VP T16 turbo [Archive] - Maestro & Montego Owners Club

countrydude

1st March 2009, 22:37

I have sourced parts for my project which is going to be my personal drive. Leaving the Countryman for business. It started with the purchase of a T16 engine. I have been hankering after a good petrol turbo project, after a bit of research I soon realised this was going to be the power plant.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=230324987021

I bid on the VP Maestro
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330309734311

I know these conversion projects are not popular on here but I am going to be sympathetic to the original. The only mods to the outside being considered are a front splitter, rear spats ref: the efi models. But I may well leave it as a complete sleeper.

I have a coilover kit, big brake kit, fresh cross spokes (white) I have every intention of making this a great looking car.

The only definate mod is currently the cross spokes for firstly practical reasons, 200bhp will not transfer through 155 of high profile tyre without tearing! Also the white wheels against the read and grey, should be a good look I think!

Combine the fact that I have (hopefully a good condition!) 200bhp engine at 60k being fitted to a 37k VP maestro, I hope you all agree a worthy project for such a treasured machine! Believe me it will be treasured!
I will update thread with pics as my many pieces of the puzzle arrive!

My intention is to give new life to an already classic car. I hope it is not viewed as a B4stardisation of a classic. Lets see how I do!

Captain Slow

2nd March 2009, 09:21

countrydude

2nd March 2009, 10:15

I have two comments upon this project;

1: If you're doing the MG rear spoilers and front splitter, the MG Maestro/Monty GSi wheels would set them off a treat and still look in keeping with it's VP-ness (Esp. if you find VP centre caps) - I don't really think white cross-spokes would look as good; you'd just be making it look like an MG.

2: I'm here if you ever want to sell it.

I do take your point but arn't the VP/GSi alloys 14"? I have been advised 15" is the minimum for such a powerful engine.

I think the white against the red and grey will be a good look but I will keep an open mind!!

MGTurbo#261

2nd March 2009, 11:24

Sounds like a great project, keep us updated with some pictures :)
Not sure on the white wheels but I it could work with the grey lower half, will be interesting to see how it looks :cool:

E_T_V

2nd March 2009, 11:51

There is already a T16 VP around I believe.

Should make a good project, just dont' be too disappointed if you don't hit 200bhp. Most T16's don't hit anywhere near their posted figures as standard.

Jumturbo

2nd March 2009, 16:00

I think you will need at least 15" wheels if you have a big brake kit to clear the calipers.

Andy

2nd March 2009, 18:39

Do love conversion stories like this, wolf in sheep's clothing. Don't like the sound of the white wheels mind. I always though 16" BRM alloys suited the maestro better than any, give it a more modern touch and would improve handling. Do you have prof the TI had only covered 60k before the engine was removed seemed to have had an easy life if correct.

countrydude

2nd March 2009, 20:34

I have the engine strapped down in the back of my estate. I will get some pics up tomorrow when I have the car too! I have no way of knowing if the engine is truely at 60k, only that the guy seemed genuine to me. He has been playing with engines for years and had a few 600ti's and thought highly of them.

I will have a look at the colours and try and sort out styling too as I could go all out turbo kit but would seem a shame in a way. I just want to suggest that it is a turbo in some way? A VP I think could be seen as an OAP's car if I keep it too original!!

Give forward your views! I will post up pics tomorrow to aid your opinions!

Captain Slow

2nd March 2009, 21:05

My apologies for the photoshop work; it's not up to my usual calibre, but it was a very quick colour change job from what I was trying to talk Oli into doing to his Mayfair (Instead of making another MG rep...)

This, Countrydude, is pretty much what I was suggesting in my post. Menacing yet classy all at once.

Andy

2nd March 2009, 21:25

countrydude

2nd March 2009, 22:12

I think if you have gone for a vp you might as well keep it vp for the effect or you will end up with a mish-mash of everything. If you wanted to suggest it was a turbo a efi would be better as it would suit a turbo kit. Still say BRM's for wheels although the above looks good. There's a picture somewhere of a blue race maestro with highly polished 14" Alloys and it looks spot on.

i'm not sure what BRM's are?

Captain Slow - Thanks for mocking up that pic, I am not sure but on 14" wheels the profile would have to be so low as to not damage the walls of the tyres. Maybe on 14" the speedo would be out? Also what width are they? I think 6j is the thinnest I could go for with the T16.

Also on a more practical basis they are very rare wheels and I would be hard pushed to find a set?

Ricky

2nd March 2009, 22:16

If you like the look of those wheels, but can't find a set, create the look the easy way - get a set of steel wheels and apply hubcaps!:D

countrydude

2nd March 2009, 22:43

I think they are currently on the car!

Captain Slow

3rd March 2009, 14:06

i'm not sure what BRM's are?

Captain Slow - Thanks for mocking up that pic, I am not sure but on 14" wheels the profile would have to be so low as to not damage the walls of the tyres. Maybe on 14" the speedo would be out? Also what width are they? I think 6j is the thinnest I could go for with the T16.

Also on a more practical basis they are very rare wheels and I would be hard pushed to find a set?

5.5"J. Same as all X-spokes save Monties and Maestro Turbos IIRC.

MaestroTurbo

3rd March 2009, 15:44

Maestro Turbos had 5.5j, they look odd with 6J's on them. 280mm big brakes will need 15's. 16 inch BRM style dont do it for me, they are also 7J and tramline bad, dont do the handling much either.

countrydude

3rd March 2009, 15:52

I think I will stick to my original choice then. I just need to get a couple sprayed up and I have a spanking set of cross spokes. It may look like an MG in the wheel dept but it will keep the vp standard in most other things.

I will get some pics up when I find my battery charger??

Ricky

3rd March 2009, 16:09

Just another idea - it might be a stupid one, but it's an idea nonetheless - could you not spray the x spokes a different colour? I've got one I did a couple of years ago in Charcoal, it looks quite good in that colour, but the more I look at it the more I think it should be a darker red colour... For your car though, the Charcoal would go nicely with the grey lower half, or at least I think it would.....!

Andy

3rd March 2009, 16:12

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/1170/39a21jj0.jpg

http://www.aronline.co.uk/images/blogsbrm_01.jpg

There's the BRM Alloys there's quite a few pictures on the net of these fitted to maestros ail have a look later.

Jumturbo

3rd March 2009, 16:19

Rover 200s have a different pcd. 4x100, so will not fit. I think you mean the similar looking MGF 16" alloys. Now they do look good! But the car will not look like a VP, if that is what you want. I think the wider 6j cross-spokes off the monty look better than the 5.5js of the Maestro, slightly deeper rim.

MaestroTurbo

3rd March 2009, 16:22

I didnt say the 6J's affected handling i said the 16 inch BRM minilite style did, the sidewalls dont flex as much and just doesnt really suit it, but thats my opinion and have always stuck with 15's for the way it handles.

Jumturbo

3rd March 2009, 16:28

Sorry, but I must have deleted that bit just as you were posting yours! Yes bigger wheels and lower tyres will worsen everyday handling on everyday roads. But depends on how often you will use the car and how you intend to drive I suppose. The wheels you see on Maestros are not the Rover 200 BRMs though, they are 16" MGFs, which look very similar and very nice!

Andy

3rd March 2009, 16:28

I it will be the mgf wheels that I am on about but each to there own. I didn't realise different wheels could affect handing so much, plenty seem to wear them.

MaestroTurbo

3rd March 2009, 16:35

Yes and plenty of people fit massive wheels on certain cars for looks not handling. The width of the tyre, the profile and the brand have more to do with the handling than the diameter, the lower the profile, the harder the sidewall and the less feel you get.

Jumturbo

3rd March 2009, 16:42

They don't affect handling in a bad way. You will actually get more feel. But not always a good thing! It's just todays road conditions don't really suit very low profile tyres. Handling with ultra low profile tyres, combined with uprated suspension and bushes will be vastly improved over standard. No-one can deny that. ie. on a race circuit, the car with the bigger wheels and lower profile tyres will handle better. I ran 17s on my Montego and it handled fantastic. Pot holes and grooves in the road had to be avoided though. I also thought it looked fantastic too! But not everyone will agree and of course beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I have a lot of experience running cars with mega low profile tyres and would highly recommend to others. So what ever look you want, go for it!

Andy

3rd March 2009, 16:52

Ive got 235/35/zr19's on me Jag with bilstein suspension, this setup was on when I bought it and I definitely would not buy a car like it with the same set up again. Ride is very harsh and on bumpy roads the wheel is almost dragged from your hands however on good roads the handling is perfect. Mind I have just replaced one on the Continentals on the front at £280.10 fitted, ouch. Though I have fun 16" wheels on a rover 25 which I think had a 45 profile with no problems.

Jumturbo

3rd March 2009, 16:59

I have the same size on my ZTT and am very happy with the handling, but you have to be vigilant about the road surface. I don't do a lot of mileage, it is mainly for pleasure. But you hit the nail on the head Andy. On a nice smooth winding road the set up is excellent! I can see from the avatar it looks excellent too. ;)

MaestroTurbo

3rd March 2009, 17:51

Bear in mind the Maestro originally had 13 inch, 4.5J wheels, the biggest was 14 inch, so was never designed or set up for massive wheels, more modern cars were hence why they handle so well with bigger wheels/tyres etc.

Jumturbo

3rd March 2009, 18:43

I don't think they were specifically designed for 13" or 14" wheels, but that was pretty much the norm and what was available at the time. As we know, the sizes slowly crept up to 15", and would have got bigger had they been available. Design wise it is hardly an ancient design! The ZRs and ZSs are pretty similar underneath and ran 17s. I can only speak from experience and I can honestly say that my SLX conversion handled superb. But the whole suspension set up was uprated, with poly bushes, uprated springs and shocks etc. In my view it also made it look good too, but that is a personal thing I know, and suspect probably not wholey welcome amongst this forum. :( But I am not going to oppologise for that!:D

MaestroTurbo

3rd March 2009, 19:22

The Maestro was designed in the late 70's and virtually nicked the Mk1 Golf set up, itself an early 70's set -up, i make that well over 30 years old, compared to a 'modern' car i.e something within the past 5 years, its significantly more basic in set up and geometry. ZS are in no way similar, ZR's closer due to the rear beam which was a modified Maestro one but many things were changed and they are not interchangeable for example, both ZS and ZR use a similar set up front to the 1989-on R200.

