Rear Shock Absorbers

[redmaestro]

Hi All,

I just need a bit of advise on shock absorbers. I took my E'reg EFi to ATS to get them to replace a worn rubber mount on my back of my exhaust (they replaced the lot a few months ago. The tail pipe was resting on the rear bumper/spoiler and was making one heck of a noise as the exhaust vibrated!! Anyways, when they replaced this mount noticed that one rear shock absorber is weeping oil. They told me they should be replaced as a pair, and gave me a quote of £83. all in.

My mate told me this is an easy job to do myself, all I need to do is to buy two new absorbers. This is where I need your help. Where is the best place to get them from and how much approx will they be? Or am I better off getting ATS to do it?

Thanks in advance

Redm

[TurboMG]

Rear shocks can be very dificult to replace, the bottom bolt seizes in the bush making them near on impossible to get out.

Dont you use your rover dealer for parts??

Genuine rover rear shocks are 30 quid trade.

[Liam]

I have heard that the bolts on the shocks can sieze but I changed my rear springs the other weekend and therefore removed the shocks. It was the easiest job I've ever done, had no problems what so ever. You don't even need spring compressors on the back. I'd certainly have ago yourself as you may get lucky like I was. As for parts there have been several sets of shocks on eBay lately a set of four at around £30 for the full set I believe.

[E_T_V]

I managed to get myself a full set for about that on e-bay. just remember that if you're only replacing the rears that you'll have to get the right size (there are 2 I beleive). If you are doing all 4 at once then obviously it won't matter but the ride height might change a little.

[talkingcars]

The turbo and estate models have a much higher ride height than the other versions.

I have changed the rear shocks on my estate (rip) and my MG Maestro, in both cases the bolts were a nightmare and I managed to bend the lower mounting on both cars.

James

[tony]

Originally posted by talkingcars

I have changed the rear shocks on my estate (rip) and my MG Maestro, in both cases the bolts were a nightmare and I managed to bend the lower mounting on both cars.

James [/B]
so there you go everybody a job for the weekend ,whip them bolts out and get some copper grease round them ,you never know .
:)

[J399KGV]

As I am not sure and I wanna be sure, Are MG Maestro 2.0i Shocks Different to the 2.0i EFI Maestro?

Good deal on ebay at the moment

Thanks in advance


Mickey

[Beaker]

If you change all 4 it doesn't make a difference. If you search the forum there is plenty written about it.

We bought a set of 4 from ebay for £25 and I know a few other people have. I think the seller is still doing that deal on there

[skipweasel]

We bought a set of 4 from ebay for £25 and I know a few other people have. I think the seller is still doing that deal on there
Bet they ain't got self-levelling ones for the estate Monty.

[Fast Guy]

They told me they should be replaced as a pair, and gave me a quote of £83. all in.


Funny that, Kwik fit always had a habit of telling me they were leaking oil too. :giveup:

And Charlie browns were insisting on changing them as a pair, until I turned up on the day and said "change the pair of them then" and handed them the lifetime gaurentee at which point they insisted that it would be OK to change one because they were paying not me :censored:

As long as your bottom bolt isn't siezed, it's fairly straight forward. Soak it in wd40 or similar. Keep working it back and forth if it's abit stiff, cos it might shear if you try forcing it off in one go. You'll need a pair of spring compressors tho. And crack the top nut off (ring spanner and allen key) while it's still on the car. ;)

[mgdavid]

>>>>As long as your bottom bolt isn't siezed, it's fairly straight forward. Soak it in wd40 or similar. Keep working it back and forth if it's abit stiff, cos it might shear if you try forcing it off in one go. You'll need a pair of spring compressors tho. And crack the top nut off (ring spanner and allen key) while it's still on the car.
===FG, are you mixing up front and rear? I have never needed compressors for the rears, and also I've never seen them with a hex hole for the Allen key, only on the fronts. :worried:

[Beaker]

And Charlie browns were insisting on changing them as a pair,

Personally I would always change them as a pair, same goes for tyres and brake pads.

[Fast Guy]

When I changed the rears, I needed spring compressors for the ones I took off, but not for the 2" lowered ones I put back on.

The hexy bit I may be getting mixed up, it was along time ago, but thinking about it, how do you undo the top nut then as won't the rod just rotate compete with nut?

[mgdavid]

yep, sometimes the rod will turn . Best to try to loosen the top nuts with the vehicle on the ground, the weight and friction usually keeps it in place. Failing that, jack it up, remove the wheel, and put a pair of mole grips on the rod high up under the wheel arch - you may need to slip the concertina dirt excluder out of the way first.