and I’m sorted.

Thanks for everybody’s advice – I wouldn’t have done it without you (or at least not as quickly).

At least there is one benefit – having removed and replaced rear wheel bearings a total of seven times, I am now an expert at it (and at forming split pins out of pieces of wire).
:) :) :) :) :) :) :)