Running problems

[Oli]

Hi guys,

My Maestro 1.3 has a very rough and random idle at the moment. - its died a couple of times in traffic with the choke out, when you try to restart it has none of it, put the choke back in all the way... turn the key and it splutters with a bit of throttle she fires into life again!
After a visit to my mate Ben we reckon we found the problem....:giveup:

Looks like someone has been messing with the vacuum pipes (see pic)

Now, when we pulled off the transparent pipe from the vacuum pump (?) the revs went much much higher but the engine sounded healthier.

Is it just a case of blanking this off/U bending it and then adjusting the idle speed?

Would you say that the above could be the cause? and is the vacuum pump needed on a manual choke setup?:confused:

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p364/olitheminiman/04022009006.jpg

All advice gratefully received.

Cheers then.

[E_T_V]

http://www.maestro.org.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=3101

http://www.maestro.org.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=6796

Always worth a look in the FAQ section I started ages ago. Some usefull stuff in there.

[MaestroTurbo]

If it was me i would remove the vacuum switch and loop a bit of hose in its place.

[G Force]

Hi guys,

Is it just a case of blanking this off/U bending it and then adjusting the idle speed?

Would you say that the above could be the cause? and is the vacuum pump needed on a manual choke setup?:confused:


Cheers then.


The vacuum switch (the bit you call vacuum pump) diaphragm will be faulty causing the engine to run rich all the time.

Because you have a manual choke fitted you don't really need to replace the valve if you do not want to. You have three choices really 1) is to do what maestro turbo suggests and remove the vacuum switch and join together the two pipes that fix it to the carb, then plug up the clear tube or its junction connector. If you do it this way then you could find that you need to keep pulling the choke out further to accelerate when part warm. 2) Renew the vacuum switch and reconnect everything. 3) What I would do is just disconnect the clear tube from the vacuum switch and plug up the end of the clear tube or its junction connector. Doing it this way you should be able to just keep reducing the ammount of choke needed, as normal. You may even find you can reduce the ammount of choke sooner than normal to begin with, giving slightly better economy.;)

What ever you decide to do, once done you should check and reset the CO and idle speeds if neccessary.:)

[G Force]

Actually looking at the plumbing again there is an even simpler way than plugging up the clear pipe. Just remove the clear tube alltogether, then connect the black tube from the manifold (servo take off) to the four way connector where the clear tube was fitted. Then do away with the second tee-piece and connect the pipe from the air cleaner thermac switch to where the short rubber pipe was connecting the tee-piece to the four way connector.:idea:

Zimples:D

[norbert eggcup]

if memory serves, the adv/retard should be connected on its own nearest carb, then the thermac and vacuum units connect to manifold spigot

[G Force]

if memory serves, the adv/retard should be connected on its own nearest carb, then the thermac and vacuum units connect to manifold spigot

No sorry you are wrong there mate. The vacuum pipe that connects to the carb would normally have a connection that looks like an early cars vac advance pipe elbow, such as metro etc. but the pipe from the carb on maestro montego has always run through a 4 ,5 ,6 way junction and never singularly directly to the distributor or ecu.

I should also add that this is an autochoke carb that has been converted to manual choke.