Simple fact is, fit massive wheels to a Maestro with no other mods and you'll end up with a crap ride, tramlining and if the wrong tyres are fitted, a speedo thats likely to read incorrect. Grip levels will be potentially high, but lack of progression means it could also bite at the limit compared to a car with smaller wheels but bigger profile tyres. They handle far sweeter and predictable on 15's with GY Eagle F1's, a nice modern soft grippy tyre. This is what you need in a light, near 200bhp FWD car, not something that feels skittish on the limit.

countrydude

3rd March 2009, 20:01

The Car:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0270.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0271.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0272.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0273.jpg
I am irritated about the rear arch, described as a scrape, it needs cutting out and replacing!
There is a crack in the front bumper too!

Engine and parts:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0276.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0277.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0278.jpg
I am going to start stripping the engine to check everything out - there is a fair amount of oil as the pics show. Compression seems good and the engine moves freely. I have a feeling it has done more than 60k!! But I will check the bores first.

Captain Slow

3rd March 2009, 20:40

Now there's a pic of your car here's a better attempt at my shop. Give me some time, I'll mock it up on white X spokes too.

Jumturbo

3rd March 2009, 20:56

Hey how did you do that! Now try it with 17" rims! but make sure you change the bushes and suspension too!;)

countrydude

3rd March 2009, 21:04

Nicely photoshopped there! I think I do need a splitter from that photo is isn't too over the top.

Captain Slow

3rd March 2009, 21:30

That's the one straight off an EFi, as is the rear spoiler.

Stephen G

3rd March 2009, 21:45

heres a pic of my old countryman with BRM Style alloys
http://i42.tinypic.com/jqqecl.jpg

E_T_V

3rd March 2009, 22:14

For wheel size you might want to have a read at what I've written here:

http://www.roverdiesel.co.uk/menuwheels/79-wheels-and-tyres.html

Bigger is not always better. People often confuse responsiveness and sharpness of turn in as handling well. It isn't all about that.

As for wheel choice then a nice set of advantage cream cross spokes doesn't look bad on a VP.

http://www.maestro.org.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=3704&highlight=advantage

Simon has silver 6J cross spokes on his VP with VP logos on the centre caps. I'm sure there will be photos of it somewhere on here

Jumturbo

4th March 2009, 08:51

I can only speak from experience again, but the 17" wheels/tyres I had on my montys felt lighter than the original cross-spokes for sure - less alloy. But not necessarally a good think as they can buckle! I rode the 17s for many years on both my montys and have no complaints about the handling or comfort. We went to Cornwall every year in it for about 10 years and no-one was complaining about discomfort! Undoubtedly, the 15s would have been more comfortable though, I'm not disputing that! At the end of the day, like I said, it is all to do with personal choice - each to their own. If comfort was the main criteria on everyones agenda, then Porsche and BMW etc would be fitting higher profile tyres on their 911s and M3s combined with softer suspension! But yes, looks play a big part!

SimonR

6th March 2009, 21:52

Nice idea for a project, Country Dude do let us know how it all goes.

As far as wheels go, if you're after a set of MGF-Style alloys then I've got a set of these which I'm trying to shift:

http://i5.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/36/8d/eed9_12.JPG

You'll probably need a spacer to stop them fouling your calipers.

However I think that Hurricane Grey x-spokes would also look the bee's nuts.

Here's a picture of a Maestro Vanden Plas with 6J X-Xpokes and custom-made VP decals on the centre caps:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y291/Wonkey_Donkey/JOE/JOE1.jpg

I think it looks rather good - but then I would say that, wouldn't I?!

Oh - here's a close-up of the 6J wheel and decal:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y291/Wonkey_Donkey/JOE/IMG_2459.jpg

SimonR

6th March 2009, 22:29

Forgot to add (as Cat has just pointed out!) that this is almost the same as I was doing about this time last year - getting a 1.6 Maestro VP auto and converting it to a slightly faster ride.

There are a few things that you'd probably need to get for this project such as:

bigger exhaust
head shielding underneath (two parts)
pedal box
different loom in parts....

Give me a shout if you need any help with the conversion - I've moved to Fulbourn so am even closer these days ;-)

countrydude

6th March 2009, 22:33

Thanks for that simon, is that your car? Looks good, where did you get those decals from?

Oli

28th September 2009, 23:19

Whats the latest on this mate?:)

countrydude

29th September 2009, 08:30

Whats the latest on this mate?:)

Aha, yes there has been some progress:

Ages ago the head was removed and on closer inspection the oil seals were literally burnt away on the valve guides so a full head set was ordered, head refaced and a rebuild:
Head is back, all shiny and ready to fit. Got head bolts and new shells too. Even though the head was in fairly good (although dirty) it was far from flat so it was skimmed.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0341.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0342.jpg

Then After much deliberation I decided to go for new pistons as the bores were showing slight wear. After much waiting Vic sold me his old forgies from Mental for a good price so a rebore and bottom end rebuild has taken place there too!

I have a stainless exhaust from Evo Al who did me a good price, so I am well on the way. Engine bay is empty so I can press on when work allows.
Stripped down and a lick of paint
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0350.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0351.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0352.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0353.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0354.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0355-1.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0356-1.jpg

So I have the block at a friends lockup under a sheet waiting for the right time, as you can see the oil pump was stripped down and rebuilt, rebored out to 86 mm for vic's old pistons with their old war wounds! looking good! I will have to sort this out soon now as I don't have a car at the weekends now as I have people selling for me now! Deffo need a second car.

I am going to use the old clutch, as there is a few miles left on it, so apart from some Mgf wheels as I have decided the Countryman deserves the Cross spoke wheels. I think I am ready!

Oli

29th September 2009, 08:59

Great stuff mate, really good read keep it up! I think it looks ace with the MG front splitter on it by the way. :)

threelitre

29th September 2009, 14:14

If you need inspiration about fitting spoilers - have a look at my Maestro here: http://www.aronline.co.uk/memberboucke3f.htm - it's only a measly 1.3, but I think using the spoilers colour coded is not too much over the top.

http://www.aronline.co.uk/images/ownerboucke_22.jpg

Regards,

Alexander

countrydude

12th October 2009, 23:02

I like the look of that on your car Alexander, I will go with the same but with side skirts to keep the dropped line down the side.

Hopefully this will allow the sleeper approach to still rule and not become an obvious fast car!

I also like the cheese graters on a meastro, but with the T16 they are not good enough, there just won't be enough rubber to keep grip.

I am looking for MGF alloys for this project.

threelitre

13th October 2009, 10:04

If you want a more decent looking rear, you can try to source a pair of HLE rear strakes - it'll look nearly like the MG from the side, including the improved aerodynamics, but less obvious from the rear (and less 1980). I found that the straight line stability of Maestros and Montegos suffers with wider tyres than 185/60, the car will tend to follow irregularities more than with more narrow tyres. That's why I choose to stick with the original MG Maestro size (175/65) after trying Montego TD wheels and (on a Monty) MG Montego 15" wheels. But getting T16 power down is another matter :) Wouldn't a Torsen-diff from a late 800 or 600 help?

Regards,

Alexander

countrydude

13th October 2009, 13:45

yes, I have a torsen box from the ti rover so that side is sorted. I really need to be looking at 6j minimum for the t16 otherwise the wheelspin will be embarrassing! Also higher than 50 profile then the car will handle like a boat!

Captain Slow

13th October 2009, 17:48

Try cross-spokes from an MG Montego Turbo. They're much less overt than MGF wheels - most would think they were standard fit.

countrydude

13th October 2009, 18:01

I have a set of white ones I had in mind for this project, but I have them on the countryman now! It seems to like them. My old silver set are tatty and have 60 profile tyres on so they wallow in the corners which on an estate is a bit hairy!
I may switch back to the silver set on the countryman and start the maestro on the cross spokes and look for the right wheels.

Problem is the big brake kit might not fit under them!

E_T_V

13th October 2009, 18:45

If it is the PAW kit then it'll fit (I'm using 5.5J's on the van with the PAW kit).

countrydude

13th October 2009, 19:53

Ok, so that is the way forward then, i'll put the wheel search on hold for a while.

countrydude

6th January 2010, 23:51

Ok so after a few hiccups, countless hold ups and many hours work the long awaited VDPT16 is nearly?? there!

All is done bar actually firing it up! So that is a bit gutting! The weather was against me as I had to get back for this week's pesto and pasta making! All being well the car will be fired up and taken for a MOT, leaving me to pick it up early next week.

Here are a few pics I took today of the car and mainly the engine as the final touches were being made.

I like the abstract nature of this pic:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0390.jpg

The underbelly:
New 1" lowering springs, dampers and fuel pump. The tank was swapped for a turbo one too.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0386.jpg

The only non sleeper element:
Not quite the peashooter exhaust! I may well paint black to detract attention as it is 70mm so quite large and a bit of a giveaway!
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0385.jpg

My favorite I think, a real reportage type photo:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0395.jpg

Trying to show the beefed up engine mount, a world apart from just using the o series mount!!
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0394.jpg

I think in some ways this shows it better though:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0391.jpg

The bay:
A few missing pieces battery and pas reservoir which are now in place.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0393.jpg
Many thanks to Jez (Triple M member) for his help and expertise in putting all this together. From doing the most impossible removing the automatic pedal box (it was supposed to be my job but it defeated me!) to making me the overlord of engine mounts. And doing a great job, managing to read wiring diagrams and create a working system of relays from scratch! Something I will get photos of at some point is the custom made cross member which has uprated the front end and allowing the depth necessary to fit the ti rad and i/c. Until then I sleep now...goodnight!

henocsr

7th January 2010, 09:04

well done i love projects like this. i often find myself thinking, i wondor what so and so would be like with that engine...........only funds stop me:(

countrydude

7th January 2010, 14:19

It is as cheap or expensive as you make it. I did as much as I could and helped out whenever I could. The parts were collected together over a long period of time when I found products within spec and the right price.

