 Buying Guide
It's no secret that Maestros and Montegos are hardly the most in-demand
model these days. Prices range from cheap to nothing and that means that even
the very best examples rarely go far over four figures ...if you can find one!
Here's what you should be looking for... What Model?
You'll probably already have some idea what you're looking for. If not, get
yourself familiar with the range. There's a Maestro or Montego to suit the needs
of nearly every motorist, from sporty MG to family estate car. To whet your
appetite take a look at the information, specifications and pictures under the 'Showroom' section of this
site. Higher spec cars represent better value for
money and base models are spartan by today's standards, but becoming less common
and worth preserving.
Bodywork
Obviously your main concern when buying a Maestro or Montego will be the state
of the bodywork. You'll do well to find a completely untarnished example
nowadays, but a car with serious structural corrosion may be expensive or even
impossible to put right - and once this menace takes hold properly it can spread
at an alarming rate. Some of the common "rot spots" you'll need to check are
listed below. The plastic bumpers become brittle with age and it's not uncommon
for them to crack. Replacements may be expensive unless you can find one at the
breakers in the right colour.
Corrosion around the top of the front screen is a common
cause of water leaks into the cabin that cannot normally be cured by mastic. To
effect a proper repair the (bonded) screen has to come out.
Tailgate bottom can rust very severely and looks very
unsightly when it does. Also watch out for surface corrosion around the wiper
mount and rear screen.
A common problem on both cars as dirt gets trapped here. A
professional repair and painting will cost in the region of £200. Also lift
carpets and check the tops of the suspension turrets from inside the car for any
evidence of corrosion. Not only will this eventually result in MOT failure but
it won't be easy or cheap to put right.
Also check welds and joins.
These are structural and any holes will result in MOT failure. Repairs
with filler won't do, so if you suspect anything give them a tap!
F - Leading edge of bonnet (Montego) It's not uncommon for this to suffer from
stone chips leaving it vulnerable to rust. Not a major problem in itself, but
unsightly.
G - Panel under grille (Maestro) Tends to suffer from stone chips resulting in
small patches of surface rust.
As dirt accumulates in the folds of the panels it'll
eventually rust its way out sometimes very severely.
Open up the rear doors and check the weld where these
panels join. They can rust right through and if that happens you'll need to get
a new section welded in.
Engines
 The 1.3 "A" series engines are well proven and if maintained properly can run
for high mileages without the need for major attention. They're also easy to
work on and most jobs can be completed at home without the need for special
tools. Probably best avoided in the Montego though, these heavier cars being
better suited to the larger engines.
The 1.6 and 2.0 litre engines also tend to be durable and long lasting.
Generally speaking these engines are excellent, but the Electronic Control Unit
engine management system can cause problems particularly on earlier cars. The
2-litre O-series engine tends to be quite noisy on top by modern standards, and
a slight but definite tick is normal. Valve clearances are controlled by shims,
and specialist dealer tools are required for setting them up correctly. Although
not usually a problem in itself, both engines tend to suffer from oil leaks. The
O-Series in particular suffers as the result of a weakness in the design that
allows oil to weep from the cylinder head gasket in area between the number 4
cylinder and the distributor cap. Oil leakage from the lower part of the
engine/transmission, and especially from the bottom of the bell housing can
indicate failure of the crankshaft oil seal, the replacement of which is an
involved job. If you don't have any history to go on, it's important that the
timing belt is renewed at the earliest opportunity. In the case of the 2-litre
engines engine damage will certainly occur if the belt breaks.
The diesel engine offered from mid-1988 was based on the O-Series unit that
powered the 2-litre petrol cars, so it's susceptible to the same problems. If
properly maintained these engines will continue for very high mileages without
major problems.
Other Mechanicals
Front wheel bearings on Maestros often fail and renewing them can be difficult.
Some Montegos used alloy wheels requiring a metric-sized tyre and these can be
expensive and difficult to get hold of. Many owners simply replace the wheels
with more conventionally sized alloys. Otherwise the mechanics of both cars are
fairly conventional, and therefore relatively easy to work on and obtain parts
for.
Also worth checking are driveshafts, steering components (especially where power
steering is fitted), suspension and CV joints.
Interior & Fittings
 Dashboard rattles are a problem particularly on pre-1986 Maestros with the
original facia, and moulded dashboards can crack after years of exposure to
sunlight. A lot of cars have cloth roof linings that are either torn, sagging or
both. The glue that holds the fabric to its backing seems to weaken with age,
not helped by the effects of condensation, and the only long-term solution to
have it re-trimmed. Lower spec early cars had a vinyl trim that doesn't suffer
from this problem. Otherwise interiors are tough, not to mention comfortable,
and they tend to survive well.
Extras & Electricals
Not surprisingly, there's plenty of scope for things to go wrong in this area in
cars of the age we're dealing with, but the good news is that problems are
usually inexpensive to cure with parts obtained cheaply from breakers. Central
locking is a common problem area and the chances are that if you're looking at a
car so equipped, one or more doors will refuse to work with the rest. This can
either be the result of the failure of the motor or general stiffness that
builds up within the lock mechanism and operating rods over time.
It is not
unusual for the heater unit to fail or refuse to operate on any setting other
than full power. The cause is a simple one, but putting it right will require
removal of the dash. Heater matrix failure is indicated by a pool of green fluid
in the passenger footwell.
Electric window control units can fail (replacement
is a five minute job) and if you're buying one of the particularly rare nowadays
examples equipped with digital instrumentation and the trip computer check
carefully that everything functions correctly. These units can fail prematurely
and because they're not available new obtaining a replacement might not be easy.
SUMMARY: Here's the good news. With price not being an issue you can afford to be picky.
Stick with cars that have obviously been well cared for and with a known history
and you won't go far wrong.
However, unless you're after a particular car and you can afford the
repair/restoration costs or are confident enough to be able to undertake them
yourself, overall condition is crucial. We can't stress this enough. Open every
door and check every corner for rust or shoddy repairs, otherwise it will come
back to haunt you later on. We often hear from people who have bought cars only
to scrap them a few weeks later on realising the full extent of the work
required and the costs involved. Although Maestros and Montegos are cheap to buy
and run, garage labour definately isn't! If you're buying a car that needs work,
you should be prepared for the cost and commitment that comes with it. If you're
keeping the car it will pay off in the end.
Our pick would be the 2-litre MGs for sheer driving enjoyment and effortlessly
keeping up with modern traffic, the 1.3 Maestro Clubman for new drivers or
economical motoring, or any of the durable diesel models.
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