possible gear box trouble

[steve smith]

since i have got my ledbury home i am having trouble getting reverse even after fitting a new clutch i am also having trouble getting any gears after a long drive i have changed the oil in the gear box this has made no differance.

trying reverve u have to turn engine off to get it could this be a gear box fault?

[G Force]

Hi, it sounds more likely to be a problem with the new clutch.:(

[steve smith]

hoe can it be ? it is giving the same trouble as when the centre plate on the clutch went so must be the box?

[G Force]

hoe can it be ? it is giving the same trouble as when the centre plate on the clutch went so must be the box?

If you can select the gears ok with the engine switched off, then that would suggest the clutch is not clearing and the input shaft is still rotating.

Investigate further into why the clutch went?? Could the new clutch be faulty?? Could the new clutch be the wrong one?? Were there any oil leaks?? Could the clutch be fit incorrectly?? Which parts of the clutch were changed??:confused:

[oseerees]

Clutch problem 99.9999999%

[steve smith]

i changed the whole clutch but it was a cheap one so i suppose i better go buy a proper one

[digital efi]

Five ideas:

Clutch cable has not auto-adjusted itself properly, so clutch is not disengaging fully.

Gearbox input shaft bearing collapsed, causing misalignment and therefore clutch plate contacting flywheel partially

Clutch thrust plate or release shaft worn down, so not enough travel when trying to release clutch

Clutch plate not sliding smoothly on splines (but you would have probably noticed that when you fitted it?)

Crankshaft thrust washers worn, so when you press the clutch down, the whole crankshaft moves forwards and there is no room left for the plate to clear the flywheel.

What was the original clutch/gearbox fault when you bought the car?

[E_T_V]

Definatly check the release bearing as it is removable with the box still in place I think.

[steve smith]

i have finally removed the box for the 5th time now have found the replacement clutch i fitted was a cheapo one the pressure plate was at fault i have found a complete kit with new pressure plate frition plate new bolts centre plate and clip.

[Peter J]

AS far as I can see, some of these replacement clutches don't look as good as the original. The one on the left of this picture is an original that has been on 18 years and done 100,000 miles. The one on the right is a brand new powertrain replacement. They both have the same lining thickness above the rivet heads - 1.6mm - even though the original has done 100,000 miles and the powertrain is brand new! The powertrain one also has grooves in the linings, smaller springs, and a centre boss that is both thinner (as you can see on the photo) and shorter - 22mm whereas the original is 25mm.

[E_T_V]

Are you sure the one on the left is an original? It doesn't look like any original one I've seen however it could be a heavy duty one (hence the lack of grooves) and is most likely asbestos which is longer lasting than most materials. The one on the left is duff as one of the springs is broke in the picture.

The one on the right is a more modern replacement and will work perfectly well.

[Peter J]

Yes, I know the one on the left is the original as it has just come off my 1991 1.3L Maestro van which I have had from new. I have both these plates in front of me now. The spring is not broken, - although the springs in the original do feel loose in their holders, unlike the new one in which all the springs are tight - I don't know why that is? So I don't know whether to put the new one on, or put the old one back?

PS: I have just added another photo which shows: Unlike the new one, the original has 2 spring holders longer than the other 2, I guess thats why it looked as though one spring was broken in the previous photo.
I have taken it off to replace the crank seal as it is dripping oil. I notice on another thread you have changed a crankshaft seal - Did you have to take the gearbox adaptor plate off, or were you able to prise the old crankshaft seal out and drift the new one in without?

[E_T_V]

I thought that the spring at 3 o'clock in the photo was missing a coil.

Here are the pics I took of my 600 clutch that I took out at about 198k miles! It again was the original one and the friction lining was at a servicable level according to the book! Strangely I didn't refit it though!

The springs should be tight, but so long as they aren't very loose and broken as mine are below then you could re-use it but as you have a new one I'd fit that and keep the other as a good spare as it'll be quieter than the original (the springs rattle normally when worn).


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2237/2517308824_8c2b873d41_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2142/2517308648_ea4bf6e6b1_o.jpg

As for the crank seal it is quite some time that I did it but I'm 95% sure that I didn't have to remove the adapter plate, I simply hooked out the old one and gently drifted in the new one. It was some years ago that I last did it though!

[Peter J]

Ahh I'll go with the new one then - the old one was working ok but the springs are very polished in places as though they have been rubbing a lot. Prising the old seal out would seem to save a lot of work - acording to the Haynes manual you have to take the engine out and sump off before you take the adaptor plate off :eek:
But I have followed the Haynes manual before and then found that I need not have dismantled as much as the manual said.

[steve smith]

well yesterday was spent taking the whole lot apart again i fitted the complete new clutch which came with new pressure plate bolts as well a new centre plate and release bearing refitted the lot with a 5 speed box from a 1.6 monty and i can now get all gears with clutch dipped and its a dream to drive.

[G51 NAV]

...a 5 speed box from a 1.6 monty...
That should be an interesting combination. From what others have said, Ledburies and Apple Maestros have quite a low-geared 'box as standard. I hear this makes them very nippy around town (if you can keep up with the blur of gearchanges) but are tiresome on a run.

[steve smith]

thats the other reason i have fitted the 1.6 monty box shes so much quiter on a run

[G Force]

I notice on another thread you have changed a crankshaft seal - Did you have to take the gearbox adaptor plate off, or were you able to prise the old crankshaft seal out and drift the new one in without?

Hi Peter J. I can confirm that it is not neccessary to remove the gearbox adapter plate to fit a new crankshaft rear oil seal. You can hook it out easily with a plastic cycle tyre lever to avoid damageing the crankshaft, and drift the new seal in gentley using a mallet and the old seal.

Gary:)

Oh and ps fit the new clutch plate, you will find a smoother take up of drive and no jerking on overrun. The old one probably has got some oil contamination even if its not that obvious.

[Peter J]

Hi Peter J. I can confirm that it is not neccessary to remove the gearbox adapter plate to fit a new crankshaft rear oil seal. You can hook it out easily with a plastic cycle tyre lever to avoid damageing the crankshaft, and drift the new seal in gentley using a mallet and the old seal.

Gary:)

Oh and ps fit the new clutch plate, you will find a smoother take up of drive and no jerking on overrun. The old one probably has got some oil contamination even if its not that obvious.

Thank You for the good advice :) I have done it, changing the crankshaft and gearbox seals and using the new clutch as you suggested. It was a clutch set I bought cheap on ebay as a spare, so after reading this thread I was beginning to wonder whether it would work, but it works a treat. I used to have a fairly loud rattling noise on tickover which has disappeared since I fitted this new clutch, so I guess that must have been the loose clutch springs.