For someone who wanted one and wanted it tomorrow it would be v expensive.

matthewsemple

7th January 2010, 21:58

I am pretty sure that this Maestro Mayfair has a T16 engine and the same wheels:

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgm/shows/mgsd08/maestros/MGSD08_D471RWL.JPG

I don't know who owns it but it was at MG Saloon Day 2008 and the phrase 'street sleeper' was mentioned a few times!

countrydude

7th January 2010, 22:02

Good one! I think that is Ian Drews a Triple M member. He is fairly local to me so we are going to meet up! A mayfair and VP T16's!! Quite a sleepy pair ;)

countrydude

20th January 2010, 20:06

Ok, for the record the engine has been running, proving the wiring, flywheel and everything is working fine. There are a few issues remaining. These include the fusebox (needs a lot of fresh solder!), a throttle cable, and the butterfly valve is sticking. I have a spare so no problems there!

I finally have the V5c through so I just need to sort out the insurance, tax and then away we go!

89MGI

21st January 2010, 09:11

countrydude

21st January 2010, 11:36

Excellent! Very very impressive :)

I'd adore a "sleeper" but would not know where to begin! I hardly know how to change a wheel :D
Always fancied buying something like that someone has built, but with a limited knowledge I also find that scary as I wouldnt know what I was buying... :rolleyes:

I know its a completely different thing, and probably swearing on here but.... I've always fancied a Ford Fiesta with a Cosworth lump fitted, of course badged as a 1.1 "pop" :D

A few years ago I was the same! When I first started driving I was much the same. Still rebelling against my Father at a guess, as he is v good at mechanics/engineering. Now after much trial and error and a lot of reading and speaking to people, also these forums do help as the information is right on hand and several v helpful people to answer questions when you really need it!

Aparently on some XR2's there is just enough room to fit the Rover V8!! Pretty heavy, but fun!

Jumturbo

21st January 2010, 21:57

The Rover V8 is actually very light ( aluminium block and head). My TR7 had a V8 conversion and the engine is only slightly heavier than the original 2.0 litre unit. Would be a major job fitting one to an XR2 though, due to it being a front wheel drive car etc. Certainly people have fitted them to Capris and Sierras, but never seen one in an XR2, but don't doubt it has been done!:eek:

countrydude

21st January 2010, 22:07

Yes, it is a tight fit so I was told but it will go!

Once the maestro is up and running I may have a break from major projects and try to enjoy driving them! Only other future project is a vvc metro. We used to have one years ago, when I was young, it was an E reg. But that is for another thread. I will then have the triple of M's!

89MGI

22nd January 2010, 11:26

V8 XR2!!!! LOL!!!!! A mate used to have one with a MK3 Fiesta rs turbo engine and that was mad enough! Very funny too, we were once up the ass of a Scooby going down the slip road to the M65 in it and he was doing everything to shake us but couldnt :D :D :D

Thats the best bit about conversions - seeing the panic, amazement, disbelief on the other drivers face when they cant shake you. Its almost like they dont think their motor is working right ha ha! :confused:

Another good one is a lad I know has a series 1 Land-Rover with a very tuned 3.9I V8 fitted, race box etc (pretty much a comp-safari racer on the road, but looks almost standard)
I cant believe how fast it picks up IN ANY GEAR! Bloody scary and one very very angry motor car :evil:

89MGI

22nd January 2010, 11:34

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrLq5dArxDg

This is where its engine came from... OOOOOOOOOHHH makes me mess my pants!!! :evil: :rage: :evil:

countrydude

2nd February 2010, 21:46

Sorted out most issues today, it will now start up off the key, has all engine mounts, and I think all leaks have been stopped apart from a small power steering fluid leak.

Didn't make it to the MOT station but did make it out for maiden drive which was, err, spirited! obviously not giving it all as new bearings all around and fresh bores etc.

Didn't get any new pics, I think I will just post up in the gallery of the final MOT'd product as this T16 gamble is now over, wether it paid off or not I don't really know! All I know is that it was a cheap starting block, as I had everything rebuilt apart from the water, power steering, alternator and turbo I don't really know if I have left much of it to gamble with!

Oh and the exhaust is stupidly loud! Seems fine when accelerating but on tickover and esp. when you come off the revs the base tone is deafening! Not something I can live with, I think a middle box of some description is needed. Anyone have any ideas what would be effective?

There are a couple of electrical issues too, strange goings on with the stepper motor and something about the headlights and the windscreen wipers??

That being said, sorting out these last few niggles and it is an awesome car! We currently suspect the turbo is a t28 as it is quite a bit later than you would expect a t25 to come in at. The engine really wants to go!

89MGI

3rd February 2010, 15:55

We need to see this car on video :D
Nice one, I can see it being a belter finished :)

countrydude

3rd February 2010, 19:57

I will get some pics up and try a vid next week.

For now just try saying BOOOAAAARRRRR! as low and elongate it for as long as you can. That is what it sounds like on tickover ;). It is too much! I'm looking at possible repacking the silencer and trying a decibel insert to see if it quietens down at all.

countrydude

4th February 2010, 18:08

I got insurance for this today, with a lot of other quotes and wondering if I should put both cars on one policy. I decided in the end to put the maestro on a separate policy so one car for business and one for pleasure.

The premium is quite a lot but I have no NCB as I have only had one car up till now. I decided to go with a Modified insurance that you declare all parts and they are valued on a part for part basis. I know this might not be as good as an agreed evaluation but at least if the worst happens I will have everything replaced like for like.

So unlimited mileage, comprehensive cover, 3rd party cover on any vehicle, all mods declared £380 per year

Not bad when you consider no NCB and a healthy collection of points on my lisence! 3 of which thankfully come off this march. The policy is with Adrian Flux as my points come off and I earn NCB on this policy too I look forward to cheap insurance!

matthewsemple

4th February 2010, 20:07

countrydude

4th February 2010, 20:17

Adrian Flux seem to be the masters of the modified policy. Many other classic car policies won't cover a car that is even lightly modified.

I must say though that it is a brave man who with 9 points on his licence, takes a car that weighs under a tonne and shoehorns a 200PS turbocharged 2.0 litre twin-cam 16v engine under the bonnet ;)

LOL, 3 are coming off v soon! But yes it does read like a crazy story doesn't it! My license is key to my living so I will not be doing anything stupid! It was mainly me being careless through average speed cameras that got me where I am though. There are quite a few through everywhere now.

henocsr

5th February 2010, 06:49

LOL, 3 are coming off v soon! But yes it does read like a crazy story doesn't it! My license is key to my living so I will not be doing anything stupid! It was mainly me being careless through average speed cameras that got me where I am though. There are quite a few through everywhere now.

Thats were cruise control comes in;) Maybe you could fit the system as fitted to rover 800 and 400 t series

countrydude

5th February 2010, 12:27

No, one bitten and all that, it is the only points I have ever had in 11 years of driving, they all come at once!

countrydude

9th February 2010, 23:28

Mot'd today, hopefully taxed tomorrow, more pics to come soon

countrydude

12th February 2010, 18:33

New stance! I think the springs were 2" lowered as this is seriously dropped!

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0399.jpg

Interior:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0406.jpg

Car is now Mot'd Taxed and on the road! I will have it back at home in 2 weeks as a rear wheel bearing is knocking quite badly and a new steering rack was advised, I have a new one so they will be sorted early next week.
Last week we were driving around briefly on trade plates to test out. I can confirm the turbo is highly likely to be a T28 as it spools quite late, around 3.5 - 4k and boosts hard! It is a bit of a nutter car! I will get the numbers off the exhaust housing soon to find out for sure. The middle box for the exhaust still hasn't arrived so it sounds seriously loud too! I don't expect much difference with the middle box but as long as it lessens the deacceleration boom I will be happy!

countrydude

16th April 2010, 09:04

A few upgrades and general tidying.

I have been fitting a saab dual pass intercooler, new rad as the old one was beyond repair, pas pipework re routed as the pipe was beginning to collapse. Oh, and still waiting to fit is Victors old Montego turbo gearbox with the steel caged bearings 8)

I gave it a little clean and painted it!
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0466.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0467.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0473.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0474.jpg
Using the old rad as fitment to show how it will all sit together.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0478.jpg
Mainly the idea was to fit the larger intercooler to cool the t25 down a bit as it runs hot and it is coming up to summer. Hopefully by mid summer I will have a bigger turbo to fit.

The modified crossmember you see was mainly so I could use the ti rad and intercooler, which has now backfired tbh as the rad was buggered and was MUCH more expensive to replace!! Oh well...

Shame I didn't think to do a before pic, this is the closest I can find
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0395.jpg
You can see the intercooler and rad fit right along the front. Now the air filter has a much better cold air feed and better intercooler, hopefully this will keep things better cooled.

countrydude

20th April 2010, 22:27

let the pictures speak for themselves:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0481.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0484.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0486.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0490-1.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0487.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0489.jpg

Oh and thanks to Ben (triple M member) I now have a set of M carriers on the way, so the M series look is fully sourced! Next update to be under the bonnet!

countrydude

20th April 2010, 22:28

Why are my pics being squashed? the proportions are wrong, they look rubbish.:mad:

G51 NAV

20th April 2010, 22:52

Looking ok here once you click on them and open them up.
That looks excellent. The lowered stance and wide, v-tread tyres hint to the casual observer that this Austin means business.
I bet it goes well.
You've done a fantastic job there, it really looks the business and I bet it handles well too.
I think you should send that in to one of the classics mags.

countrydude

20th April 2010, 23:03

I may well do that, I am going to sort out the engine with the M series parts, do a major tidy of the engine bay and wiring and then have a look at a possible feature.

Thanks for your comments, I'm glad you like the car

ChrisM

21st April 2010, 07:49

Awesome :cool:

D87 SMW

21st April 2010, 09:14

Looks lovely, well done. Oporto Red over Grey is quite a rare combination to see, it works very well - the cross spokes stand out from the grey and compliment the chrome very well.

E_T_V

21st April 2010, 12:08

Looking good.

Fix the numberplate though! :)

The M carriers aren't a straight swap I believe, but I may be wrong on that. Worth checking out before going to fit them though! :)

countrydude

21st April 2010, 13:01

yes, I have ordered a new plate, I like the dealer name being on them as it is all part of the sleeper look, I contacted the guy ages ago and still haven't got any payment details from him. He has proofed it up and everything! Still best not to rush these things, it has only been around 3-4 weeks ;)

Yes, I have heard the M carriers need a few bolt holes elongating to fit, I have a die grinder so this should be easy. A good job too as I believe the carriers are leaking on the head atm so it will be good to cure this.

countrydude

22nd April 2010, 21:29

Impressed with the new fmic, easier to tell the difference as I have metal pipes in both passes, the inlet was so much colder than the turbo to intercooler! Also similarly to the radiator the stnadard ti intercooler was on it's last legs, I just touched the fins and they collapsed!

E_T_V

22nd April 2010, 21:31

Is the intercooler the saab jobbie?

I'm wondering if I'll blow the ends off on my van!

Only one way to find out though!

Russ

22nd April 2010, 22:05

Looking excellent, well done

countrydude

23rd April 2010, 07:52

Is the intercooler the saab jobbie?

I'm wondering if I'll blow the ends off on my van!

Only one way to find out though!
It is yes, I'm thinking a possible max of around 15 psi so not too worried about blowing it out!

E_T_V

23rd April 2010, 19:14

15psi!

With a bigger turbo and new pistons I hope! Otherwise it isn't likely to last long.

countrydude

23rd April 2010, 21:58

Bigger turbo hybrid t28 and having faith in the forged pistons fitted, one was pitted on the crown but otherwise good condition. If any det is experienced I will switch it down right away. Really though I will not be ragging it often 15 psi will not be a constant setting.

The idea of fitting Victors old Je pistons was always to be able to go above standard t16 power, I will be a bit gutted if det is noticed at 15psi! If so I would love to fit new forged pistons but the way this year is going that would be pushing it! Early days yet I guess... Still in fairness I am running at around 10psi ish atm and it is great fun!

E_T_V

23rd April 2010, 22:06

Ahh yes I forgot you were using Victors old pistons. Should be fine then so long as the rods cope with it.

2psi back to standard boost is a pretty big difference in my opinion performancewise!

You'll enjoy it!

countrydude

23rd April 2010, 22:18

Oh, good to hear you think it should be ok, I was hoping you had forgotten I had forged pistons! I am using an old boost guage atm which isn't zeroed properly, and reads in bar around .6 right now but it sits low so could be .8!! I must fit the other gauge! Problem is I am used to mechanical and the new one is electronic, and looks too modern for the car too!

countrydude

5th May 2010, 19:59

Up and running with the K7 gearbox, Much taller! I have pulled out onto the road, accelerated and sat in 4th a couple of times, that is how marked the difference is!

I should have done a few 1/4 sprints though! The t16 in a maestro with a Ti box would make an awesome Santa Pod car!

1st gear is something I can use now, rather than just something to spin the wheels up!

Glimpse of a shiny gearbox!
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0495.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0496.jpg
M series inlet, camcovers with the beginnings of polishing on the covers, I have removed 99% of the paint now but as always that is the easy bit! Once the surfaces were bare the deep scratches were to the surface! I used 80 grit discs on an anglegrinder, then scotchbrite discs on a drill. The results need finishing as I only had a battery drill to hand - 14v doesn't last long!

The closeup photo shows the original finish on the inlet. This is for the hardcore only, as the angluar nature of the surface means hand sanding is the best way. Again starting with 80 grit, 120, 240, 400, 600, 1000. The finish is someway of as I need to get 2000 grit and then polish. Sad though it is this was literally hours of work!
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0497.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0498.jpg
Oh, and for the record the gearbox is a gold label K7 box fitted to the early Montego turbos with steel caged bearings. A type B torsen diff was fitted at a later date as I think these were not fitted with a diff? Could be wrong there.

I fitted a quickshift and modded the gearlinkage to the steering u\j to improve the feel and precision. This is a great improvement I would recommend to anyone with a M car, or even a car!

countrydude

10th May 2010, 19:36

Cam covers painted up and sanded back:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0502.jpg

I used plasicote which is fine, leaves a good finish but I may well redo them in time with a powdercoat finish as the paint is too soft.

Just showing the lowness:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0503.jpg

The main hit point:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0504.jpg

And hopefully the solution. I think they may well be too harsh as I have wound them all the way up:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0505.jpg

G51 NAV

10th May 2010, 20:18

Wow I like the covers!

countrydude

10th May 2010, 20:41

Cheers Jon I have had them for a while now. Just finished them today as I only recently found some carriers to allow fitting them to the engine.

They are looking good, I can't wait to fit them and then bring the engine bay upto spec. Given a couple of months I may be able to just drive it, rather than pull parts off and tinker all the time. Although I do like to tinker!!

E_T_V

10th May 2010, 20:44

The covers do look lovely.

The engine mount I'm less keen on!

Mmmm nice suspension though.... I want for my van!

countrydude

10th May 2010, 20:58

Yes, I might have to have another look at the mount, it is a bit clunky. Too bulky and always hits the floor! It was just an easy solution that was there. In fairness it does the job really well, with the top steady bar mount the engine is going nowhere! If you come across a suitable bushing for the mount let me know!

ratty

11th May 2010, 08:44

I use the same shocks on the Gooon, so if you find them too hard and wish to sell I'll have them for spares.

If you need softer springs then contact Gary at Gaz and he'll sort them out for you, he can also rebuild the shocks if needed. Do you know what poundage springs are fitted to the shocks?

countrydude

11th May 2010, 09:01

they are the springs fitted when I bought them so no, not a clue. I may look at getting different springs, I'll let you know if they turn out to be more trouble than they are worth.

Chris Y

11th May 2010, 09:45

If they're from a pukka race Maestro, they'll be around the 400-450 pound mark.

Some of them have the poundage written (scored) on the flat part on the top (or bottom) of the spring - might be worth a look there.

countrydude

11th May 2010, 10:37

They are on and I am happy with the height, the ride too is good. Firm but usable. I'll see how I go for now. It is better than the speed bump grazing height I was at! Next time I see a ti in a yard I'll have a look at the sump mount and see if I can use part of it in the mount as it is a bit clunky and I would have a good 1/2" extra clearance without it!

countrydude

11th May 2010, 19:54

Today's playing:
New stance, spring rate is fine. Damping may be a little lacking at some speed so possibly a rebuild could be on the cards.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0514.jpg

Finally got the polishing wheel and wax to give the finished shine:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0507.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0509.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0512.jpg

There are a few areas still need more work but I was chuffed to start getting a real shine!

G51 NAV

11th May 2010, 19:57

Very impressive mate that looks the business!!

countrydude

12th May 2010, 22:57

I have now tweaked the damping rate and the front suspension is good, well awesome actually! The body roll is now zero and handles like a dream. I now need to lift the back end up as it is sitting about 1" lower than the front.

I have no other option available than to cut down some spare estate springs. I know this isn't such a great solution but I have been on the look out for rear adjustable suspension for ages, since before I even started this project. Nothing came up so I have to cut the springs down. I have access to a gas welder so I can do a proper job, I just need to do a lot of cutting down to find the right height!

Unless anyone has another idea of getting the rear lifted a tad?

ratty

13th May 2010, 07:47

Gaz can sell you custom length springs for about £30 a side

Just tell them what internal diameter and spring length you need, proberably 200/250lb springs for road use

countrydude

13th May 2010, 08:52

Cheers for the info Ratty, I have just phoned them, I'll measure up what I need, send them a rear spring and they will make them up. Not sure what poundage the rears are but it is MUCH softer than the Leda's on the front. I would like to match the feel as it is superb!

countrydude

19th May 2010, 21:41

Many trials and tribulations trying to set the camber on the Leda shocks. I have fitted the standard shocks back on for now. I will have another go with a set of scrap tyres I am really hoping I didn't throw out! Mysteriously camber of -1 was quickly thrown out to +3 or there abouts on both sides by driving down the road. I have mislaid my camera atm which is just as well!

I did just remove the steering wheel for a clean as I have been continuously working on my car for so long it was in a right oily state!

Cilit Bang! and then some leather food (meguiars) and thankfully it is back to a good condition again. The Cilit Bang is harsh stuff so I didn't leave it on long at all as it could do more harm than good. Being tan leather it is quite rare and would be tricky to find a similar/suitable replacement. It has some marks but is just a sign of age! Now that is worth a photo, me without a camera!

countrydude

24th June 2010, 10:08

Coilovers back with fixed camber brackets which is great, after some messing about I have another small addition I'm just waiting on a couple of bits of welding before fitting:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0531.jpg
A t28 that was fitted to a skylne. It has a bored 60 comp housing to take a larger hks wheel. The exhaust side was a 64 housing which had a bizarre upside down turbo to elbow flange! This has been replaced with a 86 pulsar housing. I went for a turbo like this for the extra kick of a t28 (this one with the larger wheel is getting close to a t3) while not loosing the early spool of the t25. Using the bigger exhaust flange will change the turbo but according to Wilky (Rovertech turbo guy - highly recommended btw) there will only be around 200rpm in it, so no great loss there. I bought a hks blow off valve which is the welding job I'm waiting on.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0532.jpg
Worst case scenario is a couple of weeks and it's back on the road. I may well get bored and put the t25 back on next week though. I'll update you all then.

I'm looking forward to a crazy light front wheel drive nutcase machine! (with bloody good suspension thank god!) Being as everything is new and uprated the car already handles really well. With the t28, the extra handling ability from the leda's will come in handy I'm sure!

thomas

24th June 2010, 18:37

That's going to be one quick car just a couple of questions with all that power do you think you will have torque steer troubles and is the insurance crippling. I only ask as sometimes you get cheaper quotes on modified cars. Also looks lovely

countrydude

24th June 2010, 19:01

Yes it already torque steers with the t25 so it will be worse with the t28. Tbh it is something you quickly get used to and is not really a big issue. My insurance is with adrian flux. They are good on modified policies. Mine is a declared modification policy. I have listed all the modified parts and they will replace like for like if the worst were to happen. In this case it is much better than an agreed value as the sum of the parts outweighs the value of the car by a good factor!
It is a project I have wanted to do and planned for a few months. Hopefully I might be able to enjoy it and stop tweaking soon b

thomas

24th June 2010, 19:43

Sounds an awesome machine hope to sees video of it in action

countrydude

24th June 2010, 20:59

I did upload one a while ago. Photobucket seemed to convert it to another filetype and it wouldn't play? I'll have another go

countrydude

14th July 2010, 17:36

Ok, time for an update:

T28 fitted, from Wilky (indirectly) awkward one this as it had a bizarre exhaust housing when I first got it that was 180 degrees out on the housing to elbow flange! All sorted thanks to Wilky being a decent chap, I dropped around and he fitted a regular pulsar housing and gave the turbo a quick once over.
When first fitted it was none too impressive as the actuator spring is weak and only boosted to around 6 psi. Not quite what I had in mind. Also after a lot of off road time the new dump valve was not doing its job and I was not a happy chap.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0546.jpg
Shiny boost pipe! with a neat aluminum weld I thought it deserved a quick polish!
Luckily for me Mark has a weakness for Maestro's so after a quick call I pad him a visit. Some vacuum pipe re routing and clips here and there all was well.
The turbo is now set up to 12 psi on a boost controller, the actuator needs replacing as it is only coming up to full boost at 3.7 - 4k hopefully with a better spring this will come down to 3k.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0547.jpg
It is a bit of a monster now! I took a friend out in it who wasn't that impressed with the t25, with the new turbo and me being more used to the car admittedly, he was much impressed!
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0540.jpg
Front struts after rebuild and new flanges welding on.

New Shoes:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0549.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0550.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0551.jpg
tbh the jury is still out on these as it has converted the whole character of the car. There is no real subtly to it now, it is reflecting too much of what is under the bonnet. I will keep them on for now.

Captain Slow

14th July 2010, 19:06

If I were you I'd swap them back for the X spokes, personally.

Jez

14th July 2010, 19:38

Either change the wheels or the VDP badge for an MG! It is sooo wrong with those wheels! My old Vanden Plas 4 Litre R would turn in its grave, if it saw those things!

countrydude

14th July 2010, 20:20

I did expect that reaction here, and that is not me being critical at all. The wheels came up for sale at a good price and I thought I would give them a go as I would not loose any money if I just sold them on deciding they weren't right for the car.
They do allow a better brake setup under them, and the handling will be much better when reaching the top end of the power capabilities of the engine. With my turbo choice I am told is in the 300bhp region that figure is maybe a little ott but I am going for mid to high 200's.
Only other thing for me was even though the cross spokes looked good in the few pics in reality they desperately needed a refurb which works out to be more than I paid for the wheels and tyres! (they were getting progressively worse too)
So yes, in essence I totally agree, it has lost the total sleeper edge. The cross spokes did look great, but I think in the interests of better braking and handling these might just stay. I will leave them for now but looking to get a respray in either silver or gunmetal to go with the crome details or the hurricane grey respectively.

ChrisM

14th July 2010, 20:37

The wheels aren't too bad, but they'd definitely look better in silver or grey!

countrydude

14th July 2010, 20:53

Either change the wheels or the VDP badge for an MG! It is sooo wrong with those wheels! My old Vanden Plas 4 Litre R would turn in its grave, if it saw those things!
:) The project right in the first instance was hardly one that Vanden Plas would have entertained though is it? I always imagined it to be a model of maestro that the Austin Rover management didn't have the vision or the imagination to create. Much to their loss.

It is like the Vanguard of Maestros!

Jumturbo

14th July 2010, 21:08

I think the wheels look awesome!;) Must say that the car would look better in a different colour though and body colour grill. I reckon all black to match the wheels! Maybe even matt black! Not joking, but I saw a brand new porsche 911 in matt black and it looked awesome. Wouldn't be a street sleeper, but tbh, with that lowered suspension it's no street sleeper anyway! Well done on the mods, you've achieved a great deal there especially in the horsepower stakes. That will put the willies up anything on the road!:D Nice one, and for me keep those wheels on!;)

Chris Y

15th July 2010, 10:21

I'm interested in how you got the wheels to fit - are they the right PCD, or did something need modifying/drilling?

countrydude

15th July 2010, 10:35

They are TF alloys so a straight fit. Same as any MGF alloys.

matthewsemple

15th July 2010, 10:53

Yes, there is a massive range of F and TF wheels that fit on Maestro, Montego, Dolomite and TR7 without any difficulties. Although unlikely, because they are only building 50 cars, I am just waiting for someone to put a set of these on a Maestro:

http://www.cars-wallpapers.net/wp-content/uploads/2009-mg-tf-85th-anniversary-2.jpg

Jumturbo

15th July 2010, 12:31

Yes, and i must admit they tend to suit the Maestro more than the Montego as they fill the arches better especially the bigger 7.5x16" items. I think the ones countrydude has gone for really suit the Maestro.

Chris Y

15th July 2010, 14:13

Ah, didn't recognise them as TF/F wheels, due to the colour :)

countrydude

15th July 2010, 14:56

Yes I think these are original paint and have not been resprayed, they certainly have not had much use, I think there is one tiny fleck of paint missing apart from that immaculate. I think these are 7j, currently with 195's which seems odd to me as they are standard width for a 6j wheel. They are in good shape but will be replaced with 215's when the time comes.

Mal has a white monty turbo with the same wheels but in silver, I remember seeing it at the barn, I thought they looked the part there too.

countrydude

14th August 2010, 19:30

Finally got the engine bay cleaned up so I thought I'd post a pic:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0566.jpg

Russ

15th August 2010, 17:20

Looking really good mate

countrydude

15th August 2010, 17:56

Cheers Russ, it should have the M series cam covers on it but when we came to putting the new cam followers on (as a few were rattling before) we realised you need to make up some quite big plates to cover oilways in the head. Also it turns out you should never fit different cam carriers to a head as they will be individually made to each head.

I will look into getting a 5mm spacer made up so I cam tap into that for the cam covers as I would be gutted to never use them, they are a work of art!

Lankytim

15th August 2010, 18:40

Just found this thread. Awesome and totally inspiring for a conversion novice like me!

Is the new engine based on the design of the old one? Do all the engine and gearbox mounts line up? Sorry if this is common knowledge, as I said- i'm a novice!

countrydude

15th August 2010, 18:49

Is the new engine based on the design of the old one? Do all the engine and gearbox mounts line up?

Yes, it is an o series block with a 16 valve head. You can reuse all the old engine mounts and do an ample job at keeping the engine still. I uprated some of the engines internals so I uprated the mounts accordingly, although I did add one that isn't usually fitted to the maestro being the sump to front crossmember which I would strongly advise.

countrydude

9th December 2010, 22:20

countrydude

9th December 2010, 22:36

Oh, and for the record a friend has recently done the classic rover bubble conversion with the t16 engine. By all accounts they should be a fair match, similar weight and same engine. All that is different is a turbo really seeing as I'm using around 10psi atm I'm not really using the benefit of the pistons!

We did a classic drag race. First gear was all about wheel spin, second started the same then I found some grip then I literally flew past, into 3rd and I was upto the national speed limit for a b road ;)

All power to the T16, in the form of a maestro unbeatable!

We recounted stories of what happened, seems he changed into 3rd earlier as the t25 ran out of puff. I just nailed it to the redline and that was the point I flew past. I'll get to a dyno soon to get some results. till then:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG_0570.jpg

E_T_V

10th December 2010, 19:22

Running well and pulls like a relentless train. The turbo doesn't come on fully till mid to late 3k atm at around 2.5k it is boosting but the real kick in the back isn't till say 3.6k this may well be a sloppy actuator setting as it runs 5psi off the actuator!

I have a couple of future mods to run by people:

Adjustable suspension top mounts. These are made for a R200, the idea is to cut turrets off a coupe shell, then slice the lid off and weld the tops in allowing adjustable camber and castor settings. Importantly this gets rid of the top bush that allows the suspension to slop around on steering and acceleration.

At the same time I'm going to have a look at the rear beam and see if I can fit r200 rear hubs as they use a single piece taper bearing. The rear bearings are eaten very quickly with the turbo engine. They do also make rear camber plates which I'm sure I could make fit.

It is all about refinement. Currently I have a hooligan that does handle well, with these mods it will handle much better and be able to transfer more power onto the road. At the same time if I can sort out rear hubs and camber with taper bearings that don't need changing every few months then I'll be happy!

Get the actuator running 7psi or thereabouts and you may see the boost come in sooner. It does on other T28's I've been in ;)

Cutting out the top of the struts and welding in others isn't what I'd do. Too many opportunities to give problems. Welding will have to be VERY accurate to keep the geometry straight, and then there is the welding itself which will need to be good and will always be a weakpoint from a fatigue point of view.

I think it would be easier to make or adapt some top mounts to the existing strut tops rather than do a fair bit of metalwork. Its not something I've tried myself though.

As for the rear hubs, the rear bearings shouldn't be giving you issues. Something must be amiss if you are eating them that fast? Worn drums? or perhaps stub axle? I presume you are only doing them up hand tight or simiar, they don't need a lot of pressure and you need to install the bearings the right way round (I have seen someone do it wrong once!).

You can also make camber plates easily for the standard axle too. All they are is a bit of plate drilled and surface ground to the desired taper.

countrydude

10th December 2010, 20:04

Good input as always Dan, yes it shouldn't be too much work to reform the top mount to fit the existing turret. I'll have a look at the actuator. I think the drums are worn. I'll dig around for some spares which I think I have.

I tend to give the rear bearings a good torque as the centre spacer will take up any excess pressure. Everytime I set the bearing to the book torque I found the bearing would not be pulled into the face of the hub enough and would already show some play.

E_T_V

10th December 2010, 20:58

Is the spacer supposed to be tight between the bearings though? I'm not sure. I've only ever done a handful and i've only done them up till all the play has gone, then knocked it back the tinyest amount. This is usually either hand tight or just above. It has always worked for me so to be honest I've never read what it should be in the book!

countrydude

10th December 2010, 21:27

hmm, I'm not sure either tbh. What sort of mileage have you seen on the rear bearings?

I think I have seen around 15-20 ish on the estate and that is with a fair weight. With that in mind I'm guessing my hubs are a bit of a mess.

E_T_V

10th December 2010, 22:01

I've not changed one under 100k yet aside from on my ledbury van where they were put on with an airgun :(

Never had to change one that I've fitted so I guess 60k miles minimum.

countrydude

10th December 2010, 22:24

err, holy carp? I'd best have a look at my hubs all around then.

E_T_V

11th December 2010, 20:26

The van ones are even more hardy. I changed the ones on my old camper at 200k and they were the originals. Mind you they are a lot bigger bearings.

countrydude

11th December 2010, 20:42

yes, I bought a set in error, steel caged too, very hardy. That will mean switching to 100 pcd and front drive flanges too, I was thinking of this anyway for the r200 rear hubs so I will keep it in mind.

E_T_V

11th December 2010, 21:20

Van hubs are 4.5inch pcd.

threelitre

11th December 2010, 22:10

For the book: I can't remember my father's MG Maestro has ever received new bearings at the rear - at over 220k miles. Similar for the Montego estates (but we have not had these from new).

Regards,

Alexander

countrydude

2nd January 2011, 20:09

I have fitted some very low mileage rear hubs with what I suspect to be original bearings! Oh for the record, they were tightened ft!

My tax is up for renewal at the end of jan. I'm thinking of taking the maestro off the road for a while as I have decided to go with a few more changes.

I'm going to fit an O series water pump and alternator. At the same time I will fit a manual rack so I can remove the T series ancillary housing off the front of the engine.

The manual rack will give a better feel of the road and simplify the hoses under the bonnet. Mainly the waterpump movement will allow for more room across the front of the engine. I don't know if I will but this does then allow ample room for a bigger turbo...

I was always thinking of a fat turbo for this car, I very narrowly missed a t28/t34 hybrid with this room and the right manifold will allow a better t3/t4 family setup. I'm not going to go sacrificing driveability or anything too rash here, if I even do this at all. The current turbo is a massive improvement over the standard unit and is ample for now.

Mainly I liked the idea of clearing the engine bay of all parts that could fatigue and that don't have to be there. In the process if I can loose a bit of weight and tidy up what I currently have fitted then I will do so.

I still have a complete stainless waterpipe set to fit, newly acquired samco waterpipes, 2.75" snakehead downpipe, M series cam covers and inlet plenum, so you can see there is plenty to do. I'll keep you all updated and get some pics up as the work commences.

countrydude

25th April 2011, 19:10

Not much of an update but managed to give wheels some paint and new rubber: 225 40's front and 215's rear. Better grip demands more power so running 15psi quick pic earlier:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20110425-00078.jpg

countrydude

6th July 2011, 19:55

A few updates, I managed finally to fit the coupe seats, this is a relief as I was wondering what was the best solution. I ended up buying some rover 100 seats which fitted and were better than the original vp leather seats support wise. Then in an idle few mins on the internet I found a pdf on metropower telling me how to split and rebuild the seats onto the 100 seat bases!

A rare result for the maestro. I bought the seats for a fair price so I didn't mind ripping them up:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20110629-00014.jpg

Sadly I had to break up the wiring to find a fault, this did give me a chance to get my final plan in place wiring wise so I was happy (or I am now!)

The mess:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20110630-00016.jpg

The solution:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20110706-00023.jpg

I gave the engine bay a good clean from winter, it is looking good now:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20110706-00027.jpg

I have a few things planned which should be within the next few weeks so I'll update then. I'm just relieved to have everything wiring wise finished. With a new rotor arm, plugs, recent new filter, oil and filter the maestro is in devestating form! Ask any local drivers in the cb1 area!

G51 NAV

6th July 2011, 20:11

Nice update CD, thanks for posting it.

ChrisM

6th July 2011, 21:08

Those seats look great!

countrydude

6th July 2011, 21:21

Thanks Chris, they are as confortable as they look! I'm chuffed to finally have fitted what I thought would be ultimate seats for this car. (even if it took nearly a year to fit them!)Those seats look great!

Jumturbo

6th July 2011, 21:25

An unique and impressive machine! You' ve achieved a great deal with this car....it's a credit to you!;)

countrydude

7th July 2011, 08:20

Thanks Jum, all my friends joke that I'm completely obsessed with it, which I don't deny! I don't think there are many cars that look like your Grandad should be driving it but will outperform 95% of cars on the road! An unique and impressive machine! You' ve achieved a great deal with this car....it's a credit to you!;)

MG Maestro Van

7th July 2011, 21:32

Yes I think the driver of a 57 plate VXR Astra on friday night got a bit of a shock at how fast my van is! Haha ;)

Seats look exelent in there too!

wee_dav

19th July 2011, 18:26

Seats look amazing! Are they from an 800?

countrydude

19th July 2011, 20:12

they are from a late spec 220 coupe.

wee_dav

20th July 2011, 17:37

Nice. Maybe keep an eye out for a set. I have the vp ones and they are reasonably comfy but not as good and supportive as my old rover montego ones were! Good luck with the car mate! Looking good!

countrydude

20th July 2011, 22:11

Thanks for the compliment, the right seats can really set a car off and these are well suited.

countrydude

25th July 2011, 19:02

Here is a pic of the latest and I think the last modification to the car as I'd like a car to drive not a constant project and drain of any spare time I might have. I bought the head as the current one has a few noisy tappets, leaking cam seals. As a bonus the head has 270 cams and verniers.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20110725-00035.jpg

The head has a small amount of damage to cylinder 1 most of this will come off with my plan of grinding down the surface of all hemispheres, only leaving a small amount of welding to be done which I'm hoping I can get done by a friend ho owes me a favor or 2! While I'm there I will take the valves out and generally tidy up, nothing too drastic as I don't know where all the waterways run.

I'm thinking this will be a winter project to take the maestro off the road and release back onto the road with new head next spring! This will be tough and I will miss driving it. But tbh it needs a new rear arch and some other areas need fettling so it seems well timed to do this at the same time.

countrydude

1st August 2011, 20:55

I was going to update this after tearing up the neighborhood in it, as well as the m seires polished inlet, I have a forge actuator with a 15psi spring set at a little over 1/2 hole hopefully this should give me around 16-17psi tbh if it is 15 I'll be happy as the spring is so tough I know my boost will be solid. Full samco coolant set, not fully fitted oweing to an issue with the lower coolant rail. I can see a way around it but lets hope tomorrow brings a better solution than cutting up a few hoses. As the picture shows I have gone for a 220 layout under a maestro bonnet. After much planning and tinkering (still more to come, note it isn't full of antifreeze yet!) I aim to get my 4 pots on tomorrow too.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/SouthCambridgeshire-20110801-00046.jpg

countrydude

3rd August 2011, 21:44

After that I'm quite chuffed with the next pic. I wanted to fit a ti washer bottle into the bumper to get rid of a bottle sitting in the engine bay. It fouled the bumper so that idea was binned but a friend was scrapping a mondeo and I spied a useable bottle. The washer motor uses reverse to feed the rear washer so I need to sort out some relays to reverse the polarity but for now I'll just use forwards and forget about the rear!

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/SouthCambridgeshire-20110803-00048.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/SouthCambridgeshire-20110803-00051.jpg

Honestly I didn't think I'd go down this route. I am fortunate to firstly get on well with Mark who runs silverstorm so I have access to his products and also his ideas on improving things. When the car was first put on the road I did see it as a building block and far from the finished article. I think it is nearing finished, or at least looking that way. But we all know about looks don't we ;)
What the photos don't show is the ap calipers are not far from being fitted, I'm waiting on a male to male fitting to go into the tf lines to then fit on the car. Annoyingly I got my measurements wrong and another 3.5mm needs to come off the discs so hopefully this will be done in the next few days.

E_T_V

3rd August 2011, 22:11

From memory the TF lines screw straight into the maestro standard ones.

countrydude

3rd August 2011, 23:31

no they don't. Female to female fittings.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200629182276&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:1123

These are the fittings I'm using to use the standard pipes.

countrydude

10th September 2011, 19:37

Not a lot happening atm, just waiting on father to turn some discs down for the 4 pots and I'll slot them on. With a bit of luck that will be this week.

Under all the coolant hoses and stainless pipe fitting I have fitted a new forge actuator with a 15psi spring so I can get rid of all boost control and just use the actuator spring.

I was getting boost wavering around the 15 psi mark, backing off as it went through the rev range. This is a sign of a weak actuator spring so on standard items time to replace!

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20110909-00071.jpg
Everything but the fuel filter and cam belt engine mount is now in place making the 220 engine bay in a maestro 99% complete! I only know of this happening once before in Andy Nichols old maestro which is still around in some guise. Hopefully back on the road this or next week. As much as I do like driving my derv monty nothing clears out the cobwebs like a blast in the maestro, especially at 15 psi!! There are 2 Simon's on here who can vouch for this, one sat in it, the other got left behind it:) (He was driving a Golf, it had to be done:P)

G51 NAV

10th September 2011, 19:44

so if that's the expansion tank on the bulkhead where the washer-fluid bottle should be...where's the washer fluid bottle?

countrydude

10th September 2011, 19:48

Look a couple of posts up, it is inside the bumper, with a swan neck that sticks up just behind the drivers side headlight. It is a mondeo unit, perfect fit too!so if that's the expansion tank on the bulkhead where the washer-fluid bottle should be...where's the washer fluid bottle?

countrydude

10th September 2011, 19:51

here:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/SouthCambridgeshire-20110803-00048.jpg

Fits inside the bumper molding really well from a '94 mondeo

countrydude

17th September 2011, 20:49

I finally caught father in the workshop and I got to grips with the lathe and turned down a further 3.5mm off the discs, update of back up and running with better brakes, rock steady boost hopefully before the week is out!

Horrible job though turning down cast discs, grim. You get showered with hot shards of metal and you end up with a real task of cleaning down at the end as it just brakes up into fine particles which cover everything. Being cast iron they will pick up moisture from the air and corrode everything very quickly!

I have realised the maestro is my therapy, I can happily plod along in my monty diesel but it is much easier in the knowledge I have a nuts, all out rip snorter back at home!

countrydude

18th September 2011, 19:50

What can I say, my need is obviously so great I have the calipers fitted and blead up ready today!
I'll be on the road by tomorrow afternoon;)
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20110918-00077.jpg

Just need to sort out a rear wheel arch and front sill, I'm going down to the garage that is working on the rally maestro as they are doing such good work on Philip's car there, if anyone else has a good bodyshop relatively local to me please chip in now!!

countrydude

20th September 2011, 18:37

Brakes on, and bedded in, stopping much better. The new actuator on the turbo is boosting up to 18psi and holding rock solid so it feels a lot faster than before. I have only been out in it a few times so far but it pulls relentlessly right up to the redline. In low gears it hits the limiter so quick, a really interesting and fundamental difference. A spring in an actuator has totally converted the power delivery.http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/SouthCambridgeshire-20110920-00090.jpg
About ready for a dyno run I think...

E_T_V

20th September 2011, 22:45

*jealous*

threelitre

21st September 2011, 10:01

With this sort of power awailable - ever thought about putting the gearing from a Turbo Diesel (L-series?) in it?

Apart from the wheels my LPG's 1.3 looks very similar - but the differences underneath are quite - erm - large. I like your approach!

Regards,

Alexander

countrydude

21st September 2011, 10:26

The k7 gearset is well matched to the engine, I think if the diesel ratios were used the power band would be too high up and it would be a tricky downshift to keep in boost. It would still be good once within the right rev range but off the line I think it would suffer. I haven't seen it but I think there is a spreadsheet that shows the ratios. I remember being told 2nd gear on a derv box would give 90mph @ 6000rpm. So top speed would be huge but really it would be quite unusable compared to now when no matter what speed there is always a gear to select and you're not far off boost.

countrydude

21st September 2011, 20:54

*jealous*

:D A lot of the credit for this car does go to Rover forums and my questioning nature. Without them this car would never have existed. I will have to make some time one year soon to come to a show so you can all see this car in the flesh. I'm a bit of a perfectionist as you can probably see in this thread, so it is difficult for me to be happy enough to show it. In the next year or so it should be 'finished'!

I'll get a quick vid up soon, my parents genuinely live on an approx mile long private road. It is a narrow farm drive so it is pretty gnarly but it will give a great idea of the nature of the beast.

I'm thinking of a dyno run possibly next week sometime, I'll keep you posted.

Jumturbo

21st September 2011, 21:06

my parents genuinely live on an approx mile long private road. It is a narrow farm drive so it is pretty gnarly but it will give a great idea of the nature of the beast.

:cool:

You also have your own drag strip!;)
Maybe instead of you coming to a show we could all come to you and do some 1/4 mile runs!:D

Great work!;)

countrydude

21st September 2011, 21:16

Maybe instead of you coming to a show we could all come to you and do some 1/4 mile runs!:D

Great work!;)

haha, if anyone is passing cambridge they are welcome to drop me a message if they would like a quick blast out in a crazy maestro!

threelitre

22nd September 2011, 09:41

haha, if anyone is passing cambridge they are welcome to drop me a message if they would like a quick blast out in a crazy maestro!

Now there's a plan to keep in mind - as we visit Cambridge about every year sometimes during our holidays. And always bring something BMC->Rover - last time a VP 1300 automatic - surely a little contrast to your VP 2.0 EFi turbo 16v...

Regards,

Alexander

countrydude

22nd September 2011, 11:58

just booked into a rr session on tuesday. I'll post up then.

countrydude

27th September 2011, 21:33

Sadly developed a splutter low down at 2.5k and I think the turbo is smoking a bit. The power delivery seems irratic at times, especially when running on motorway for a bit. I have made contact about a rebuild and really thankfully the Rolling road owners were good enough to not mind too much me canceling right at the last minute! I'll keep tweaking and keep you posted, sadly not the post I was hoping for tonight!

E_T_V

27th September 2011, 23:03

Check/change the leads as that is the point that they are most likely under the most stress! Also the rotor arms aren't exactly reliable either.

countrydude

27th September 2011, 23:33

yes, i have been used to both of those, i now have magnacore leads and lucas cap and arm which i find so much better than anything else.

there is still an odd boost delivery once everything is up to temp. i wonder if the turbo is worse than i thought and the bearing is breaking up. Odd it is fine on the warn up though. the spluttering hasn't come back since we plugged the cam sensor back in but that has only been earlier today.

i did a compression test to eliminate engine blowing oil and it came out at around 147psi on each bore. they were so consistent.

Russ

27th September 2011, 23:47

Dont want to worry you Phil,but this is just what my 16V did before the fast car test and the bastid had metled a piston:mad:

countrydude

28th September 2011, 08:59

i thought of that as i had det, even though i have forged pistons they aren't bomp proof! luckily with the boost wound right up i only did a few miles as i knew it could be detting.

i did a compression test yesterday, 148 ish across all bores so engine is fine:)

countrydude

17th October 2011, 15:25

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20111017-00004.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20111017-00005.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20111017-00006.jpg

threelitre

17th October 2011, 16:23

Impressive! But what's up with the AFR? Nice and rich above 3500 - but at the begin of the run?

Alexander

countrydude

17th October 2011, 17:03

Not sure what you mean, it was around 18.8 on tickover. When the turbo maxes out it leans out to 11 which is a little lean but it shouldn't be seen as a problem as it soon edges back up towards 12 ish.

E_T_V

17th October 2011, 20:32

AFR before the turbo comes in is a bit too lean. Turbo seems to come in a little late. What is it? Pulsar one?

countrydude

17th October 2011, 20:46

yeah, it drops to 11 at 3.5k which is not good, it does seem odd as the boost doesn't max out until 4 so i'm not really sure what is going on there. Yes the turbo is a t28 with a larger hks comp wheel and an 86 exh housing. I have thought it is a little late as that shows 4k peak boost.

I think I will get the other head built up, hopefully get some money to get it ported, cams etc. I'll double check the actuator while everything is off as something is not quite right. I seem to remember 3.5-3.8k full boost before, but I wasn't boosting so high then so it could well be fine.

E_T_V

18th October 2011, 20:19

It isn't the dropping to 11 that I'd worry about, that is safe but'll lose you a little power. The issue is it running lean as the turbo spools.

If the rev scale is out then that would explain a lot. Did he hit the rev limter on the dyno?

countrydude

18th October 2011, 20:54

I have been told 11 is safe. I'm getting confused here, you say The issue is it running lean as the turbo spools, that is when the afr drops to 11.

The rev scale will be spot on as the dyno is one used for touring cars and is very high spec. It is a true a reading from a dyno certainly for miles around here. I travelled a good few to get there! I can't be sure about hitting the limiter, I would have thought so as he seemed quite a pragmatic kind of guyIt isn't the dropping to 11 that I'd worry about, that is safe but'll lose you a little power. The issue is it running lean as the turbo spools.

If the rev scale is out then that would explain a lot. Did he hit the rev limter on the dyno?

E_T_V

18th October 2011, 21:04

AFR : Lower = richer/safer

General aim is a matter for debate but 11.5 is common.

Lower in the rev range it is running VERY lean which is a very bad thing if the turbo is on boost at the time.

countrydude

18th October 2011, 21:11

hmmm, well he thought it was fine. I have no idea other than I thought it was normal for the mix to be leaner on tickover. As you say it enrichens on boost what is there that could cause this? What would you expect the values to be?

ratty

19th October 2011, 07:23

As I stated on triple-m, off boost is not ideal being 18 should aim for 14.4 dropping to 12 by 3000rpm

On boost 11.5 to 11.8 any richer risks bore washing and glazing the bores

My only concern is the 12.5 between 4000 and 4500 rpm as this is likely to det and could cause a failure

Other than a few tweaks to the map the curves and power look good. The turbo takes a while to get going but that is something that can be sorted later on

countrydude

19th October 2011, 08:56

So what is my next move then? Seems the lean mixture even on tickover is a potential issue, What would that be caused by? I thought mems was ok upto around 15 psi, I'm only running 16-17.

I thought everything was fine but obviously not,

countrydude

19th October 2011, 09:17

Being on mems that isn't an option, I may drop the boost until I get more info on thisOther than a few tweaks to the map the curves and power look good. The turbo takes a while to get going but that is something that can be sorted later on

ratty

19th October 2011, 10:05

Put mems where it belongs (the bin), not being able to map a turbo engine is asking for a melt down when you go beyond the maps parameters

countrydude

19th October 2011, 10:38

I agree, it is a longer term plan to go to omex or emerald. My main issue is the afr on tickover being 18.8 rather than the 14 you quote. That seems wildly out and will not be affected by me turning the boost up

ratty

19th October 2011, 11:44

No that is likely a lambda fault, the biggest concern is the on boost lean out which could be correct via bodge of fitting slightly large injectors or more fuel pressure

countrydude

19th October 2011, 11:51

Ah, ok I have a spare lambda, I'll fit that and see, thing is how will I tell if it is richer without an afr gauge!? I do have an intermittent issue with motorway cruising and then acceleration, seems lumpy and hesitant rather than smooth and progressive, another lambda fault?

ratty

19th October 2011, 12:14

That could be it being too lean, not enough fuel for acceleration enrichment.

Lambda is ignored above 2500/3000rpm or wide open throttle anyway as its response times are too slow for closed loop feedback

countrydude

19th October 2011, 15:02

I'll try the spare lambda and tweak the boost down for now. I might see about an adjustable fuel reg, but I'd rather leave it and switch to aftermarket management ideally. Thanks for the advice.

E_T_V

19th October 2011, 20:23

I'd also consider cleaning the injectors too.

Usually mems has enough fuel for 18psi and there is enough up top which is where you'd think it would begin to suffer. I'd also triple check the inmet manifold to ECU pipe to make sure it is clean and airtight. A tiny leak would give the same sort of issues.

countrydude

19th October 2011, 21:43

I'll do that Dan, cheers. I'll start with the lambda sensor next week and see if that clears anything up. I'll commit to an oil burning week and get the injectors tested and cleaned if necessary. I think I know a place local to here, I'll double check with Jerry.

threelitre

20th October 2011, 10:33

Oh, I didn't know it was still running standard mems. This, the AFR read out and your description of hesitation all point to a failing lambda sensor. Usually off-boost (where the engine should easily be within the specs for mems) the AFR should be at a stable 14.7 and mems is very effective at keeping it there once in closed loop. As a defect sensor will also affect the open-loop trim, the first step would be to fit a new (or good working) sensor - and then redo the test :)
AFR 18 is no big danger for an engine running part throttle - it might just be a little too lean for optimal fuel economy, but when power is wanted (as for a dyno run) it is not ideal. Not dangerous possibly... Some factory engines go to AFR ratios between 11.7 and 11 when enriching at high loads, this is done to keep the engine cooler and be able to fit cheaper components.

Regards,

Alexander

countrydude

22nd November 2011, 19:38

Things are getting busier with me so work on my car is slowing down, I have replaced the lambda sensor which then threw up increased tickover issues, I went to a local yard and got a spare throttle body. I then stripped both down, cleaned and rebuilt. Sadly I opted for the wrong throttle and managed to sell the one with the working stepper motor!

I went through many issues in finding gaskets that had broken causing vacuum leaks raising the tickover. At one point it was around 2.5k! I fixed all the leaks, then with the faulty stepper it dropped off to around 100rpm! Literally it was only running off the recirculation of air from the oil breather off the cam cover!

Luckily I managed to find a stepper on ebay from a seller I had bought from before so I knew it would be working. So the tickover, fueling and power all back A1. A bit too A1 as it goes...

Sadly I fitted an uprated friction disc (clutch) I only had a standard pressure plate to clamp it down with, it just couldn't handle the torque and it slips from 3rd gear onwards.

Today I ordered a bomb proof solution;)

E_T_V

23rd November 2011, 10:29

What did you order?

countrydude

23rd November 2011, 10:53

A kevlar clutch from Kestral Transmissions

E_T_V

23rd November 2011, 10:56

Fair enough. Remember that the flywheel has to be totally flat and the break in procedure is quite long on these. Otherwise they are good and what the diesel fraternity use for big torque figures.

countrydude

23rd November 2011, 11:16

I will check the flywheel, it is likely I will send it to them as they offer a free flywheel grind with each clutch.

They gave me a neat way of bedding it in, from stationary engage first gear and roll forwards 1ft, then reverse back. Repeat 100 times and the clutch will be bedded in.

It's not miles but gearchanges that bed it in.

E_T_V

23rd November 2011, 13:07

Or more accuratly number of times the clutch is slipped, but obviously not too much as that overheats and glazes them.

It isn't unusual for it to be weak for the first several thousand miles until it is bedded in fully.

countrydude

23rd November 2011, 18:41

The guy gave the method I wrote above and confidently stated that it will be fully bedded in after that. If not I shall be phoning him to ask why! I'm not going to be happy with a slipping clutch for 1000's of miles I've got places to be and bmw's to annoy!

E_T_V

26th November 2011, 12:05

I'm just going by the experiences of the diesel community (who tend to run a lot of torque)

countrydude

26th November 2011, 12:35

talking to them again they didn't say it will be completly bedded in after the method above, hopefully it won't be too long !

countrydude

28th November 2011, 21:46

A small chrsitmas present arrived from myself today, another arrived which I haven't picked up yet so I'll update with pics hopefully tomorrow, for now some kevlar clutchness

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20111128-00024.jpg

EVO AL

28th November 2011, 22:08

NNNNNNiiiiiiiCCCCeeeeee!

E_T_V

28th November 2011, 22:24

What is it rated to 300ftlb?

countrydude

29th November 2011, 09:01

They gave instances or over 400ftlb on a 4wd system, I have seen people give ratings of 350ftlb but as I say after talking to them they wouldn't give a fixed rating only giving instances where the torque handled was over 400ftlb.

Seems like a good reliable clutch, they say 5x the life of a standard clutch, so either I give it prolonged abuse and it lasts 100k or I use it normally and it outlasts the engine!;)

E_T_V

29th November 2011, 21:55

Kestral usually build it to your spec. Some people went for 300ftlb versions, some went for 350! The difference is usually how much friction material is cut away on the friction disc.

countrydude

29th November 2011, 22:22

That sounds odd, they didn't give any choice,

Them:'here is a clutch'

Me: 'Ok what power is it good for? Im currently running 279 with level torque values, I'm aiming for around or just over the 300 mark.'

Them:'Oh that will be fine, we have people running over 400 on a 4wd setup which puts a much greater strain on the clutch than a 2wd gearbox so at 300 you will be safe.'

I had a quick look on Grant's site which seemed to be identical clutches, he had a 270ftlb version and I think a 350.

The guy with Drew's 1.4 forged k series has an identical clutch, I'm sure he said it was rated at 350

E_T_V

29th November 2011, 22:28

I think I put grant onto kestral and he now gets his from their. The diesel crew used them for high torque where 250ftlb is a fairly normal mildly tuned car!

Motobuild actually sell the diesel clutch as an upgrade for the T16 turbo!

I think the diesel ones were usually 300 or 350ftlb. I'm guessing they had one lying about from an incomplete order as they are usually made to order.

How much was it if it isn't a rude question?

I went the helix paddle route for my diesel if I ever need it but I don't think I will.

countrydude

29th November 2011, 23:10

It was made to order 4-5 day turnaround.

countrydude

30th November 2011, 18:41

My other recent addition, these I'm hoping will really get the handling of my car spot on. I'll fit them next week and get the ride height right by eye, then the following week it will be corner weighted. This much power is amazing but I really want it to be as solid as possible. Because of the front suspension being so great there is no body roll, I just want the back to stay more sturdy cancelling ovesteer and to allow better turn in. I have 300lbs springs on these with 350's on the front. It might be a bit keen but springs aren't hugely expensive. I spoke with Mark who then spoke to Gaz about what I wanted to do and this is what they recommended.http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20111130-00030.jpg

Not many items on the maestro shopping list left now...

countrydude

15th February 2012, 19:32

mot passed today, needed a bit of welding, sadly living on a farm that gets very muddy is not good for a maestro. Car will need serious welding work this year if it is to carry on. I have decided to get underneath and prepare to underseal it this summer and assess if it is worth carrying on. This may sound harsh but I'm not about to move off a farm anytime soon! If the car can't live here without rotting away then i may well have to find another home for it.

Whatever happens I really hope it can live on in the maestro as it is nuts! I spend a lot of time swearing at it's hold over my free time but when it runs right it is like nothing else!

The car does need a rear wheel arch, ideally a far side sill, there is also rust in that annoying seam on the a pillars on the drivers side and rust all around the windscreen where the old screen became unbonded and just let the rain in!

Clutch is just about bedded in now, so car is back to being it's former self!

Simon

17th February 2012, 18:44

It's one hell of a car. Bodywork on that is worth doing (and doing well) any day of the week.

countrydude

17th February 2012, 21:54

Yes you are right, just I begrudge it from time to time. It saps a lot of my free time. I feel I have put a lot of time in over a few years now. It is just a bit gutting to see how much work there is left to do. Especially fairly specialised work that I can't do myself. I'll get a few quotes and see where we go.

The clutch can't be far off solid now, I pulled away onto a dual carridgeway tonight, (after chasing an ignition error so I was more listening out for a slight miss through the rev range) 2nd gear was slow but perfect, so I gave it some beans into 3rd and 4th, crazy acceleration! I don't think the old clutch was ever keeping up with the flywheel! I'll try and get a few vids at some point, I need to get a suction window holder and have a play. I've tried with my phone but I need hands free to get the best.

countrydude

11th April 2012, 14:25

Finally managed to find a good catch tank. Ive blanked the top one off for now, I've ordered another length of hose to go onto the other end cam cover breather so then no oil will get into the inlet. I've fitted a breather pipe plate onto the old o series oil filler hole behind the turbo which lets the crankcase breathe. After talking to many people the t16 breather setup is pretty poor, especially if running more than standard boost. I recon with the front plate the pressure will be much more evened off.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20120411-00069.jpg
The picture is hiding a wiring birds nest that is getting sorted as we speak. I've just postponed fitting piper 270 cams until next week now as the workshop is full with a casualty jcb today! So a couple of updates to come with some tidy wiring and hopefully cams. I'm hoping this will be successful, I'm trying to convert wasted spark cams to dizzy. I have to get a cam sensor lug in with great precision. It may end in tears! I have boh end cam seal leaking currently so even if that side of things doesn't work I will at least stop an oil leak.

countrydude

13th April 2012, 18:20

Wiring tidy! This was necessary as I had reworked the reworked wiring 3 or 4 times due to fault finding, improving the standard of fuse holders, fan control... etc!
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/philstan/IMG-20120413-00070.jpg
So all relays in a selaed box, fuse holders in water tight holders. Should be set for the life of the car now. Back to running 100% too as I found a problem with the cam sensor wiring, seems to be pulling much better and giving better mpg too.

Simon

13th April 2012, 20:47

Top work, very neat and tidy. What's the blue thick wire for?

countrydude

13th April 2012, 21:04

It is live to the fuel pump. Ideally I'd have rerouted that too, for the sake of it I will get that tucked away.

I'd like to take the credit for the tidy wiring but I can't:) I soldered in the cam sensor plug and 2 new fuse holders and was then confronted with such a mess head hurt! I sent the car off to be done. Cost me a couple of hours labour but things like that I don't mind paying for. It is done properly and is now really secure. Better than I have seen on many rovers, but that isn't saying much sadly!

countrydude

18th April 2012, 22:29

I had a bit of smoke blowing out today so I checked the turbo, which was fine, checked compression which was a tad high which is no big problem. I removed the turbo elbow expecting to see oil but nothing. In the end I had to look at my breather mods as this had only been happening since they were made. Since the picture on here I had plugged every breather into the can; 2 cam breathers and the front o series oil filler breather. On the top of the can I put the line going to the inlet to give vacuum. I kept wondering if that was enough as on the standard setup the 2nd cam breather is hooked directly up to the inlet so the breather uses 2 vacuum sources.

I have now plumbed the 2nd cam breather back in as standard into the inlet. This leaves one pipe on the can free so I'm thinking of leaving it venting to atmosphere. For now it seems fine. I went for a short drive and sat in traffic for a short while and had no repeat of smoke.

I was worried at first but the turbo is fine, compression higher than a standard engine, and when you want it to the engine is responsive with no flat spots. Hopefully my instinct is right and those few tweaks will stop the smoke. Covering the remaining pipe on the can on tickover there is a small amount of vacuum so it would seem fine. Just not enough to cover all 3 breathers from one 10mm pipe.